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Guys, how many of you can honestly tell if somebody is wearing a quality suit? - Page 4

post #46 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterFu View Post

You mean shoes like these:


The picture above makes me sad (that such a thing should exist).

Is this from the Prada F/W 2005 collection? Hell, they sold for $595. If it sold for that much, it had to have been top of the line leather right? Right?
(not a serious post)


Back to the program....while I cannot tell the difference between brands, I have found that paying attention to this forum for a good 2 years has at least trained me to notice the attributes of a nicer suit. To Claghorn's point above, the cheaper materials and construction are usually the giveaway after some usage. On cheaper wares, shoulders get wonky, fabrics get weird textures, lapels are lifeless, the back hangs mis-shapenly (made up word), etc.
post #47 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post


Is this from the Prada F/W 2005 collection? Hell, they sold for $595. If it sold for that much, it had to have been top of the line leather right? Right?
(not a serious post)


Back to the program....while I cannot tell the difference between brands, I have found that paying attention to this forum for a good 2 years has at least trained me to notice the attributes of a nicer suit. To Claghorn's point above, the cheaper materials and construction are usually the giveaway after some usage. On cheaper wares, shoulders get wonky, fabrics get weird textures, lapels are lifeless, the back hangs mis-shapenly (made up word), etc.

IMHO, even some of the Suit Supply stuff (if a good alterations tailor was involved) requires you to get closer than socially acceptable to discern that it isn't a more expensive suit. I don't make it a habit of grabbing the bottom of dudes suit jackets to pinch test them or start flipping over their lapels and collar to inspect stitching while riding in the elevator. I value my teeth too much.

 

But the 200 dollar (buy one and get 15 free) fused and glued wonder is as obvious as day from half a block away. I say this as the owner of one such suit that I proudly wear on any domestic flight, comfortable in the knowledge that it is providing me layers of chemically bonded protection from travel ick.

post #48 of 74

You can't tell from a distance, really, but you can normally immediately spot the guys that think spending money = good fit.  Usually the clues are expensive shoes covered up by too much pant leg, and a suit that strains to button around an expanding stomach, and fingers turning blue because the blood is cut off at the arm holes.

 

I'm still planning my wedding, and have told innumerate brides on a couple of message boards that a rented Vera Wang Tuxedo is no guarantee that it's actually going to look good on anyone.

post #49 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

You can't tell from a distance, really, but you can normally immediately spot the guys that think spending money = good fit.  Usually the clues are expensive shoes covered up by too much pant leg, and a suit that strains to button around an expanding stomach, and fingers turning blue because the blood is cut off at the arm holes.

Well, for some of those guys the clothes may have fit pretty well long ago and its their bodies that have changed, but this is a fair point. Fit issues are easier to spot from a distance sometimes.
post #50 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


Well, for some of those guys the clothes may have fit pretty well long ago and its their bodies that have changed, but this is a fair point. Fit issues are easier to spot from a distance sometimes.

 

And, if you're trying to look good, fit is probably more important (to a point).  I'd rather be in a $300 suit that fits immaculately, than a $700 suit that fits terribly.

post #51 of 74

Nobody really picked the OPs pics apart though, which tells me that most of us can't tell by just quickly looking.

post #52 of 74

probably because seeing the suit in movement is the easiest way to tell sh*tty from nice...

post #53 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE View Post

Distinguishing very cheap from expensive suits is often possible, e.g. by spotting
- Cheap plastic buttons!!!
- Bad optics of the lapel roll
- Terrible pattern matching in case of suits with stripes, windowpane etc.
- And in some cases the fabrics really look cheap

It gets tougher to visually distinguish different levels of quality once you reached a certain level, e.g. Canali vs. Zegna vs. Brioni

Buttons are a detail I notice, though I hear even A&S uses plastic buttons.
post #54 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by scohrdarkshadow View Post

Unless I can actually feel the fabric, or inspect it for hand-made buttonholes/sleeve head etc, I usually can't.


