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REEVES OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD - Page 73

post #1081 of 1315
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Yes the only time I have seen it is with a single breasted vest, otherwise I think visually it would be too much and would be rather impractical and uncomfortable with so many buttons and overlap of cloth.

I think you have to look at the synergy between vest and coat on every suit although for me its not something that is agonized over, its more intuitive. With my DB I went for a slightly higher buttoning vest and kept the button placement and break on the coat fairly classic. The rationale being for the coat to be open when worn with the vest, the vest makes it look put together but with the suit being linen and the coat being open you end up with a looser fitting and layered garment which is good for hot climates.

David,

 

Would any adjustments need to be made if it were a flannel double breasted suit?  Seems like there would be a lot of fabric in there to keep a nice slim silhouette.  Or do you advise against it with certain fabrics.  Every time I put on my two piece suits, I pretty much always wish they were three piece.  Maybe we should make that a rule for me from now on.

post #1082 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thin White Duke View Post

Frank Nitti in 'The Untouchables' film.
Might be the only time I can recall seeing a DB with a waistcoat that I really liked.

Yeah thats the idea.
post #1083 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

David,

Would any adjustments need to be made if it were a flannel double breasted suit?  Seems like there would be a lot of fabric in there to keep a nice slim silhouette.  Or do you advise against it with certain fabrics.  Every time I put on my two piece suits, I pretty much always wish they were three piece.  Maybe we should make that a rule for me from now on.

Nah. I mean the vest is a very closely fitted garment and even using a heavy cloth its going to be more like a light piece of knitwear rather than something like a "heavy" piece of knitwear that really will affect the fit. The effects on the silhouette would really be negligible and if it was a little too bulky then we would just let the coat out 1/4" or so at the fitting.

I got your lining ordered not ordered your cloth yet, you want a vest for that chalkstripe DB? Mind you I would have to get more lining.
post #1084 of 1315
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Nah. I mean the vest is a very closely fitted garment and even using a heavy cloth its going to be more like a light piece of knitwear rather than something like a "heavy" piece of knitwear that really will affect the fit. The effects on the silhouette would really be negligible and if it was a little too bulky then we would just let the coat out 1/4" or so at the fitting.

I got your lining ordered not ordered your cloth yet, you want a vest for that chalkstripe DB? Mind you I would have to get more lining.

I say lets do it!  

 

My biggest suit regret, is not having that navy mohair single breasted made as a 3 piece, and I remember you distinctly telling me to do it.

post #1085 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

I say lets do it!  

My biggest suit regret, is not having that navy mohair single breasted made as a 3 piece, and I remember you distinctly telling me to do it.

SOLD! Ill put it on your slate .
post #1086 of 1315
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


SOLD! Ill put it on your slate .

Perfect, can't wait to see it.  I guess I really need to see those new spring books, although Im not ready to go white suit just yet lol

post #1087 of 1315
Thread Starter 
SCABAL COLIBRI CLOTH REVIEW

"Colibri" described by Scabal in their own words:

True to its avian namesake, the award winning Colibri collection is alive with color and energy.

Including 18 articles that each experiment with color, weave or sheen. Gun club checks, jacquard patterns and checks are just some of the designs available, with others so innovative they have not yet been named.

Such a colorful collection is ideal for the informal connoisseur who wants something different, and the fashion forward man who enjoys style experimentation.




Well….let’s dive in shall we?

This is an interesting book that unfortunately does not photograph too well on my iphone, too much color variation going on and this is a strength and a weakness of this rather flamboyant and whimsical collection, its amazing looking but ironically may not translate too well on camera.




After showing this new book to a few clients here initial reaction is negative at first when looked at perhaps in a purely modern commercial context, but when you frame these as rather fun and retro cloths, that perhaps Johhny Carson or a 60s or 70s playboy may wear people start to see the appeal.
These are cloths which would be great for a host of a party or to wear at a fancy cocktail bar to many this may seem like a frivolous use for bespoke tailoring but I am always of the mind that we are in fact doing style here and style is all about who you are and your lifestyle and your choices.



I have seen (and encouraged) a real trend to not just confine bespoke tailoring to work or important meetings and events in the past few years. Usually this has meant dressing down bespoke and the utility of tweeds, moleskins and corduroys but maybe the next frontier is bringing fine(er) cloths into our leisure time as well? Maybe its about what we wear on a Friday or Saturday night and this is about refinement, sophistication but also fun and of course confidence.

