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REEVES OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD - Page 72

post #1066 of 1312
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Rain stripe cloth H Lesser.

post #1067 of 1312
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post #1068 of 1312
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Fitting from yesterday.



post #1069 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

What is the fabric here, is this lightweight?

post #1070 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

What is the fabric here, is this lightweight?

No its a tweed. Its not finished though and the vest back is just a "try on", the real vest back will be put on later and pressed properly.
post #1071 of 1312

Enjoyed reading your Fall Retrospective.  Your work looks beautiful.  Definitely out of my reach, price wise, but I wanted to say I admire your work and enjoy looking at it.

 

Love the H Lesser Rain stripe cloth.  

 

Are you seeing any sort of a move towards higher rise trousers? I'm a fan of a high front rise, as it works for my body shape.  By "high rise" I mean 13.5" to 14" in the front and preferably having double pleats.  For me, trousers like that are the most comfortable thing I've ever worn.

post #1072 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


No its a tweed. Its not finished though and the vest back is just a "try on", the real vest back will be put on later and pressed properly.

David, it is possible I am making a mistake but I meant the white suit on the form is that tweed?

post #1073 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

David, it is possible I am making a mistake but I meant the white suit on the form is that tweed?

Oh sorry, I did not click the spoiler image. That is a "winter white" suit made from Scabal Ascona which I would describe as being like a slightly lighter and more refined cotton "moleskin". The weight is 12.6 ounces so a little on the heavier side.

I do have access to a couple of white tweeds but so far have not used any.
post #1074 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaintSplattered View Post

Enjoyed reading your Fall Retrospective.  Your work looks beautiful.  Definitely out of my reach, price wise, but I wanted to say I admire your work and enjoy looking at it.

Love the H Lesser Rain stripe cloth.  

Are you seeing any sort of a move towards higher rise trousers? I'm a fan of a high front rise, as it works for my body shape.  By "high rise" I mean 13.5" to 14" in the front and preferably having double pleats.  For me, trousers like that are the most comfortable thing I've ever worn.

Thank you very much.

I like higher rise trousers and I encourage them here, but I am not seeing them hitting mainstream.
post #1075 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Oh sorry, I did not click the spoiler image. That is a "winter white" suit made from Scabal Ascona which I would describe as being like a slightly lighter and more refined cotton "moleskin". The weight is 12.6 ounces so a little on the heavier side.

I do have access to a couple of white tweeds but so far have not used any.

Ok got it, I had a feeling you were talking about the other post. I thought the white suit was something for spring/summer. Scabal Ascona, that is a new one to me, you're a wizard with the fabrics.  I know the thought of a three piece in the summer is a bit incongruous given the desire for less fabric, not more i.e. the vest but I still like the idea of looking like a bad ass in the heat.

post #1076 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

Ok got it, I had a feeling you were talking about the other post. I thought the white suit was something for spring/summer. Scabal Ascona, that is a new one to me, you're a wizard with the fabrics.  I know the thought of a three piece in the summer is a bit incongruous given the desire for less fabric, not more i.e. the vest but I still like the idea of looking like a bad ass in the heat.

I generally make up suits as three pieces for myself it's a good force multiplier because it's almost like having two suits. I have a DB three piece white linen suit for summer and I am going to do another this summer in a single breasted version, I could get addicted to white suits for sure.
post #1077 of 1312
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


I have a DB three piece white linen suit for summer and I am going to do another this summer in a single breasted version, I could get addicted to white suits for sure.

When you make up a three-piece double breasted suit, is the waistcoat usually also double breasted or single breasted? Is there a convention for that? A double-double sounds like it would be a lot of fabric there in front. Also, if you're making up a double breasted suit with a waistcoat, does that affect how you would cut the jacket, perhaps to reveal more of the waistcoat?

post #1078 of 1312
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

When you make up a three-piece double breasted suit, is the waistcoat usually also double breasted or single breasted? Is there a convention for that? A double-double sounds like it would be a lot of fabric there in front. Also, if you're making up a double breasted suit with a waistcoat, does that affect how you would cut the jacket, perhaps to reveal more of the waistcoat?

Yes the only time I have seen it is with a single breasted vest, otherwise I think visually it would be too much and would be rather impractical and uncomfortable with so many buttons and overlap of cloth.

I think you have to look at the synergy between vest and coat on every suit although for me its not something that is agonized over, its more intuitive. With my DB I went for a slightly higher buttoning vest and kept the button placement and break on the coat fairly classic. The rationale being for the coat to be open when worn with the vest, the vest makes it look put together but with the suit being linen and the coat being open you end up with a looser fitting and layered garment which is good for hot climates.
post #1079 of 1312
Thread Starter 
This is the white linen DB but without the vest btw.

post #1080 of 1312
Frank Nitti in 'The Untouchables' film.
Might be the only time I can recall seeing a DB with a waistcoat that I really liked.
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