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So this weekend I ventured in to Paul Stuart in the Loop and tried on each of the models in several sizes. None fit particularly well and, in spite of doing MTM, it'll never look great if starting with a base that doesn't really work.

I then ventured into Syd Jerome down the street and found some other makers which fit much better, notably Isaia, Belvest and Zegna (which I'd remembered as fitting too tight). They also sell Oxxford, but had none to try on.

Within these four, which is most likely to give me what I'm looking for:

-Flattering but not super contemporary cut (I'm 6'1, 190 with very thick legs)
-Elegant styling without being too staid or edgy
-Ability to do a good three-piece (in which case the button stance matters more)
-Good with changing fairly minor things that differ from the stock suits (peak lapes, side tabs instead of loops, raise trouser waist to wear with braces)


As far as price, let's just say I'm not trying to cut corners but also declined to try on the Brioni suits they had because those were a bit too much even OTR.

My impression was that the Zegna fit best OTR (but I only tried on the jacket), the Isaia was a bit too contemporary what with its higher button stance and Belvest tended to be a bit boxier than the others but still not too boxy.

Any thoughts from those who have done MTM on these? My biggest hesitation to just go with Zegna is that they don't seem to be finished to the same quality standard as Isaia or Oxxford (less familiar with Belvest) but aren't much less expensive.