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DAVID REEVES BESPOKE OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD - Page 2

post #16 of 685
What is the drop of the client for whom you made that (fantastic worship2.gif) jacket for, the one with the caption about no photoshop and a filter?
post #17 of 685
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

The Bespoke involves patterns being made and stored and a lot of handwork, its a high end suit made in a local union shop. Generally I do not do a raw try on with this make, although I do fittings starting with a slip on fitting. I use cloths like Dormeuil Amadeus, Loro Piana Tasmanian and H Lesser as standard at this price point.

The Top maker is the best garment my company can make and is comparable to a high end Savile Row bespoke garment. These suits are made locally by bench tailors I work with (they usually work from home). Everything is hand stitched except the long seams. Each suit takes two weeks of skilled labor to produce involving several try ons, I allocate a particular cutter and tailor to each client to create the best result, so for example I would give the linen or silk suit to my Italian tailor. There is access to even more luxurious cloths at the base price of Top maker.

So there is no inherent difference if the chest piece, lapels, and sleeves are stitched and inserted by hand. The top maker is created by artisans vs a factory hand made suit. I'm thinking the regular bespoke or custom is just as good if there is a raw try-on.
post #18 of 685
I'm not trying to knock your product but your client looks good in the regular bespoke model. I can't see a need to go even higher if you nailed the fit and there is significant amount of handwork.
post #19 of 685
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

What is the drop of the client for whom you made that (fantastic worship2.gif) jacket for, the one with the caption about no photoshop and a filter?

I think thats a regular drop but he has rather square, broad shoulders.

Here is a chap with a drop 11 waist and how I handled it with the bespoke make. He's a tricky fit obviously so I decided to do a try on fitting.





looking good, just have to press and finish and alter that left sleeve, the broad chest is causing some slight buckling which I have to fix.



I took these from my instagram so theres filters, but again no photoshopping

Cloth is 8 oz Dormeuil Mohair.

Here is the suit in the "wild" it was made for SF member Candyspan:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/329568/official-wedding-attire-question-answer-picture-thread/840#post_6572262
Edited by David Reeves - 9/15/13 at 12:24pm
post #20 of 685
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

I'm not trying to knock your product but your client looks good in the regular bespoke model. I can't see a need to go even higher if you nailed the fit and there is significant amount of handwork.

Quite right and you may think that, whatever I take on though I will get the fit right, for me thats just a prerequisite even with the MTM.

If I cant do the job with MTM I would recommend Bespoke and then if your not listening I would just refuse the commission rather than make a product that is below par. The Top maker has superior handwork, shaping, pressing and finishing so it creates more finesse in the garment, they both fit immaculately but the Top maker is just a better made suit all round. How much better is it? well its hard to quantify especially when your talking about that finesse. If you really want to get into it, as just one example; yes the regular bespoke has hand stitched buttonholes but the Top Maker has 60 stitches in one of them as opposed to 30 so the work is finer. The whole thing with Top Maker is just to make the best so theres no time or expense spared. Things like pattern matching is taken to crazy levels as well. For example on a plaid the chest matches up with the lapel:



This is like real authentic Savile Row style tailoring.
post #21 of 685
Thanks for the clarification.
post #22 of 685
Thread Starter 
post #23 of 685
Nice work on that mohair, David. Looks very good.
post #24 of 685
Thread Starter 
post #25 of 685
Living in England, I'm never going to a customer of David's but I love the look of the various pieces he's shown us on SF over the years. Glad you're an affiliate of the site, and best of luck with it all!
post #26 of 685
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

Living in England, I'm never going to a customer of David's but I love the look of the various pieces he's shown us on SF over the years. Glad you're an affiliate of the site, and best of luck with it all!

Oh I don't know about that, wouldn't mind opening up a shop on the Row someday wink.gif
post #27 of 685
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Nice...
post #28 of 685
Fitting LeBron must have been entertaining ...
post #29 of 685
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Fitting LeBron must have been entertaining ...

He was actually quite quiet, polite and down to business. I had to remake his trousers because I underestimated how big his thighs were, but he didn't know that.....well, if he reads style forum now he does.
post #30 of 685
I figured he'd actually be decent to work with personally, from most accounts. I was thinking of things like having to remake the trousers. That has to be a fairly unusual physique to deal with.
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