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٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ - Page 2115

post #31711 of 36421
Thread Starter 

Pre-order links are now live

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/358758/no-man-walks-alone-official-affiliate-thread/31600_100#post_8392377

post #31712 of 36421
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaconne View Post


Do you know what fabrics the Sal trousers will be available in yet?

 

Yes, only cream woven silk (same fabric as the shawl collar dinner jacket).  A third fabric we picked was cancelled at production

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Hell yeah! One small question... would you be open (I understand if not) to making the Minnis houndstooth with the spalla manica a camicia rather than morbida? I understand if not... but it would make it slightly different from the last iteration, and I think you have a similar configuration with yours.

 

Yes, definitely possible if those who want to pre-order prefer that

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Grady Cole View Post

@gdl203 did you guys pick up the "Augosto" shirt jacket from Eidos? I think you only carry their tailored stuff but it sounds like it might fall into that category.

 

No we don't have that.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by hrv123 View Post

Curious what you mean by working the shoulder seam. I'd like to give it a try.

 

Hard to explain well but, if you look at the sleevehead, you will notice that the canvas piece extends a bit past the seam.   It is rather stiff and creates that puffiness at the shoulder.  With wear and as the sleeve tugs on the seam, it softens and takes a rounder shape.  You can accelerate that process by rolling it between your fingers to give it a softer edge. 

post #31713 of 36421
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Yes, definitely possible if those who want to pre-order prefer that

My pre-order for that one would - unfortunately - be contingent on that. Unfortunately, the Morbida are just slightly too small for me, the Camicia a Manica allow me a bit more space to maneuver.

Let me know what the word is on that! Some great choices for pre-orders... like, really great.

And the Lesser 13oz is a spectacular cloth. I have the birdseye, and it is fantastic. Wears like armor.
post #31714 of 36421
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
 

Hard to explain well but, if you look at the sleevehead, you will notice that the canvas piece extends a bit past the seam.   It is rather stiff and creates that puffiness at the shoulder.  With wear and as the sleeve tugs on the seam, it softens and takes a rounder shape.  You can accelerate that process by rolling it between your fingers to give it a softer edge. 

 

I've also done this with pretty good results.

post #31715 of 36421
Preordered the H. Lesser birdseye suit in 50L, which is what size my navy Drago (I believe) birdseye is. Was the perfect interview suit, so I figured a second birdseye in another staple color wouldn't be outrageous...

I still need to get on sending my Loro Piana gun club fabric in for a MTO... I ordered enough of the Minnis houndstooth for a sport coat, but now I'm wondering if there is any left for me to get the length needed for some pants and make it a suit.

I'm also very interested in seeing what the Inglese tuxedo shirt looks like, knowing how well the shirts fit me. I am a bit particular about my tuxedo shirt cuffs, so I hope it's got single cuffs and not french, so I can just buy it and get the sleeves altered instead of having to go full MTM!
post #31716 of 36421
Thread Starter 

It has French cuffs (I'm also particular about my evening shirts ;))

post #31717 of 36421

This question is so dumb that I can't even frame it well - books for shirting - how do I know which one to request? If I give a shirt I like from current offerings, is it possible to find out the book from it? :puzzled:

post #31718 of 36421
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sood View Post
 

This question is so dumb that I can't even frame it well - books for shirting - how do I know which one to request? If I give a shirt I like from current offerings, is it possible to find out the book from it? :puzzled:

 

For shirting, we'll bring the G. Inglese MTM books.  Those were pre-selected by Angelo Inglese and Tessuteria Monti for the MTM program.  We''ll also bring a couple of other Albini fabric cards (additional oxford options)

 

We can typically also do MTM with same fabrics as the RTW offerings - but not always - it depends on fabric stock

post #31719 of 36421
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krish the Fish View Post

I ordered enough of the Minnis houndstooth for a sport coat, but now I'm wondering if there is any left for me to get the length needed for some pants and make it a suit.
 

