Originally Posted by joshuadowen
This is really the heart of the matter. The nature of the high-end tailoring business makes scale very difficult - there isn't enough skilled labor. Once a tailor is operating at capacity, they have no incentive to attract new customers. As these are all relatively small operations, it isn't hard for them to hit capacity. At that point, they make more money by raising prices, not by seeking out new customers.
I know that what I am about to say is off topic, but there is actually a lot of skilled labor in England, Italy and Japan for bespoke. Several other members of Style Forum and the other fashion and style message boards have said the same things based on their own research.
I have also done my own research and what I just said regarding there being a lot of skilled labor in England, Italy and Japan for bespoke and it is absolutely true. In America, sadly, there is far too little skilled labor for bespoke.
A vast majority of bespoke in America is in New York City. Franco Ercole is somewhere in Brooklyn and David Reeves is in Astoria, Queens. The rest are in Manhattan (mostly the upper east side).
Long Island has a few bespoke makers (mostly tailors that are also shirt and pocket square makers). There is a bespoke maker in Western Nassau (Lynbrook or Manhasset, I believe) that just does shirts and pocket squares. Enzo's custom tailor in Smithtown only does bespoke suits and garments similar to suits (jackets, pants, vests and so on and so forth) and has a house style similar to the bespoke tailors in the southern 1/4 of Italy (based on what I saw on the mannequin passing by the shop on Main Street/Route 25-25A). Enzo's, last time I checked, starts at $2,000 (half hand made) and $6,000 (all hand made).
Based on what I saw on the website, Montella's custom tailor in Bellport Village also has a house style similar to the bespoke tailors in the southern 1/4 of Italy (which is the Neapolitan Italian cut, FWIW). Last time I checked, Montella's starts at $4,500 (all hand made).
A high end mens store in Greenvale on Glen Cove Road called Victor Talbots also does bespoke but only suits and garments similar to suits (as described above with Enzo's in Smithtown). Unlike Enzo's, Victor Talbots does not have a house style and can do any style you want. The style they do the most for their bespoke, IIRC, is Sack American, a la Brooks Brothers. Last time I checked, they started at $1,400 (mostly hand made) and $1,900 (all hand made). Enzo's in Smithtown loses a lot of customers (all of whom live in Commack, Kings Park, Mount Sinai and everywhere on the North Shore of Long Island in between these towns) to Victor Talbots for bespoke suits and similar garments (despite Victor Talbots being located 25 to 45 miles away from these towns).