CAPSULE PARIS - PEIR WU
Fresh from the Eurostar and a sublime easy-peasy trip to Capsule, was rewarded with a newcomer to the show, from London – Peir Wu.
Originally from Singapore, where Peir attended a Technical Art School, and 10 years in London, with a BA and MA from Central St Martin’s. I had no agenda and combined an impromptu wish list for the UK brands that had come over, with whatever caught my eye. This makes for a very relaxed, near-indulgent fashion week pour moi. And true to form Peir’s designs caught my eye.
A patchwork pocket waistcoat, with unfinished hems to be precise. 8 collections to date, this was her first formal trade show showing, preceded by a number of private shows in Paris. The well-trod ‘safe route’ to showing in Paris often involves, toe-dips in the pool around a key fashion week, with the hopes of syphoning off some of the buying talent already ensconced in nearby venues. Well, what else are you going to do?
The relaxed, easy-going styling was inspired as a ‘travel series’ for different occasions. Waterproof fabrics, breathable, loose-fitting menswear. The finishing on a number of garments resembled a tailor’s fitting stage, the work-in-progress as a finished item, unfinished seams, but carefully styled.
I enjoyed the de-construction and reconstruction on trouser waistbands finding a new form and silhouette to unpick the eye’s lazy following of convention. In Peir’s hands it conveys a dynamic, comfortable modern style aesthetic with a hint of a certain workers uniform with its clean lines, simple uncluttered suit styling, in one color. It was a relief that Peir volunteered “it’s a little bit Mao”, after I had hinted its influence, but she wasn’t wearing it as a badge either, agreeing on the quilted lined waistcoat with its Asian references were there if you wanted it.
There was a wonderful natural feel to the collection combining water-proof nylon fabrics (one of her things – hi-performance/ innovative) with jersey, delivering “Eastern Quietude” she proudly plucks out of the air as a synthesis of what she is all about, what I am looking at on the rails. Good enough for me, a bit of Wittgenstein, un-complicating life, with hundreds of men’s designers and Paris lying in wait.
Peir’s retail prices, £84 for trousers, £123 for jackets is all very reasonable, and sensibly affordable. “Mr Porter came and looked at the range and will follow up.” Best of luck with that and all the buyers who should have stopped by this new designer’s stand. One to watch and clothes I would wear. How do you trip up success, before it passes your stand? “Sometimes you just have to party with the right people.”
By Paul Markevicius