yes, they both offer very good value for quality, at two different levels.
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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford - Page 19
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I quite like the nice touch of perforation.
My Edward Green Ready to Wear Berkeley Black in 202 last, size UK 6.5E
Purchased from Edwards of Manchester, RRP £550 ext. VAT
Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney
Edited by wurger - 12/5/13 at 4:37am
What is your view on the formality of the punch cap toe versus the traditional straight tip version? Is there a situation where a traditional calfskin straight tip captoe oxford would be appropriate while a punch cap toe oxford would not?
I am closing in on one of these models. It is between an Edward Green captoe (either punch cap toe or the traditional version) and something like the Sid Mashburn version (which is made by Alfred Sargent).
It is apparently made by Alfred Sargent, but I was told that Sid Mashburn shoes are all generally wider than standard English models. After trying on a pair, I agree, but I was wondering if anyone owns these.
1. With a dinner suit - definite rule.
2. In a very traditional business environment, e.g. City of London finance house - more of a "fitting in" thing
http://essentialmanliness.com/post/68792392182/gentlemens-essentials-the-black-cap-toe-oxford (Wurger is now a man with shoes of international renown!)
I believe a dinner suit calls for either opera pumps or a plain toe oxford with no stitch cap at all. I suppose a stitch cap is better than a punch cap, but if you're already not wearing the traditional shoe, I'm not sure how much worse your rule breaking is.
A plain cap is acceptable. But you're right that a plain toe oxford, balmoral or wholecut is better. Opera pumps are a step up, although actual dress pumps are only a fixed requirement for white tie. So it's a baseline, a compromise. But not a breaking of the rules as such.
A more common breaking of the rules would be a derby as a dress shoe, which I think is an absolute no: I see open-laced patent shoes all the time marketed as "tuxedo shoes" in the US, and even the UK. And of course, although I've seen advice on this forum to the contrary, patent leather itself is less proper than well-polished calf. Not wrong, just a bit tacky next to the real thing. Like satin lapels instead of grosgrain - common, fine, but there is a better choice if available. Having said that, I have some patent plain toe oxfords inbound for my new black tie shoes as we speak. My beloved vetoed the pumps...
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