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٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ - Page 1890

post #28336 of 36538
What are the things your not crazy about? A tiny bit of waist suppression might be all you need...still looks good as is. I should have mine on Wednesday. Thanks for posting.
post #28337 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaconne View Post

Is one of them a shoulder extension?

Shoulders seem about the same to me, actually (this has far less grinze on the sleeve cap, which is one definite change Antonio said he made, and which is fine with me).

Buttoning point is 1cm higher. Lapels don't curve at all when it's buttoned, which kind of eliminates the swooping half-circle effect this cut was going for. And the notch seems different somehow (though this might be due to visual distortion from the pattern).

For comparison, look at this SS15 raw silk jacket.

post #28338 of 36538
Agree that @mossrockss looks good. Sorry if this sounds pedantic, but if you haven't you might want to see how the jacket looks and feels with wool trousers as well, unless you'll mostly be wearing it with jeans. For me at least, even if I tell myself "I'm just checking the jacket fit and will ignore everything else", the different feel and visual lines of jeans makes a big difference in assessing how a jacket looks and feels.
post #28339 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post


Sprout, this is a very rude statement. And then, you go on to say "so don't take it personally". facepalm.gif

 

English is not my first language so sorry if I misused that one. My understanding is that it means a remark intended to misdirect from the main point? I don't think this is "very rude," but sorry if it is. I took issue with Greg's argument, but not with him personally. I think he is a cool guy.

post #28340 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

What are the things your not crazy about? A tiny bit of waist suppression might be all you need...still looks good as is. I should have mine on Wednesday. Thanks for posting.

Yeah the waist suppression is one thing I'm considering, which I haven't needed done on any of my Eidos jackets so far. I probably lost 10 pounds here recently during a hospital stay (though the way I'm eating right now that won't stay off very long lol), so possibly I'll fill it out a bit more here soon
post #28341 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

Yeah the waist suppression is one thing I'm considering, which I haven't needed done on any of my Eidos jackets so far. I probably lost 10 pounds here recently during a hospital stay (though the way I'm eating right now that won't stay off very long lol), so possibly I'll fill it out a bit more here soon

I definitely see the difference in the lapel "sweep". I like them both and think this one looks really nice on you. Hope you're doing alright (re hospital).
post #28342 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawyerdad View Post

Agree that @mossrockss looks good. Sorry if this sounds pedantic, but if you haven't you might want to see how the jacket looks and feels with wool trousers as well, unless you'll mostly be wearing it with jeans. For me at least, even if I tell myself "I'm just checking the jacket fit and will ignore everything else", the different feel and visual lines of jeans makes a big difference in assessing how a jacket looks and feels.

Solid advice. I've worn it a bunch already with various pants—chinos (by far and away what I wear most of the time), flannel trousers and jeans today. Ha, I even had it on when we saw Star Wars Thursday night, as I went straight from work. Mostly my concerns are unchanged
post #28343 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

I definitely see the difference in the lapel "sweep". I like them both and think this one looks really nice on you. Hope you're doing alright (re hospital).

Thanks, doing fine! I feel like it came with a fairly hard lapel press, instead of a nice, natural roll, and that's making the difference. The button hole is pretty stiff and kind of forces it to the crease at the second button.
post #28344 of 36538

For what it's worth, I think the quarters on the guncheck are more flattering on you than either of your other two.  See your point about the lapels. 

post #28345 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post


Lapels don't curve at all when it's buttoned, which kind of eliminates the swooping half-circle effect this cut was going for.

I noticed this on the tenero garments from this season as well. Isaia produced all our tailoring this fall, not Michelangelo and I think that plays a part. While the patterns didn't change the people that cut the garments did and that can effect the final outlook. FWIW I think the jacket looks great on you.
post #28346 of 36538
Thread Starter 
@mossrockss you can definitely improve the roll of the lapel by either pressing it to end a little bit higher (just above the button) or simply by storing it with the collar popped and the lapels unfolded onto one another. Leaving it like this for a few days will get rid of a hard crease that may have flattened it. The lapels this season don't have the same negative belly as previous seasons (production differences that were specific to this season) but they still look quite nice on you. I also prefer the shape below the button on this season's version of the NMWA cut - longer, more elegant shape of the quarter swoop (mostly because of the slightly higher buttoning point).

On fit, it looks like you have a lower right shoulder and as a consequence, you'll see a little bit of "messy" folds on the right side at the waist. The effect is accentuated by patterns like checks and stripes, and by very soft, lightly structured tailoring. I also have a low right shoulder and it used to drive me nuts - I had tailors try all sorts of things from taking in the shoulder seam to adding light padding. At the end of the day, it was wasted time and energy - I came to terms with my body's asymmetry and I don't care anymore.

Look at the left half of your jacket - it's a great fit, nice shape and no real issue to note (the sleeve pitch is a few degrees off, but not too noticeable).



Now the right half shows the lower shoulder's effect at the waist.

post #28347 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

I noticed this on the tenero garments from this season as well. Isaia produced all our tailoring this fall, not Michelangelo and I think that plays a part. While the patterns didn't change the people that cut the garments did and that can effect the final outlook. FWIW I think the jacket looks great on you.

Interesting. Any advice on getting the lapel to roll a little more nicely? I fear steam.

And maybe chalk it up to the 1cm tolerance you've mentioned, but this buttoning point is definitely higher.
post #28348 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

@mossrockss you can definitely improve the roll of the lapel by either pressing it to end a little bit higher (just above the button) or simply by storing it with the collar popped and the lapels unfolded onto one another. Leaving it like this for a few days will get rid of a hard crease that may have flattened it. The lapels this season don't have the same negative belly as previous seasons (production differences that were specific to this season) but they still look quite nice on you. I also prefer the shape below the button on this season's version of the NMWA cut - longer, more elegant shape of the quarter swoop (mostly because of the slightly higher buttoning point).

haha, i knew it!

glad to know i'm not crazy lol

i'm sure the more i wear it, the better it will drape on me.

one very specific thing that made me adore the NMWA cut is that negative belly on the lapel—that then continues into the quarters gently with a perfect roll. duh, it's the florentine look, there's a reason it's popular/famous. to me, that design inspiration is absolutely critical to making a jacket with lapels this wide not look like a cheesy 1970s jacket—which I always think look like flaps that you hide a chicken wing underneath or something lol. hence my dismay when first putting this thing on—less gentle crease (which I'll attribute to sitting in a box for 3-4 days before I was able to take it out and hang it), no curve to the lapel, and a higher buttoning point that accentuates it all.

i'll give your tricks a try to see how it makes me feel. i have come to really love last season's jacket; it's kind of my gold standard and i expected more or less a carbon copy made with a different fabric.
post #28349 of 36538
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

I love your store. Frankly I am surprised that there is no equivalent in Europe. Any chance you would ever consider a european store? I want much of what you sell, but seems crazy to have something shipped to the US from Italy and then to Sweden, with everything that means in terms of customs and shipping.

 

I've done it three times (I think), and while the customs suck but the pain can be mitigated by taking advantage of sales. 

post #28350 of 36538
for what it's worth, a robo-pose.
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