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٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ - Page 1894

post #28396 of 36538
occasionally I am interested in sport coats made by companies other than eidos (shocker I know haha).

Any size advice for me specifically in Cantarelli? I'm a solid 52 in any Eidos fit. Based on measurements seems like I could do 54 in cantarelli (I need at least 30" in length).

Ive already determined if I ever want to/can try Formosa I'd probably be a 50R.

Grazie!
post #28397 of 36538
^ Try 52L in Cantarelli. In my experience the shoulders and chest will work but you'll need to bring in the waist. The length should be good.
post #28398 of 36538
Thread Starter 
Agreed. 52L
post #28399 of 36538
By the way, Greg do you guys recommend any particular tailor for suit alterations

Edit: In NYC of course
post #28400 of 36538
Thread Starter 
We used to recommend Wilfred who sadly passed away. We now recommend Sam Wazin who does a lot of work with Eidos and Isaia.
post #28401 of 36538
Wilfred died? That is quite upsetting. He will be missed.
post #28402 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

I spent like an hour with photos of each season of Eidos jackets from NMWA starting with Lorenzo, then the SS15 collection and the FW15 murl and I have, importing each into Illustrator and tracing with vector lines the shape and curve of the lapel through the hem as closely as I could.
 

 

I enjoy the fact that you did this... awesome.

post #28403 of 36538
Greg...

Happy holidays. Sent you an email/PM.

AP
post #28404 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I really wish I could see that analysis Moss. I think that would be very nice. I love those hyper-nerdy aspects of these discussions.

Regardless -- Murl and Moss -- I think they both look excellent. Moss, I think both cuts work very well for you. Murl, I am curious to see how bespoke works for you, because this looks just phenomenal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by STL Metropolis View Post

I enjoy the fact that you did this... awesome.

Ask and you shall receive.

Used a blending mode on the lines so that you can see through them and see the contrast where the edge of the lapel is, and judge how well I did following the curve.
AW14 Lorenzo (Click to show)
AW14 Lorenzo
SS15 NMWA First Season in raw silk (Click to show)
SS15 NMWA First Season in raw silk
AW15 NMWA Second Season in gun club (Click to show)
AW15 NMWA Second Season in gun club


And our control (not super fair because the pic's angle and the pose is so different, but this is the image that's been burned in my head since originally seeing it years ago that made me covet the Liverano silhouette, and which is what cause me such great excitement when the Lorenzo cut was first made). Liverano (Click to show)
Liverano on MC
post #28405 of 36538
AW14 Lorenzo & SS15 raw silk are gorgeous. I think buttoning points on those sit lower than the Liverano, and from what I've seen of his work, the lapel roll is almost 3D, but visually those are the only differences that stand out.

I do think the greater arc of lapel-quarter on the earlier Eidos makes a longer jacket look more balanced than say the latest cut, but that is strictly MY preference. I think the Eidos fabric selection has always been on point. Love the current season's patterns.

Moss,

Would love to see this analysis with a Formosa piece.
post #28406 of 36538
Ok so I have been putting off purchasing the Sage de Cret Rabbit fishtail parka all season due to the warm weather we have been having. But I am not sure I can let this get away. Just to confirm, is the consensus view to size up or go TTS? Does the rabbit fur shed a lot? Thanks in advance.
post #28407 of 36538

Does the cotton/wool inglese shirt have a pocket? I'm looking for a warmer winter shirt, is it fair to call it a dressy/smart flannel?

post #28408 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

Ok so I have been putting off purchasing the Sage de Cret Rabbit fishtail parka all season due to the warm weather we have been having. But I am not sure I can let this get away. Just to confirm, is the consensus view to size up or go TTS? Does the rabbit fur shed a lot? Thanks in advance.

Size up one (but as usual check measurements). Fur sheds a little, but nowhere near the amount that it did last year. It's almost negligible unless you're wearing a black sweater underneath. 

post #28409 of 36538
@JIMB

99.9% sure not. Nice shirt, nonetheless.
post #28410 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by baltimoron View Post

Size up one (but as usual check measurements). Fur sheds a little, but nowhere near the amount that it did last year. It's almost negligible unless you're wearing a black sweater underneath. 

this. I almost don't see any shedding. It's my favorite outwear piece ever hands down. These rabbits are magic.
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