Sure some may point to the way it fits, but one can easily purchase a $8,000 Kiton in the wrong size, or a $150 slim fit Alfani that fits them perfectly. And quite honestly many Kitons are not very attractively cut anyway. I've heard of people saying a polyester suit's fabric just looks bad, but honestly without touching one I usually can't tell it apart from wool from a few feet away. The supposed "sheen" just isn't apparent to my eye, and who's it say it isn't a 90% wool 10% silk blend if it is shiny?

I think drape and lapel roll are the only legitimate way one can differentiate from sight. But honestly I feel like drape is such a nebulous description, and seriously raise your hand if you can really differentiate drape and aren't just BSing to make yourself sound good on teh stylefrvm.

So for me, I only look at lapel roll, and I'm not even completely confident with it. I have a Kiton with a horrible lapel roll that's worse than a $10 suit (or at least my fused polyester Armani), but I believe a really nice 3-2 roll can only be done with a hand sewn lapel and canvass.

Thoughts? Feel free to disagree

I have too much time on my hands, so just for kicks, can you guess from these photos? I realize these are static images vs moving IRL, and I'm probably making these extra hard smile.gif

<$900 (ie cheap brands)
$1k-2K (designer fused suits such as Armani, D&G (there are no Lanvin by Caruso or Prada by Belvest etc))
>$3K (high end Styleforum approved, think Kiton, Attolini)


1)


2)


3)


4)


5)



6)


Bonus)
[

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Let me start by saying I know relatively little about this stuff but I'm guessing the expensive suits are #4 and the last one. Is the last one Rubinacci? Not sure who made #4 but while it could probably close a little better in the front, it appears bespoke by the way it fits the chest and the way it countours a bit. I would guess that is a full canvass suit. # 2 I'm guessing is a zegna OTR. #3 and and #6 look cheap. Not sure about #1 but probably relatively cheap OTR.
post #55 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by dapperdoctor View Post

Nobody really picked the OPs pics apart though, which tells me that most of us can't tell by just quickly looking.

I'd say it's closer to what MisterFu was saying: model pictures are hard. They're designed to make it look as good as possible. Real world conditions are more realistic and you can more readily discern them.
post #56 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by scohrdarkshadow View Post

4)

This one's a brioni. It's one of Brosnan's when he was bond.
post #57 of 74
Well then, at least I got the expensive part right and the full canvass part. Do you know who makes the last pic?
post #58 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Then I would donate the jacket to charity and set the cleaners' establishment on fire 
. smile.gif
post #59 of 74

I'm not really interested in whether something is expensive but in the fit and the fabric. Sure, certainly better fit and better fabrics tend to be associated with more outlay, but it's not an entirely linear relationship. For example, some of the semi-bespoke suits from Cad and the Dandy that I've seen measure up very well against some much more expensive London tailors, and it seems clear than Suit Supply is ripping up the rulebook as far as OTR suits are concerned - there have been a number of fits posted on this forum where I've thought 'wow' and it has turned out to be Suit Supply. And we all know that Kiton and some other very fashionable (albeit, yes, very well-constructed) high-end OTR suits are overpriced for what you are actually getting - because they know that people will pay for the relative exclusivity.

post #60 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

I'm not really interested in whether something is expensive but in the fit and the fabric. Sure, certainly better fit and better fabrics tend to be associated with more outlay, but it's not an entirely linear relationship. For example, some of the semi-bespoke suits from Cad and the Dandy that I've seen measure up very well against some much more expensive London tailors, and it seems clear than Suit Supply is ripping up the rulebook as far as OTR suits are concerned - there have been a number of fits posted on this forum where I've thought 'wow' and it has turned out to be Suit Supply. And we all know that Kiton and some other very fashionable (albeit, yes, very well-constructed) high-end OTR suits are overpriced for what you are actually getting - because they know that people will pay for the relative exclusivity.

This is a good point (though in fairness one must consider how things like in photos vs. in real life). More expensive suits tend to be made of better fabrics, though I am sure there are some outliers and it is not completely linear. As for fit, there are some men who need to pay for bespoke to get an ideal fit and others who fit very well into MTM or OTR. Great fit can be the result of paying a lot for a great tailor or a result of fitting well into MTM or a particular OTR style. Perhaps the real question should be how many of us can tell if a guy is wearing a well made suit that fits.
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