The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

IMHO, Alfred Sargent Exclusive line has the highest points when comes to a balance of quality, design and value.



wurger said:

AS only has Exclusive and Handgrade now

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I meant for Herring

Herrings lower lines are made by Loake, May be Barker and Cheaney as well ?

Just to be clear, since Herring sales many shoes, I think Balfour is referring to Herring Charles II.

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/alfred sargent

wurger said:

Just to be clear, since Herring sales many shoes, I think Balfour is referring to Herring Charles II.

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/alfred sargent

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That's right.

There are two Herring lines by AS: some of the Herring Premiers (the lower priced ones, not at Exclusive level); Herring 1966 (which I assume are to Exclusive level, although none of the designs appeal to me).

I love the look of the Armfield! I'm excited to see the side-by-side width comparison with the Audley so I can finally pull the trigger! Please but me out of my misery ASAP wurger!

It looks to me that the Armfield might be your most worn pair as well? With the prospect of free shipping and free lasted trees, I hope AS expand their range.



FredAstaire1899 said:

I love the look of the Armfield!  I'm excited to see the side-by-side width comparison with the Audley so I can finally pull the trigger!  Please but me out of my misery ASAP wurger! 

It looks to me that the Armfield might be your most worn pair as well?  With the prospect of free shipping and free lasted trees, I hope AS expand their range.

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The Armfield is wider at the ball of the feet, but narrower at the toe due to its round toe last design.

Armfield is one of my earlier purchases, but I don't wear it much due to rotation.

Only 2 more days to go, Fred.

wurger said:

The Armfield is wider at the ball of the feet, but narrower at the toe due to its round toe last design.

Armfield is one of my earlier purchases, but I don't wear it much due to rotation.

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This is my concern. I have a C&J on the 363, which is their curved Handgrade last, and while it is wider in the ball than the 337, it is a little bit too narrow in the toe box.

In the same size, the 363 is 1 cm longer than the 337, and the excess leather tends to dig back in the vamp. I'm hoping that the Armfield isn't any longer than the Audley.

it's definitely a shorter shoe the armfield is when comparing audley.

Once you've got the pics side by side I'll be able to estimate where my pinky will sit in the Armfield - but I think it should be OK.

Do the AS's have a full sock liner?

Thanks for all of your help Wurger - it's very much appreciated - trying to find the right cap toe Oxford is something I've been doing for over a year. Your photographic comparison of shoes is also the best I've seen on SF or Ask Andy. For me, I think it's elucidated what many have thought for a while - the VFM on C&Js is not what it once was. You've also offered solid evidence of what I've said for a while - sole protector do nothing to detract from the appearance of a shoe - in fact, it stops the edges from getting tattered and therefore could be seen to enhance the appearance of the shoe.

Only half sock liner if I understood you correctly, in fact, I don't have a single shoe that has a full sock from the factory, but I always place a full sock in for al my shoes.

And thank you for your kind words.

I agree with what you said about topy whole heartily.

Tricker’s

Tricker’s was founded in 1829 by Joseph Barltrop, making it one of the oldest surviving shoemakers in the UK and it remains to be a family business run by the Bartrop family.

The name “Tricker” appeared when Walter James Barltrop, son of Joseph Barltrop, married Claire Louise Tricker in 1862. At that time they decided to change the name from Barltrop, which was thought to be not as commercial a name as Tricker. Tricker’s is the holder of the Royal Warrant from His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales.

Tricker’s is famous for its heavy brogue shoes and boots for country use, and does private runs for various vendors in different materials, finishing and colours. Tricker's now has a large market for both men's and ladies fashion shoes, the majority of which goes overseas. Export is the “life blood” of the company now and approximately 70% of all the shoes are exported throughout the world.

My Tricker’s 1829 Regent Black in 4537 last, size UK 6.5 fitting 5
Purchased from Pediwear, RRP £287.50 ext. VAT
Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney















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OliverGauffe said:

I've said it before and I'll say it again, for black dress shoes, I have taken  liking to Hudson. They are affordable, and they have that "not-your-grandfather's-black-shoe" kinda look, while not looking like a jackass. They have a range of more eccentric to more classic... I have the Livingston model, they have become old standbys.

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****.