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Are there any MTM companies out there that will copy a suit/coat that you supply them with? - Page 2

post #16 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isbister View Post

Mears of Walsall will copy your suit. I needed a new hacking jacket in a hurry two years ago but I've never been happy self-measuring, so I sent them a sports jacket I had had made. Their copy was perfect in every respect and I am happy to recommend them. 

Some time googling will bring to light many other companies that will do the same thing.

I know nothing about Mears other than what the website displays, which is an MTM program.
Not bespoke. Based on the heavy, big shouldered, British Country Wear they show, I think
you would be crazy to expect that they could recreate an Oxxford soft-shouldered typically
American jacket. Your best option is to deal with Oxxford or go to Savile row to one of the
tailors known for "soft" clothing like A&S or Steed. Naples is another option
post #17 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I know nothing about Mears other than what the website displays, which is an MTM program.
Not bespoke. Based on the heavy, big shouldered, British Country Wear they show, I think
you would be crazy to expect that they could recreate an Oxxford soft-shouldered typically
American jacket. Your best option is to deal with Oxxford or go to Savile row to one of the
tailors known for "soft" clothing like A&S or Steed. Naples is another option

Tailors in Rome that do the Soft Roman Italian cut are also an option for the OP. There is an increasing number of people (proudly including myself) that prefer the Soft Roman Italian cut to the Neapolitan Italian cut.

A. Caraceni Milano and Ferdinando Caraceni Milano, despite being located in Milan and not Rome like Domenico Caraceni Roma, also do the Soft Roman Italian cut. That also makes Milan an option for the OP, but only if he goes to the two Caraceni Milano operations.
post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post


I know nothing about Mears other than what the website displays, which is an MTM program.
Not bespoke. Based on the heavy, big shouldered, British Country Wear they show, I think
you would be crazy to expect that they could recreate an Oxxford soft-shouldered typically
American jacket. Your best option is to deal with Oxxford or go to Savile row to one of the
tailors known for "soft" clothing like A&S or Steed. Naples is another option

As I recall, the OP was asking for MTM recommendations rather than bespoke. Mears are certainly not bespoke, and you are correct in assuming their block is quite 'traditional', so it might well not be what our friend is looking for - but I have no particular knowledge of Oxxford, nor really much interest in American styles in general. I suspect going to Savile Row would be overkill, however - certainly a very expensive option.

post #19 of 30
Thread Starter 

yeah, bespoke is out of the question as I'm located in Norway, and very rarely (if ever) travel to Italy, or even England. 

 

The Oxxford is a 1220 (N2), so it's actually much closer to Italian styling than American. High armholes, soft shoulders, high lapel gorge, dual vents, slim fitting. Could order from Oxxford...but then again, they're 3k$ a piece. I'd probably end up around 4k$ after taxes, vat and shipping. 

post #20 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspace View Post

yeah, bespoke is out of the question as I'm located in Norway, and very rarely (if ever) travel to Italy, or even England. 

The Oxxford is a 1220 (N2), so it's actually much closer to Italian styling than American. High armholes, soft shoulders, high lapel gorge, dual vents, slim fitting. Could order from Oxxford...but then again, they're 3k$ a piece. I'd probably end up around 4k$ after taxes, vat and shipping. 

Am I missing something here? Oxxford 1220 suits new with tags are listed on ebay all the time. Check these two stores topshelfapparel and frieschskys. You can also pick up Oxxford type A which has similar styling and superb construction on the bay for less than $1200.
post #21 of 30
Thread Starter 

I've been hunting for them on Ebay since last year, but there are never any in solid Navy or Charcoal in 40R, that fits my shoulders. The type A's are too wide over the shoulders...which again usually leads me to MTM. 

post #22 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post

Tailors in Rome that do the Soft Roman Italian cut are also an option for the OP. There is an increasing number of people (proudly including myself) that prefer the Soft Roman Italian cut to the Neapolitan Italian cut.

A. Caraceni Milano and Ferdinando Caraceni Milano, despite being located in Milan and not Rome like Domenico Caraceni Roma, also do the Soft Roman Italian cut. That also makes Milan an option for the OP, but only if he goes to the two Caraceni Milano operations.

The soft Roman cut? I am not familiar with it. Any pictures?
post #23 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

The soft Roman cut? I am not familiar with it. Any pictures?

The Soft Roman Italian cut's construction is 25% firm, 75% soft. The Soft Roman Italian cut completely hides all bodily imperfections-and does a perfect job of it, just like the Milanese Italian cut (whose construction is 90% firm, 10% soft). At the same time, the Soft Roman Italian cut completely brings out all of the good things about the body-and does a perfect job of it, just like the Neapolitan Italian cut (whose construction is 10% firm, 90% soft).

