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٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ - Page 2301

post #34501 of 36394
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post


I think the brand is best thought of as a bold and experimental approach to tailoring, especially concerning fabrics. It's not meant for the kind of people who think of wearing navy trousers as breaking some kind of rule. Perhaps it's for a younger crowd who enjoy tailoring, but not a traditional style?

I personally like their approach and many of their concepts, but in practice I feel their garments are pretty hit and miss with the majority being misses. The brand is interesting in the sense that it is sold in both fashion forward and conceptual stores and traditional tailoring shops in Europe, much like their previous brand Boglioli. Due to this, the brand can appear very different depending on who did the buying. For example, you never see anyone buy the more experimental fabrics in Sweden, it's all navy blazers and grey suits. I personally appreciate how I have seen the Japanese wear it, and I hope to see the brand flourish as it develops.

 

 

The brand is a far cry from navy trousers. More like double breasted mauve corduroy suits. Seems like something Lapo Elkann would wear.

I see the goods appearing regularly at boutiques that I would describe as catering to non Italian men infatuated with the idea of being Italian gigolos, e.g., the entire ethic behind the magazine LEON, a kind of minstresly of Italian sprezzatura. I found the quality (just touching it) to be totally mediocre for the price point, which also seems to be priced at Lapo Elkann levels for no reason.

post #34502 of 36394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

I personally like their approach and many of their concepts, but in practice I feel their garments are pretty hit and miss with the majority being misses. The brand is interesting in the sense that it is sold in both fashion forward and conceptual stores and traditional tailoring shops in Europe, much like their previous brand Boglioli. Due to this, the brand can appear very different depending on who did the buying. For example, you never see anyone buy the more experimental fabrics in Sweden, it's all navy blazers and grey suits. I personally appreciate how I have seen the Japanese wear it, and I hope to see the brand flourish as it develops.

I would agree with a lot of that. When they show it at Pitti, they don't really show or highlight the more "boring" stuff that you can see at some stores now. The focus is always on outrageous fabrics with strong emphasis on bouclé stuff, Ferla fabrics, etc... quite often really missing the mark on taste; but because of the family's past and huge reach with Boglioli, they had an instant mass of Italian retailers hovering and somehow supporting the brand.

I think that someone like Kamoshita takes a lot of risks with ambitious fabrics but knows how to edit it into something tasteful. I don't think that The Gigi is there yet - and unfortunately they missed the boat on peacocky menswear. This time has passed and tailored clothing is back to its "normal" audience.
post #34503 of 36394
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post


I see the goods appearing regularly at boutiques that I would describe as catering to non Italian men infatuated with the idea of being Italian gigolos, e.g., the entire ethic behind the magazine LEON, a kind of minstresly of Italian sprezzatura.

Interesting. My perception if the brand has been shaped by Trunk, Nitty Gritty and Kafka. It might not be for everyone, but I quite like some of the things I see there, although I have yet to buy anything from them. It certainly does not feel like italian gigolo style to me.

I think that with some restraint and focus the brand can turn into something interesting. It can just as easily go the other way though.
post #34504 of 36394
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post


Interesting. My perception if the brand has been shaped by Trunk, Nitty Gritty and Kafka. It might not be for everyone, but I quite like some of the things I see there, although I have yet to buy anything from them. It certainly does not feel like italian gigolo style to me.

I think that with some restraint and focus the brand can turn into something interesting. It can just as easily go the other way though.

 

Yeah, those buys are wildly different from the bonkers LSD trip stuff I encountered. Funny how a different buy can so drastically alter the outcome

The ones you linked look more like unemployed stevedore than Italian gigolo. All things being equal, I would rather be an Italian gigolo, employed or otherwise, than a stevedore.

post #34505 of 36394
First I've heard of The Gigi. Looks like they make classic Chanel jackets for men, basically.

Some of the product shots remind me of the myriad eBay sellers who try to pass off 3 button jackets as 3-roll-2.
post #34506 of 36394
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

What a question.  Do you really think that we would sell two different levels of construction with no appreciable difference other than the fact that one is more expensive than the other?   What would that be, some sort of social experiment?   A blatant attempt to gouge our customers?

