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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford - Page 10

post #136 of 564
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post


But, as wurger has pointed out, the 1880 range offers excellent price:quality in calf.  Very different to Loake Shoemaker or Loake Essentials.  Until I discovered Herring by Alfred Sargent, Loake 1880 offered for me the best price:quality for an everyday entry level (by SF standards) shoe.

haha, so true, we are very small minority out in the real world
post #137 of 564
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post


haha, so true, we are very small minority out in the real world

 

QFT

post #138 of 564
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post
 

 

Also, in observing all of the photos in this thread so far, one thing has struck me about the Park Avenue.  The Park Avenue (as I was expecting) received the most comments about being inelegant.  However, there is one unique aspect of it that actually slims it down when compared to the others, in my eyes.  The eyelets don't fan out as they go from the top to the bottom like some of the other manufacturer's do.  The fanning out can be well done and add to the overall flowing lines of the shoe sometimes, but in my opinion it isn't always done well.  In fact, in some models, it is the lacing that would keep me from ever purchasing the model, because it looks blobby.  Also, the Park Avenue has the eyelets closer to the gap than any of the other models.  Overall, this seems to give a slimmer impression when comparing the head-on photos of the lacing area of the shoes.  Obviously, some of this is immediately offset by the triple stitched vamp and the 360 welt, but that's a separate issue.

 

Just some observations.

 Good observation, MWS.  The overall silhouette of the Park Avenue is actually fairly sleek for AE.  The blobbiness problem comes from the combination of six eyelets, the placement of the toe cap line and the protuding welt.  Even though I've bought black captoes that I like better, I still keep my Park Avenues because they are a solid workhorse shoe that is well constructed.

post #139 of 564
Great comparison thread but I noticed these shoes are rather small at size 7 which makes a lot of them look rather short and stubby... my Park Ave in 10.5E looks much better balanced especially when there are the 6 eyelets which balance out the overall shape of the shoe.

Perhaps shoemakers should put in less eyelets for smaller shoes?

In other words, avoid the Park Ave if you have small feet.
post #140 of 564
Thread Starter 
Shoes sizes go up somewhat proportionally, while AE PA would balance out a bit better in a larger size, it is from its overall design features such as 360 welt, 6 eyelets, 3 row stitching, circular round toe which in turn lead to a short cap; that lead to the comments its getting.
post #141 of 564
Nice collection! You need to add a pair of Saint Crispins now. 😀
post #142 of 564
Quote:
Originally Posted by mebiuspower View Post

Great comparison thread but I noticed these shoes are rather small at size 7 which makes a lot of them look rather short and stubby... my Park Ave in 10.5E looks much better balanced especially when there are the 6 eyelets which balance out the overall shape of the shoe.

Perhaps shoemakers should put in less eyelets for smaller shoes?

In other words, avoid the Park Ave if you have small feet.

I wear size 12 and my Park Avenues look stubby.
post #143 of 564

Wurger, thanks for the side by side compare.  Very informative indeed.  I am very interested in the Aldwych as an alternative to the PA.  I have PAs that I use as "beater" dress shoes for work.  The shape of the Aldwych vs. the PA is very appealing for me.  And if you say quality wise they are the same or better, then I may try it.  

 

I know I can source the Aldwych via the online stores.   Unfortunately, I have very limited experience with UK sizing.  My only point of reference is a Church Consul I tried in the past.  I am a TTS 8.5C US.  I can wear a US 8D if the manufacturers don't offer widths.  I tried the 7.5F Church and it was OK, if not a bit wide.  I think the Consul is on the Church 173 last.  I was wondering if you (or anyone) had fit experience with the Consul and can comment.

 

Thanks.


Edited by green garden - 9/27/13 at 10:41am
post #144 of 564
Thread Starter 
Haven't had Churches, but I did try them on before, 7.5F would be your size in Loake, and most English shoemakers,
post #145 of 564

Well done wurger. Another blazing thread you have started.... subscribed! 

post #146 of 564
Thread Starter 
Where were you last week? Hopefully other members continue this on
post #147 of 564

Bit busy with the new job... driving every day but more importantly, happier. I see you picked up a G&G... :cheers:

post #148 of 564
Thread Starter 
Best looking pair I have
post #149 of 564
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Subscribed!

From the initial picture I would rate them, for their looks alone, as the following:
EG > JLP > G&G = C&J > Loake > AS > Tricker's > AE

The EG Chelsea could be the perfect black shoe for his lovely last and his swan neck, if only his heel would not be as ugly.
JLP comes close second for the second nicest last but the best heel.
G&G and C&J are a bit too chiseled for my liking but overall very good looking shoes.
Loake to me is the best value for money in both looks and build.
I am a bit underwhelmed by the look of the AS but it could be due to the shoe trees which seem to be too big for this pair? I have seen pictures of the Armfield which looked lovely.
I would neither wear the Tricker's nor the AE, I think they look blobby and not elegant at all.

Those are C&J Audley and AS Armfield, right?
I think you should add the following:
C&J Connaught, Carmina on Forst/Rain/Robert last, Meermin on Hiro/Olfe last, Vass F last

Sorry, I think I must have not read your post after your edit.

What do you mean by the EG heel been ugly.

and the AS is in the right size, I have 3 pairs of AS 109 6.5 lasted trees.

Tricker's Regent actually has quite a curvy asymmetric last, but it's a slightly shorter and wider shoe, could be the angle of the shot.
Edited by wurger - 9/27/13 at 3:47pm
post #150 of 564
I don't think Cheaney has been represented in this thread yet...

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