My only real critisim of this book outside of its rather niche context is that it sometimes does not go far enough, we have quite a few repeat patterns here in different color ways and at 18 cloths the book is not quite the bold offering it could be but I can understand why.




Colibri is not for everyone, its rather advanced and will probably be for the client of considerable means who has his” basic” Bespoke wardrobe covered, nothing wrong with that though. I think it is great that cloth houses are taking risks with cloths like this rather than going for the safe route of the mythical all year round, fits all needs, commercial cloth with colors and patterns like we see everywhere else.

Colibri is 100% wool made in England and weighs in at 250 grams or 8.8 ozs
My personal rating is a solid 3 out of 5 stars, this is brought down from 4 because of the limited nature of the collection but also because there are a couple of weaker designs in here in my opinion which bring down the overall rating and stand out especially, again, in such a small offering, still a very interesting book and worth a look.


Edited by David Reeves - 2/9/16 at 11:13am
post #1088 of 1315
Great write up David, it is very helpful to hear your perspective on fabric.

I'm assuming this particular book doesn't lend itself to suits?

Are you planning on making a series out of this, there's lots of different houses id be interested in hearing your opinions on their benefits and individual styles.
post #1089 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

Great write up David, it is very helpful to hear your perspective on fabric.

I'm assuming this particular book doesn't lend itself to suits?

Are you planning on making a series out of this, there's lots of different houses id be interested in hearing your opinions on their benefits and individual styles.

I may do, it's somerhing that could be ongoing as well because every season several new books come out.
post #1090 of 1315
That top Scabal fabric is pretty cool. I can picture it really dressed down with with a white linen shirt, no tie.
post #1091 of 1315
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

When you make up a three-piece double breasted suit, is the waistcoat usually also double breasted or single breasted? Is there a convention for that? A double-double sounds like it would be a lot of fabric there in front. Also, if you're making up a double breasted suit with a waistcoat, does that affect how you would cut the jacket, perhaps to reveal more of the waistcoat?

Yes the only time I have seen it is with a single breasted vest, otherwise I think visually it would be too much and would be rather impractical and uncomfortable with so many buttons and overlap of cloth.

I think you have to look at the synergy between vest and coat on every suit although for me its not something that is agonized over, its more intuitive. With my DB I went for a slightly higher buttoning vest and kept the button placement and break on the coat fairly classic. The rationale being for the coat to be open when worn with the vest, the vest makes it look put together but with the suit being linen and the coat being open you end up with a looser fitting and layered garment which is good for hot climates.

How I do it - DB on DB
bigstar[1].gif

post #1092 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

How I do it - DB on DB
bigstar[1].gif

Have you got any pictures of the coat undone? Do you think it works well for you?
post #1093 of 1315
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

How I do it - DB on DB
bigstar[1].gif

Have you got any pictures of the coat undone? Do you think it works well for you?

Well, one is not supposed to unbutton a DB ever, except in the presence of your valet, wife and/or mistress - so all I got is a pic of open DB with another waistcoat or the DB waistcoat with another coat!

How does it work? - just fine, you normally say that the wearing of waistcoats were due to former times colder indoor tempertures, but they were worn in summer and even in the tropics - see Poirot in the desert for examble - mine are slipped and backless, however!
bigstar[1].gif




Photo: Journal of Style http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/
post #1094 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

Have you got any pictures of the coat undone? Do you think it works well for you?

Well, one is not supposed to unbutton a DB ever, except in the presence of your valet, wife and/or mistress - so all I got is a pic of open DB with another waistcoat or the DB waistcoat with another coat!

How does it work? - just fine, you normally say that the wearing of waistcoats were due to former times colder indoor tempertures, but they were worn in summer and even in the tropics - see Poirot in the desert for examble - mine are slipped and backless, however!
bigstar[1].gif




Photo: Journal of Style http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/

Mind you lets not forget that Poirot even of his time was a rather eccentric and dandy character probably not how most people dressed even then. One interesting convention of that period was that linen should only be worn on holiday, are you familiar with Solbiati?
post #1095 of 1315
Thread Starter 
Reeves MTO Fresco suits?

Been thinking of doing a limited MTO offering with Fresco for the summer, maybe a color way of your choice and some styling options but in "stock sizes".

Would anyone be interested in something like this? price wise I am thinking 1750 with a 50% deposit before we start the production run and delivery before June to cover you over the summer.

PM or email me at david@davidreevesbespoke.com
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