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MTM Suit Jacket from Dress Shirt Measurements?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

Hi everyone,

First post to the forum and it's probably one that will show my novice and humility. I am ordering a MTM suit, and I have all the measurements down almost perfectly (a few are +/- about a half inch from separate measurements, but most are spot on). The only thing I'm worried about now is sleeve length for my jacket. Now the MTM maker is requesting that I use a good-fitting jacket to get my sleeve measurement. And there's the problem.

 

I have never had a great fitting jacket. The sleeves have always been long, and have fallen to that dreadful middle of the palm position. The shoulders seem like they are just a tad too big (I could be wrong though. I am a novice after all). The length just fell down my body as if it were a dress. None of it was ever fitted. My question is how can I provide a correct measurement if I don't have a jacket to go off of?

Can I take measurements from a good dress shirt I own and then subtract 1/2 inch from the length of the shirt sleeve when buttoned (measured from end of shoulder straight down to bottom of sleeve)?   <--- And this I want to clarify: I would not measure and provide the sleeve length when it was unbuttoned, and then subtract 1/2 inch from that, correct? If I did, that would only mess up the 1/2 inch gap between shirt and suit ends when the shirt sleeve was buttoned, wouldn't it? Hence measuring while buttoned and then subtracting the appropriate half inch.

Or alternatively:

If a suit jacket seemed to fit well besides the overall length and sleeve length, could I not just roll the suit sleeves up to the half inch position from the shirt sleeve that it would need to be in, and then measure that to find the correct suit sleeve measurement? And if I use this method, I need to be absolutely certain - The shoulder seam on a suit jacket should line up with the end of your shoulder just as a good fitting dress shirt would, right? It shouldn't hang off the shoulder any bit?

And now I'm embarrassed to be so clueless. Nonetheless, I'm excited to be here on the forum.

 

post #2 of 6
Don't get working cuffs, and deliberately have the sleeves made too long. Then you can have a tailor take them up to the right spot. This also gives you leeway for things like compensating for a dropped shoulder.

Once this suit is dialled in, you can then use it as a base.

If I could make a couple of suggestions re mtm suits:

Specify the buttoning point if you can. Most places default to stupidly high buttons, and it doesn't look good on anyone. They should be using a measurement up from the bottom point of the quarters, you'll want it to sit an inch or so above your belly button.

Try to specify as much about your posture as possible, send pictures if you can. Things like shoulder slope, back curve, and sleeve pitch aren't catered for by most mtm places, and they're huge factors in suit fit.
post #3 of 6
Welcome. I'd start with an existing jacket and consider the adjustments you want to make from there rather than working with a shirt. Do not get working buttonholes. If the sleeves are too long, you can have them shortened by any competent alterations tailor. Once you have the measurements exactly right, you can think about working buttonholes. It's online MTM, which can be cheaper, but also more frustrating when stuff goes wrong. Don't expect perfection or close the first time. If you have the time and some additional money you're willing to spend, you may have better luck with a Hong Kong travelling tailor who will actually measure you.

Also, check out some of the existing threads on MTM ordering and suit fits, especially if there is a thread for whatever company you are considering.
post #4 of 6
No a shirt is not a good proxy - your route is simply hit and miss and demonstrates the problems associated with on line \MTM.
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 

Thanks for your help guys. I will go with non functional cuffs and then work from there.

A Hong Kong travelling tailor, huh? Interesting. Have any names, websites, photos, or contact information?

post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 

Thanks for your help guys. I will go with non functional cuffs and then work from there.

A Hong Kong travelling tailor? Interesting. Any names, websites, photos, contact information you can provide?

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