VASS and Epaulet MTO & Group Buy Thread

Why do they only stitch the toe of the dainite sole?

Mike/Matt: Can you remind us of the stock Vass styles you will be getting?

Very exciting adding Vass.

I really like that tan scotch grain medallion toe. I too have been looking for a business casual shoe for foul Chicago weather and that looks great.

I need the shoe in US 7.5e - that id, relatively small and wide. Is that possible and, if so, how?


Also would really love that monk with the medallion toe in Burgundy cotdovan

I would like to see some "Budapesters" in the distinct "Budapest" last, in which Vass considered as their "pride".

Also, bring back that traditional long heel counters design, please.

These are two pictures from Vass'es web site. Look at the difference in the heel counters.
The spectator has the older style long heel counter.
The Cognac grain one has the common heel counter.

+1 for Budapest

stmaier said:

here is my Vass antic cognac cordovan boot...

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One more vote for these.. general price range?

stmaier said:

Vass antic cognac cordovan boot...

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Nice boot . . . . i could be interested in this as well. Pricing & sole type needed please.



rydenfan said:

Mike, I LOVE that boot. I would be up for light shell like pictured or antique cognac. That or the NST boot I am all over. I would love a York or Dainite but would go leather if that us the consensus.

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Me too, it's gorgeous! I've had a few guys in the store give that a positive eye too, so I'm pretty sure that we can build that out.

jimney said:

I like this a lot, are they the same leather as the Austerity Brogue you have in stock now? My current most expensive shoes are Alden cordovan LWBs, but this is mighty tempting...

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Yup, that's the same scotchgrain leather and the same color.

stmaier said:

Unfortunately the only rubber sole Vass currently works with is that Vibram on the scotchgrain Alt Wien Mike posted.

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stmaier said:

True, but you have to supply the dainite sole for them and they are still figuring out how to work with it...here is pic from the Vass thread...I would wait on ordering this until they are totally comfortable working with it...

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

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Good point here. Getting the Dainite soles is no problem at all. Vass doesn't typically stock them, but I have a direct line to Dainite in England, so we can absolutely purchase them and have them sent without a problem. But let me check on how comfortable they are with using them these days, so that we can confirm it as an option.

Ambulance Chaser said:

I missed out on the RLPL Narvell frenzy from a few years ago, so I'd be interested in a single-strap monk in dark brown suede, with or without medallion.

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Oh yes. A million yes'es to this.

clee1982 said:

congrat, but is this going to be more country/rugged oriented?

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It's totally open. Given the delivery window (around early November) a lot of guys have expressed interest in boots and heavier shoes, but we can certainly do something dressy and totally different as well. We're up for anything that you guys are interested in.

stmaier said:

I mentioned this earlier but they are expecting samples from the new source (Haas...most likely the supplier JL switched to about a year ago for the museum calf) in mid September. I have three make-ups (2 dark brown, 1 navy) on order and Rezso did not think that my delivery dates for the end of September and mid/end October should move all that much.

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Hmm, I'm going to check on this. We had museum calf stock styles on order for November which have been canceled, so I can't say for sure right now. I don't know if Rezso can either, but I'll drop him a line tonight. But trust me, helping them to get another source for leather like this is a top priority for us. It's amazing! I was very lucky to get a pair of double monks in the Ilcea light brown: The ability to offer this in off-kilter colors like a dark green would be great! They can do gorgeous burnishing on it too.

Owen Meany said:

I am so in. Please please included 7US in your inventory orders. Thanks.

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Great! And we'll probably go down to size 41 by default on stock orders, but what I'll do is post the new styles here before we place them, so anyone outside of the usual size range can tack on a unit for the regular retail price.

aldenwear said:

Very exciting adding Vass. I really like that tan scotch grain medallion toe. I too have been looking for a business casual shoe for foul Chicago weather and that looks great. I need the shoe in US 7.5e - that id, relatively small and wide. Is that possible and, if so, how? Also would really love that monk with the medallion toe in Burgundy cotdovan

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Oh sure, they can definitely do that. Depending on the last you'd most likely need a 41 wide or 40.5 wide. Both are possible. We can work with you personally to help you figure out your sizing in this. If you wear Carmina, Alden, C&J, EG, etc then we've got formulas to help determine your fit here.

mtc2000 said:

I would like to see some "Budapesters" in the distinct "Budapest" last, in which Vass considered as their "pride". Also, bring back that traditional long heel counters design, please. These are two pictures from Vass'es web site. Look at the difference in the heel counters. The spectator has the older style long heel counter. The Cognac grain one has the common heel counter.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

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Absolutely love these! The Budapester shape could lend itself nicely to that scotchgrain/vibram commando concept if you want to switch it up from the Alt Wien that I posted. Or we can do this in a more trad calfskin or cordovan.

