The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

MoneyWellSpent · Oct 1, 2013

wurger said:
Audley actually have the same sole length as the Aldwych, but its heel counter is more curvy as it stick out more, so gives a slighter longer look.

The sole edge width is similar too, again, the Audley toe is very round on the side view, covering the sole edge.

Also, I just realised that the Crockett & Jones Audley shows no stitching along the sole edge, while the Loake Aldwych does, and so does my G&G, JL and EG shoes. Not sure about the technical implications of that?

That's known as a "dress welt." The stitches are concealed on top of the welt in the same manner that they are on the underside of the sole. A channel is opened up for the stitches and is closed down to cover them up when stitching is complete.

Here is an example from Carreducker's bespoke shoe blog: http://carreducker.blogspot.com/2009/07/breaking-news-we-are-now-in-savile-row.html

I am sure C&J uses machines to do theirs, but the appearance is the same in the end.

jrd617 · Oct 1, 2013

wurger said:
many SF members!

Patrick Booth?

The goth ninjas on SWD? (Just kidding)

wurger · Oct 1, 2013

Thanks for that Money! always informative.

funny conclusion from Carreducker's bespoke shoe blog, he prefers to show the stitching as the dress welt gives the shoe a glued sole look!

MoneyWellSpent · Oct 1, 2013

wurger said:
Thanks for that Money! always informative.

funny conclusion from Carreducker's bespoke shoe blog, he prefers to show the stitching as the dress welt gives the shoe a glued sole look!

I almost said that, but then I didn't. I do agree with that though.

green garden · Oct 1, 2013

wurger said:
Thanks for that Money! always informative.

funny conclusion from Carreducker's bespoke shoe blog, he prefers to show the stitching as the dress welt gives the shoe a glued sole look!

MoneyWellSpent said:
I almost said that, but then I didn't. I do agree with that though.

wurger and MWS, thanks for the explanations and comparisons. I think the stitching made me think there was excess sole material in the first place. wurger's pictures are outstanding. Learning a lot from this thread. The dress welt definitely adds to the overall look of refinement. But I'm still going to venture out to try the Aldwych when I replace my beater PAs. I like the chisel toe and looks like a really good value for my purpose.

poorsod · Oct 1, 2013

Repost from awhile back.

poorsod said:
Boring black.

wurger · Oct 1, 2013

G&G Cambridge?

poorsod · Oct 1, 2013

wurger said:
G&G Cambridge?

Bespoke version.

wurger · Oct 1, 2013

Mate, more photos please!

FredAstaire1899 · Oct 2, 2013

wurger said:
Only half sock liner if I understood you correctly, in fact, I don't have a single shoe that has a full sock from the factory, but I always place a full sock in for al my shoes.

And thank you for your kind words.

I agree with what you said about topy whole heartily.

Wurger, what brand/type of full sock do you place inside the shoe? They don't look like the standard tacco insole with leather and rubber like you can buy from Coombs.

wurger · Oct 2, 2013

I normally use Florsheim comfortech insoles, but you need to size up 1/2 to use them, but for EG and G&Gs, their 6.5Es are just right for me, so I just use tacco insoles which makes no difference in sizing.

However, since I am more used to the soft cushion padding, I do find when I am wearing true leather insole, my feet feel the hardness of the sole, so I only wear them on days I don't have to walk much.

wurger · Oct 2, 2013

Btw, FredAstaire1899, how's your AS Armfield?

FredAstaire1899 · Oct 2, 2013

The Armfield's are going great! AFPOS are fantastic, they delivered after 60 hours of making the purchase.

They are indeed a bit shorter than the 337 and a lot shorter than the 363 - but I think that's a better fit for my foot.

I might make my own review of the shoes after a bit of wear.

Do you have any other Alfred Sargent's Wurger?

wurger · Oct 2, 2013

I have pretty much every style in the Exclusive range, haha, plus 2 Bodiley's specials, and 2 Herring specials.

FredAstaire1899 · Oct 2, 2013

Haha wow. How does the fit of the Charlton compare to the Armfield?

The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

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