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DAVID REEVES BESPOKE OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD - Page 26

post #376 of 764
I have head of this splitting, too. I haven't as much mohair experience as David by far but I have never had a problem either. I don't think the claim was about jobbers or the like. I think it was referring to older, 100% mohair. Everything I have is a mohair wool blend for that reason. With Cape Kid having the highest mohair content at 60% kid mohair.
post #377 of 764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I have head of this splitting, too. I haven't as much mohair experience as David by far but I have never had a problem either. I don't think the claim was about jobbers or the like. I think it was referring to older, 100% mohair. Everything I have is a mohair wool blend for that reason. With Cape Kid having the highest mohair content at 60% kid mohair.

Just really thinking about what could cause the splitting like that, but it could very well be that the cloth was old and dried out causing the fibres to be brittle, if the cloth was made from short rather than long fibers this could be a problem as well. Must admit I don't think I have made anything in 100% Mohair, but I have made things quite often in a 90% mohair.
post #378 of 764
Who makes the super high mohair content cloth you used (90%)? I have never seen it, though I also never have looked.
Have you used cape kid? From what I can tell, it is your kind of cloth. Very lightweight, very slick and shiny )but also dry looking) and has a very fine feel. I should get another one.
post #379 of 764
I even worry about blend, say something is 20% mohair that to me means one out of every five threads is susceptible to breaking. Whether the garment is still whole or not you're going to have broken fibers.

The breaking of mohair does make sense to me, think of how sharp the creases get and such, can probably only take so much. I always think of a dried out twig snapping under pressure whereas it would simply bend otherwise.
post #380 of 764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Who makes the super high mohair content cloth you used (90%)? I have never seen it, though I also never have looked.
Have you used cape kid? From what I can tell, it is your kind of cloth. Very lightweight, very slick and shiny )but also dry looking) and has a very fine feel. I should get another one.

Dormeuil does a 90%

I have a cape kidd book at home but it isnt the kind of cloth I would generally use, I would typically use Dormeuil, Scabal or Taylor and Lodge, Much nicer quality and finish.
post #381 of 764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I even worry about blend, say something is 20% mohair that to me means one out of every five threads is susceptible to breaking. Whether the garment is still whole or not you're going to have broken fibers.

The breaking of mohair does make sense to me, think of how sharp the creases get and such, can probably only take so much. I always think of a dried out twig snapping under pressure whereas it would simply bend otherwise.

Nah, you talkin crazy man.....
post #382 of 764
Thread Starter 
Tailcoat fitting

post #383 of 764
Thread Starter 
Forward fitting size 34 chest, height 6 ft

post #384 of 764
I thought I was skinny...
post #385 of 764
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Drop 10 fitting, Athletic build, Dormeuil Tonik Mohair. Client is a size 45 chest.



I will be lowering the button stance, lowering the vest break, the client doesn't like the roping so that gets changed to a natural shoulder.

Fitting wearing tee shirt?
post #386 of 764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Fitting wearing tee shirt?

I have overcome greater adversity.
post #387 of 764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I thought I was skinny...

Hes a bit younger than you clee wink.gif
post #388 of 764
I've always found the biggest challenge with a "drop 10" client is they either want to show off their fitness, in which case you have to talk them out of an ill-proportioned result, or they want to hide it all together and you have to give shape to an empty sack.

Looks like you've got that balance spot on, masculine without either of the above issues.
post #389 of 764
For that particular client it looks like the chest is a bit tight as there is some bowing. I'd prefer to the collar and lapels to cover more of the chest more like it appears on the athletic client in the 3 piece fitting.
post #390 of 764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

For that particular client it looks like the chest is a bit tight as there is some bowing. I'd prefer to the collar and lapels to cover more of the chest more like it appears on the athletic client in the 3 piece fitting.

Difficult though, here we have a relatively wide neck and shoulders in relation to the very slim chest and body. If anything the chest is built up, the suit is mainly hanging from the shoulders and the structure is giving him shape. With the Athletic client the suit is the opposite he's going for that Daniel Craig look (I suspect) the suit is quite close everywhere, except actually, in the waist area as more suppression there would look rather strange.
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