SoGent said:

Nice boot . . . . i could be interested in this as well. Pricing & sole type needed please.

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Will advise on that!

Ambulance Chaser said:

Mike/Matt: Can you remind us of the stock Vass styles you will be getting?

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Yup, here's our current lineup for mid-Sept: 1) Alt Wien, 3636 last, Antique Cognac Box Calf, Double Leather Sole with Goyser-Sewing. 2) Theresianer Blucher, New Peter Last, Cognac Scotchgrain, Double Leather Sole and Flat Welt 3) Theresianer High Boot (with medallion and no speedhooks, all eyes), 3636 last, Dark Coganc Box Calf, Vibram Commando sole with Goyser-Sewing 4) Double Monk, F-Last, Oxblood Boxcalf, Double Leather Sole and Flat Welt

I may be interested in this too. I may be getting ahead of myself but it does not hurt to ask. Any plans to offer Vass bespoke service down the road? This could be very interesting and tempting.

Can Vass do narrow widths as well as wides?

The Theresianer high boot sounds staggering. I have been looking for a tough winter shoe/boot. My only concern w these (apart from my wife killing me for buying them) is that I'd be too reluctant to wear them in inclement weather.

Is the dark cognac almost a burgundy?

Here is one more I idea I'd like to throw out there...this is a vintage boot...made to look like a cap toe with stitching like the Galway...thinking blind eyelets and hooks...F last...in a buffalo leather...trying to see if the buffalo leather comes in grey...












Buffalo leather below:



laufer said:

I may be interested in this too. I may be getting ahead of myself but it does not hurt to ask. Any plans to offer Vass bespoke service down the road? This could be very interesting and tempting.

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We certainly offer individual MTO service - we've actually had a few guys place orders this week. But this is working with existing lasts and sizing. The single-pair upcharge for that is 30%.

Vass isn't a true "bespoke" manufacturer in the full sense of the word. They don't completely customize a shoe to the exact sizing of your feet. However, they can make slight modifications to their existing lasts in order to accommodate a specific sizing quirk. But this is something that you'd have to arrange with them and you would have to travel to Budapest in person to do it. They also require that you purchase a set amount of shoes per season to keep your last on file.

If you typically fit well into most shoes, then it's not necessary IMO. Vass lasts have a brilliant fit already, and many guys find them to be the most comfortable shoes in their wardrobe by far. And with an individual MTO, you can specify something like a 42 for the right and a 42.5 wide for the left. So it's entirely possible to get a fantastic fit within their usual production.

But, I would certainly encourage anyone on here to visit Budapest! I used to live in Vienna, so I've been there many times. It's an awesome city with a lot to discover, even if it's not on the radar of most people's destinations in Europe. I can definitely point you in the direction of some rocking paprika chicken...

Beatlegeuse said:

Can Vass do narrow widths as well as wides?

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I think so, but let me confirm that. My notes only say that they can do wides.

budapest12 said:

The Theresianer high boot sounds staggering. I have been looking for a tough winter shoe/boot. My only concern w these (apart from my wife killing me for buying them) is that I'd be too reluctant to wear them in inclement weather.

Is the dark cognac almost a burgundy?

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It's going to be be great! "Dark Cognac" is a medium tan calfskin that's been hand-burnished to a dark tan color. It looks like this:



Speaking from personal experience, Vass' calfskin stands up to lousy weather brilliantly. And I opted to use calf here instead of scotchgrain to keep it on the dressy side, so that it would be a great match for flannel and tweed suiting. And when the weather is lousy out, this will be your best friend...


Tarrago Nano Protector

We sell a ton of it because it's the best product on the market. It will waterproof the leather and the welt. The Vibram sole will give you excellent traction in the rain and the snow.

Epaulet said:

Tarrago Nano Protector

We sell a ton of it because it's the best product on the market. It will waterproof the leather and the welt. The Vibram sole will give you excellent traction in the rain and the snow.

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How long does it last before needing to be re-applied? also how strong is the waterproofing? Could I now walk in a rain storm and not have to worry about water seeping in at all? Spray on any leather?

Sorry been considering this for a while and never gotten on it.

It works brilliantly with suede, that was my experience.