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REEVES OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD - Page 83

post #1231 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

I think the cashmere would be especially nice in a sportcoat. I'm making up a heavier purple cashmere into a DB overcoat for myself at the moment, I'll put up some pictures of it when it's done.

I'm not sure that the pink suit, and photo, can ever be topped or should ever try to be. I'm looking forward to seeing this one, though.
post #1232 of 1312
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post #1233 of 1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

I'm not sure that the pink suit, and photo, can ever be topped or should ever try to be. I'm looking forward to seeing this one, though.

I think thats about as far as I'm willing to go! Wouldn't mind something in primary yellow or red though in the right context, probably not for myself though.
post #1234 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Is that for yourself or a client? Either way, it's very nice. I'd never really considered purple before but these deeper shades of it are making up so nicely.
post #1235 of 1312
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Double post.
post #1236 of 1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

[/SPOILER]

Is that for yourself or a client? Either way, it's very nice. I'd never really considered purple before but these deeper shades of it are making up so nicely.

Yes it is for me. I have a lot of things made for myself because well, I do like clothes but I also do it to experiment with different cloths, colors and styles. I think making clothes up for people only gives you a limited experience of a garment. The real experience is wearing say that silk and linen suit over the summer, does it wrinkle a lot? is it fragile does it stain easily? If I have a suit made in a cloth myself I can talk with more authority about its characteristics in "real life". Sometimes I make things up for myself that don't turn out so good in which case I don't recommend them.

I have met many tailors that make up a lot of bespoke but don't really wear it themselves in a broad sense, I even know some that don't even own one suit, I think this is a bit like a chef not sampling food, theres no way you can get a real picture of how a garment performs unless you wear it for some time.
post #1237 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Just got a nice morning suit finished up, I'll put up some pictures tomorrow.
post #1238 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Yes it is for me. I have a lot of things made for myself because well, I do like clothes but I also do it to experiment with different cloths, colors and styles. I think making clothes up for people only gives you a limited experience of a garment. The real experience is wearing say that silk and linen suit over the summer, does it wrinkle a lot? is it fragile does it stain easily? If I have a suit made in a cloth myself I can talk with more authority about its characteristics in "real life". Sometimes I make things up for myself that don't turn out so good in which case I don't recommend them.

I have met many tailors that make up a lot of bespoke but don't really wear it themselves in a broad sense, I even know some that don't even own one suit, I think this is a bit like a chef not sampling food, theres no way you can get a real picture of how a garment performs unless you wear it for some time.

It is very helpful to see the samples you have made up and to get your opinions on the fabrics.  The seersucker suit you made this summer is on my list for next year, pretty much because I saw it and it is amazing otherwise I doubt I would have given it a second look in a swatch book.  I like seeing a full garment as I don't always have the ability to know what a suit will look like in my mind's eye from a cloth sample.  Sometimes I love the way a swatch looks but I know it wont look the same as I think it will when it is a full suit.

 

Your expertise in knowing the fabrics and seeing the bigger picture so to speak is very useful and quite possibly underappreciated in the entire process.  Having a suit fit is quite possible one of life's great revelations (in the sense of feeling your best) but fabric is a huge part of the experience.  The fabric options really distinguish bespoke in my opinion as you rarely see the great materials available even in the higher end RTW excluding Kiton, Attolini et al.

 

Your opinions on fabric are very helpful, definitely like reading what you have to say.  I know you are quite partial to Dormeuil and mohair in particular, what do you think about the mohair offerings from other mills? Anything new and interesting for winter offerings?

post #1239 of 1312
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post #1240 of 1312
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Morning suit



post #1241 of 1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

It is very helpful to see the samples you have made up and to get your opinions on the fabrics.  The seersucker suit you made this summer is on my list for next year, pretty much because I saw it and it is amazing otherwise I doubt I would have given it a second look in a swatch book.  I like seeing a full garment as I don't always have the ability to know what a suit will look like in my mind's eye from a cloth sample.  Sometimes I love the way a swatch looks but I know it wont look the same as I think it will when it is a full suit.

Your expertise in knowing the fabrics and seeing the bigger picture so to speak is very useful and quite possibly underappreciated in the entire process.  Having a suit fit is quite possible one of life's great revelations (in the sense of feeling your best) but fabric is a huge part of the experience.  The fabric options really distinguish bespoke in my opinion as you rarely see the great materials available even in the higher end RTW excluding Kiton, Attolini et al.

Your opinions on fabric are very helpful, definitely like reading what you have to say.  I know you are quite partial to Dormeuil and mohair in particular, what do you think about the mohair offerings from other mills? Anything new and interesting for winter offerings?

Well Mohair is quite a niche cloth in many respects. Loro Piana does not have a mohair book at all, Scabal has a small selection and so does Zegna but really theres only Dormeuil doing mohair in a big way, but its always been one of their signature cloths.

I have looked at some mohairs from less known English mills and the quality isn't there, lots of poly blends, I am quite partial to Taylor and lodge mohair and use it a lot in dinner suits but they do not supply direct cut lengths to tailors, If I ever did production for wholesale though I would talk to them.

Fall/winter? Im waiting myself to see really, I have some new Scabal which is rather businesslike (lots of greys) and some new Tweeds in heavier weights but waiting on Zegna, Loro Piana and Dormeuil which should arrive next week. I am going to predict that we will see a lot of flannel and wool/silk blends. New colors coming through will be brown, burgundy, purple and green. I think we will also see a lot of sport coat cloths.
post #1242 of 1312
What's your view on mohair blends from VBC?
post #1243 of 1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post

What's your view on mohair blends from VBC?

VBC?
post #1244 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

VBC?

http://www.vitalebarberiscanonico.com/
post #1245 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post

http://www.vitalebarberiscanonico.com/

Oh I just call them Barberis. I do not carry them at the moment, I just don't think they can't really compete with the likes of Lesser, Dormeuil, Zegna, Loro Piana and Scabal. Of course they come in at a lower price point than those houses, not bad cloth at all but for my product it doesn't really fit. Having said that these companies have peaks and troughs, they have good collections and bad ones and go through changes so I do not rule out carrying them in the future. Dormeuil, my favorite cloth house, went in for polyester in a big way at one point.
Edited by David Reeves - 7/22/16 at 5:22pm
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