There is a significant difference between the two levels - one has hand-stitching everywhere, hand-rolled hem, etc... white the other has 5 hand passes.  That's a couple of hours of extra hand-work by one of the seamstresses in the workshop.  


The pattern is exactly the same and the parts that count for fit (collar and shoulder attachment) are done by hand on both - so there should be no difference in fit or drape.   There should also be no specific difference in how long they will last - that's a matter of how shirts are maintained and cared for.  The feel and longevity is also a matter of the fabric quality.  We use great fabrics from the best shirting mills for both types of shirts,  but for the most expensive fabrics, we tend to go with the handmade construction to do them justice.

The difference is not psychological at all - it is tangible and objective.  The end product is different and more expensive to make.  Whether the difference is worth it is up to each person and what they care about.    Nothing wrong with the partially handmade Inglese - they're fantastic shirts and IMO the best one can find for that value.   Most of our customers have a mix of both.

My sincerest apologizes. It seems my query was very poorly worded. I did not in any way mean to suggest that you were gouging/misleading your customers. The differences between the two level of handwork is helpfully and clearly stated on the respective product pages of both type of shirts on your website. I can fully appreciate that the additional handwork will cost more as there is substantially more man hours spent constructing the garment. I was just interested in the practical benefits of it all. My memory is probably faulty but I seem to recall someone mentioning that hand stitching has more give (stretch) thus rendering a hand sewn garment more comfortable to wear. I have no idea if this is true or an urban legend and thus my ill-fated foray into this thread.

I have a G Inglese shirt from the lower tier of handwork from your store which has quickly become a favourite. I was trying to decide whether or not to go up a level.
post #34507 of 36394
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

I have no experience with G. Inglese, but I own shirts which span from almost fully handmade (Truzzi, Mozzarelli, both on MTM) to partially (Mastai Ferreti, MTM) to fully machine made, cheaper (but still nice) shirts. Whether or not anything is hand made doesn't matter at all in terms of how the shirt feels or lasts. That is entirely decided by the fabric and fit according to my experience. Many stitches are also better done my machine than by hand.

Some people like the idea that their clothes are handmade, and that they are supporting artisans, however.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

To me hand made shirt is a bit like well done button hole (by hand), doesn't make the clothe better. Quality, fit or longevity is the same either way, it's simply do you appreciate it or not is the fundamental question (and are you willing to pay up for it, I personally don't though I'm pretty sure plenty would)

Quote:
Originally Posted by razl View Post


The blog "Made by Hand - The Great Sartorial Debate" covered this in great detail recently - the romance, practicality, and implications of handmade versus not in today's world - here. As with all of his posts, very worth reading.

Thank you all for your reply gents. Greatly appreciated.
post #34508 of 36394
I tried to search but no luck, do the Norwegian Rain liners zip or button in to the shell? And can the liner be worn stand alone?
post #34509 of 36394
Thread Starter 

New Drakes and Calabrese ties are up online

 

Created with GIMP

 

post #34510 of 36394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by veloaudio View Post

I tried to search but no luck, do the Norwegian Rain liners zip or button in to the shell? And can the liner be worn stand alone?

 

They zip and would look really off worn as standalone - they're not design as such and they have no collar area

 

post #34511 of 36394
Which maker is the third tie from the top, right-most column?
post #34512 of 36394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawyerdad View Post

Which maker is the third tie from the top, right-most column?

 

This one

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/heather-grey-self-tipped-pure-cashmere-tie.html

post #34513 of 36394
@gdl203

Greg, a fabulous tie assortment!

Are there any news concerning F/W Calabrese pocket squares, and F/W Sozzi knit ties?

Cheers,

Dimitris
post #34514 of 36394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke DJP View Post

@gdl203

Greg, a fabulous tie assortment!

Are there any news concerning F/W Calabrese pocket squares, and F/W Sozzi knit ties?

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

Thanks 

 

No new Calabrese pocket square this season, other than a simple white linen square to cover the basics

 

Sozzi ties are almost all received (couple of styles expected in October) and we'll be shooting them and adding to the site in the next week or two

post #34515 of 36394
Thank you for your reply.

Great news! I am looking forward to checking them.

Best,

Dimitris
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