Despite the Soft Roman Italian cut's construction being 5/6 as soft and 2 1/2 times firmer than the Neapolitan Italian cut's construction, the Soft Roman Italian cut is just as comfortable, pajama like and sweatsuit like as the Neapolitan Italian cut.

For pictures, go to the websites for the three Caraceni operations The website addresses are www.a-caraceni.it (A. Caraceni Milano), www.tommyegiuliocaraceni.com (Domenico Caraceni Roma) and www.caracenisartoria.net (Ferdinando Caraceni Milano). Other websites to go to for pictures are www.sartoriacarbone.it (Sartoria Carbone) and www.sartoriaceletano.it (Sartoria Celetano). These 5 bespoke tailors do the Soft Roman Italian cut (and a phenomenal job of it, I might add).
post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post

The Soft Roman Italian cut's construction is 25% firm, 75% soft. The Soft Roman Italian cut completely hides all bodily imperfections-and does a perfect job of it, just like the Milanese Italian cut (whose construction is 90% firm, 10% soft). At the same time, the Soft Roman Italian cut completely brings out all of the good things about the body-and does a perfect job of it, just like the Neapolitan Italian cut (whose construction is 10% firm, 90% soft).

Despite the Soft Roman Italian cut's construction being 5/6 as soft and 2 1/2 times firmer than the Neapolitan Italian cut's construction, the Soft Roman Italian cut is just as comfortable, pajama like and sweatsuit like as the Neapolitan Italian cut.

For pictures, go to the websites for the three Caraceni operations The website addresses are www.a-caraceni.it (A. Caraceni Milano), www.tommyegiuliocaraceni.com (Domenico Caraceni Roma) and www.caracenisartoria.net (Ferdinando Caraceni Milano). Other websites to go to for pictures are www.sartoriacarbone.it (Sartoria Carbone) and www.sartoriaceletano.it (Sartoria Celetano). These 5 bespoke tailors do the Soft Roman Italian cut (and a phenomenal job of it, I might add).

I didn't notice any pics of their house style on their sites.
post #25 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post


I didn't notice any pics of their house style on their sites.

Neither did I - I've got no idea what he's talking about, it all sounds like varieties of ice cream.

 

I'm a little sceptical of the extravagant promises concerning bodily imperfections - nor does the 'pajama like and sweatsuit like' modifier inspire enormous confidence in the Neapolitan cut.


Edited by Isbister - 9/2/13 at 8:54am
post #26 of 30

post #27 of 30
Here are the pictures of the SartoriaCarbone House Style:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40084174@N07/sets/72157620840847771/show/with/3971565557/

Not to my taste. Too much shoulder. I have an eight year old Battistoni ( Roman) RTW sport coat
which has a more natural shoulder than the examples shown, and it is too structured for me.


http://www.styleforum.net/t/341032/san-francisco-sf-meetup-thursday-april-4th-beckett-robb/120


Sixth photo down, I am the bearded Senior Citizen on the left . Note the shoulder on my jacket.
That is my preference.
Edited by comrade - 9/2/13 at 4:18pm
post #28 of 30
This generally isn't a good idea with Bespoke, MTM has to be a nightmare. An MTM factory is about volume, there may be many options but those options are not unlimited for practical reasons. Doing something like using a different canvas would choke up the production and at the end of the day someone has to source that canvas. Do they send someone to the garment district for half the day to source it? These things may not seem like a big deal but they all take time away from a time critical business. If you can work within the factories limitations you may be ok but remember Oxxxford is a super high end maker, those canvasses and processes are expensive for good reason and anybody replicating them will probably want paying as much as Oxxxford.
post #29 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

Here are the pictures of the SartoriaCarbone House Style:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40084174@N07/sets/72157620840847771/show/with/3971565557/

Not to my taste. Too much shoulder. I have an eight year old Battistoni ( Roman) RTW sport coat
which has a more natural shoulder than the examples shown, and it is too structured for me.


http://www.styleforum.net/t/341032/san-francisco-sf-meetup-thursday-april-4th-beckett-robb/120


Sixth photo down, I am the bearded Senior Citizen on the left . Note the shoulder on my jacket.
That is my preference.

Other than the roping in the shoulder, the Sartoria Carbone house style doesn't look anymore nor any less natural than you jacket, comrade.
post #30 of 30
Menswear style unlike womens wear style is a a matter of inches or centimeters, if you prefer.
A roped shoulder makes all the difference in the world. And based on the Carbone photos,
the shoulders are also extended as well as roped. What I do like is that Carbone hasn't fallen
into the current fad of cutting short tight jackets. Their jackets have classical proportions.
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