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Leonard Logsdail suit (with pictures) - Page 3

post #31 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Ask your marketing department. They should be able to front you the cash. So long as you avoid divots, you'll make it up on the back end.

Marketing would seem to agree with you.....

Since your interested to see though, this is how I fit a larger build:





This man is 6.4 tall and a size 54 chest (thats inches not European sizing)

Now I will admit this is not a perfect jacket, (it is not actually finished yet, you are seeing the forward fitting which is why there are no buttons). but it is clean and has shape.

After this fitting I cleaned up the sleeves and released the front a touch. The jacket is rather short but this is what the client wanted, even so on the whole I think it works. I also made the trousers. I shot this on an iphone 3 outside of the clients apt so its not staged and its not photoshopped or anything. I wanted to put something like this in another thread but since I was called out, I thought I would show you what I could do. I am sure I have done better and I am sure people will find fault and maybe better examples, but in fairness I think these shots do demonstrate that an English style fitted coat can work on a man with a large build.
post #32 of 46
That looks great (I am sure you will fix the divots). I am guessing we are also seeing a difference between bespoke and MTM.
post #33 of 46

It's worth noting this is not a Logsdail bespoke suit, but rather a Carnaby Custom MTM product (a business run by LL's son).

post #34 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

That looks great (I am sure you will fix the divots). I am guessing we are also seeing a difference between bespoke and MTM.[/quote

It depends how you define Bespoke and MTM, but this is from my "custom" make so it's not what I would define Bespoke or MTM, for me it's somewhere in between. Some people would call it bespoke, some would call it MTM, it is a factory made garment, although of course it's a good one.
post #35 of 46
I think of factory made to a real, individual pattern cut by the tailor (rather than the factory) to be bespoke, though it isn't the same thing as handmade-bespoke (not that that is a term). It is a budget version of bespoke and there isn't really a neat, easy fitting name for it.That is what Paul WInston at Chipp2 used to do (may still). Is that what you do for your "custom make".
post #36 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I think of factory made to a real, individual pattern cut by the tailor (rather than the factory) to be bespoke, though it isn't the same think as handmade-bespoke (not that that is a term). It is a budget version of bespoke and there isn't really a neat, easy fitting name for it.That is what Paul WInston at Chipp2 used to do (may still). Is that what you do for your "custom make".

 

My cousin asked a few months ago that I speak with LL Jr. to ascertain the quality and value (as he wanted to order a few suits upon graduating undergrad). From our brief conversation, I got the sense that it was a standard MTM product (he did have a different term for it, and refused to call it MTM). Given the price point (about $1,200 IIRC), that would make sense.

 

LL Jr. also explicitly mentioned that his father would not be conducting the measuring / fittings. Perhaps that has changed.

post #37 of 46
I suppose you could say that.

Here are my definitions laid out:

BESPOKE

http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress.com/about-david-reeves-bespoke-suits-2/

CUSTOM MADE

http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress.com/about-david-reeves-bespoke-suits/

Your right though, marketing and coming up with names of these builds/sevices is really difficult. I have been thinking of calling them all Bespoke just because the term is so ubiquitous and then coming up with a fancy name for the "real Bespoke" to differentiate it.
post #38 of 46

David - that's a nice coat. Good work.

post #39 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post

some obvious points -

button stance too high
lapels too small
huge collar gap
shoulders are a mess
rise of pants too low
no shape at all on the jacket
All of those complaints, with the exception of the collar gap and maybe the shoulders, are more about subjective taste than real errors. Carl mentioned that the collar gap might be solved by a tug. And the shoulders look OK to me. But it certainly seems like the upper back of the sleeves could use some work.
post #40 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

All of those complaints, with the exception of the collar gap and maybe the shoulders, are more about subjective taste than real errors. Carl mentioned that the collar gap might be solved by a tug. And the shoulders look OK to me. But it certainly seems like the upper back of the sleeves could use some work.

Ridiculous.

I should like to see how bad this garment would have to have been for you not to forgive it its grievous (and glaring) shortcomings.

On second thought, maybe I don't, it's perfectly bad enough as it is...

Poor OP.
post #41 of 46
On the larger fellow, the left quarter (viewer's right) is lower than the right one.

Rob
post #42 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

It's worth noting this is not a Logsdail bespoke suit, but rather a Carnaby Custom MTM product (a business run by LL's son).

That is from the lookbook.
The "Heritage" section on the "About Us" page says:
Quote:
Heritage

All garment production is overseen by Leonard Snr., a true master tailor who has been hand making bespoke suits for over 40 years. You can see some of his recent movie work below.

It is not hard to see how someone could think they are getting the benfit of Len, Sr.'s exertise when they buy a Carnaby Custom suit. And maybe they are in the sense that Len, Sr. designed the suit blocks. And maybe he has even more input than that.
post #43 of 46

^ Interesting, I hadn't seen that. Maybe Sr. is more involved than I thought.

post #44 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

^ Interesting, I hadn't seen that. Maybe Sr. is more involved than I thought.

Based on the pics, I reached the opposite conclusion.
post #45 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post

some obvious points -

button stance too high
lapels too small
huge collar gap
shoulders are a mess
rise of pants too low
no shape at all on the jacket


+1

 

Although some are style (lapels etc) they don't work on your body so it doesn't matter if you want to wear a skinny tie, low rise trousers, and skinny lapels, you just don't look good in them.

 

The button stance, lapel width and rise of pants are stylistic choices that went wrong. The rest are just plain sloppy fitting.

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