Mystery, I don't know. Selling only, "avant garde" is not easy, look how Atelier had to shut down a while back. That's why brands like Acne, and others are in the mix, to make some money in order to be sustainable. E.g. H.Lorenzo carries a ton of crap like Fear of God, Antonioli carries a load of HBA. Sure LN-CC has slowed down since the Italians bought them, but it's still a good place to find some interesting buys. Can always count on them to deliver something good from two or three brands currently stocked.
My powermesh shirt finally got to NY, just gotta pick it up at the post office tomorrow, can't wait.