 

There should be - another option if you'd like would be to pre-order from the FW16 pre-order link I posted and we can cancel your fabric order.  

post #31720 of 36421
Thread Starter 

Final shipment of Inglese shirts are up (polo shirts should land in 7-10 days now)

 

 

 

 

post #31721 of 36421

I hope people won't mind, I have a style question about the Minnis houndstooth. (Backstory here is I have a length of the fabric on order, which I'll either have made up as a Formosa MTO, or I'll hop on the Formosa pre-order in the same fabric, and sell off my length). I was considering having the jacket made up with spalla manica a camicia and, perhaps, patch hip pockets, with the thought being to play up the rakish potential of the fabric. In my environment, departing from the suit-as-standard-uniform look is definitely desirable, but I wouldn't want the departure to end up looking incoherent. Thoughts? Would this be too much, and I'd be better off with the pre-order configuration?

post #31722 of 36421
Tux shirt is mine.

On Formosa HT, standard config incl. morbida shoulders would be my choice. Don't think it suits patch pockets or camicia somehow.
post #31723 of 36421

@gdl203 - I am really interested in the Drapers dark emerald green wool/cashmere herringbone sport coat - 9/10 oz. Will that weight + the wool/cashmere combination be warm enough for fall/winters in New England?

 

Also, just to clarify in regards to how dark it is, is this fabric going to be a pretty dark green - along the lines of forest green?

 

Lastly, I have a Sartoria Formosa jacket in 36R - the Navy mohair & wool blazer 10/11oz. Will the Drapers sport coat be very smilar in fit as this one? I went to my tailor today and he said that the shoulder is a good fit, but the waist is a tad bit tight - he recommends to let it out a bit. There is nothing wrong with this procedure, yes? I really like the jacket but I don't want the jeopordize the jacket! He is a skilled tailor... haven't messed up on any request yet... knock on wood ;)

 

Thanks so much in advance for taking the time to answer these questions! :)

post #31724 of 36421
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tee84 View Post
 

I hope people won't mind, I have a style question about the Minnis houndstooth. (Backstory here is I have a length of the fabric on order, which I'll either have made up as a Formosa MTO, or I'll hop on the Formosa pre-order in the same fabric, and sell off my length). I was considering having the jacket made up with spalla manica a camicia and, perhaps, patch hip pockets, with the thought being to play up the rakish potential of the fabric. In my environment, departing from the suit-as-standard-uniform look is definitely desirable, but I wouldn't want the departure to end up looking incoherent. Thoughts? Would this be too much, and I'd be better off with the pre-order configuration?

 

I think that the spalla camicia works fine but I don't know how I feel about patches on that cloth.  And this is coming from someone who likes patches on suits.   I just find patches on suit to work better on solid or quasi solid fabrics (grey flannel, navy flannel, grey fresco...).  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by parkman24 View Post
 

@gdl203 - I am really interested in the Drapers dark emerald green wool/cashmere herringbone sport coat - 9/10 oz. Will that weight + the wool/cashmere combination be warm enough for fall/winters in New England?

 

Also, just to clarify in regards to how dark it is, is this fabric going to be a pretty dark green - along the lines of forest green?

 

Lastly, I have a Sartoria Formosa jacket in 36R - the Navy mohair & wool blazer 10/11oz. Will the Drapers sport coat be very smilar in fit as this one? I went to my tailor today and he said that the shoulder is a good fit, but the waist is a tad bit tight - he recommends to let it out a bit. There is nothing wrong with this procedure, yes? I really like the jacket but I don't want the jeopordize the jacket! He is a skilled tailor... haven't messed up on any request yet... knock on wood ;)

 

Thanks so much in advance for taking the time to answer these questions! :)

 

With the cashmere content it probably wears more like 11/12 oz, but for true winter temperatures, you would definitely need an overcoat on top.  

 

It is quite dark of a color in person.  It is gorgeous - I looked through a lot of swatches before picking this particular green.  It is not as earthy as one would think when talking about "forest green", although those color names are rather subjective.

 

The fit should be similar to the navy/mohair jacket, although I think that this particular series was made a slight bit narrower in the chest and waist than the normal measurements. 

 

Nothing wrong with letting out the waist, it's one of the easiest and most benign alterations on a jacket.

post #31725 of 36421
I am partial to the flap pockets and shirtsleeve shoulders, for reasons stated above - that is the configuration in Greg's pic, FWIW.
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