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Eidos Napoli - Page 363

post #5431 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post


I developed the patterns and the primo has never existed with any bemberg on the inside. The jacket in the photo is a tipo. You can also tell because the shoulder has more structure than the primo, which is completely soft with grinze. The only thing I can think of is that the jacket pictured is not what you will receive if you order.

As for model breakdowns, Ive done this before. If you search my posts you can find it.

 

Wow, very interesting! Not to question your knowledge on your own product, but this is the picture he sent, a Primo tag with Bemberg lining? Just trying to figure out his items before I take a plunge.

 

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

post #5432 of 6324

For everyone again @sebastian mcfox

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post


Tipo—mostly dead. Supposedly some small specialty shops carry it still. No clue which. One of the most conservative cuts. 3-button. More classic length. Natural shoulder, but not totally unpadded (if you can call what it has pads—mostly just the canvas plus a little extra. Maybe even just another lay of canvas in the shoulder is almost what it feels like). Tipo (Click to show)

Tenero—the main cut you'll find nowadays. Carried by most places that carry Eidos. 3-button. Less padding than the Tipo in the shoulder (i.e. almost none at all—just a lightweight canvas going up from the chest through the shoulder). More contemporary, shorter length. Slightly more open quarters than Tipo. Tenero (Click to show)



Notice one is shorter than the other. I've found length to be pretty inconsistent, by as much as 3/4". The shorter length is generally considered the length it's supposed to be, though.

Lorenzo—defunct. Sold only for one season (FW14). 3-button. Wider shoulders. Swooping, curving, 4-inch lapel inspired by Florentine tailor Liverano. Lorenzo (Click to show)

Ciro—descendent of the Lorenzo. afaik only Marcus Malmborg in Sweden carries it, at least insofar as he does MTM. Lapels still swoop and curve but the quarters have been closed up a bit more, and other modifications. Ciro via Andreas Weinas on Instagram (Click to show)

NMWA—the other descendent of the Lorenzo, except modified specifically by Greg Lellouche and Antonio and sold exclusively by NMWA. It started as essentially the same as the Ciro, but has since deviated. 3-button. Lapels are now straight-cut. Length is longer than Ciro. Shoulders feel like they've been brought in as well (someone would have to confirm, but that's how it feels to me). NMWA (Click to show)


^^This is SS15 NMWA cut^^



^^This is FW15 NMWA cut^^



^^This is SS16 NMWA cut^^

Primo—slimmest of the cuts, from my understanding. Similar to Tenero otherwise. 3-button. Not sure what else is different besides slimness. Primo (Click to show)

Balthazar—the cut that Bloomingdales carries now. Based on the Tipo, but shorter, and 2-button, with a slightly bellied lapel.

I have no images of this to show. Maybe somebody else does!

Lavato—the completely unstructured, washed blazers, which I don't think are produced anymore.

No images of this either... Somebody else?
post #5433 of 6324
The Lavato sounds interesting. I've always wanted a longer LBM 1911 type jacket.
post #5434 of 6324
There was another model that I recently got to wear for a day. No clue what it was called. You can find references in old pics on Antonio's IG. The one I tried was a DB and belted. Had belt loops at the back side seams.

Pic without the belt. It had a "sprezzhook" inside to let you do the Pitti look of the folded right lapel thing haha.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


post #5435 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

There was another model that I recently got to wear for a day. No clue what it was called. You can find references in old pics on Antonio's IG. The one I tried was a DB and belted. Had belt loops at the back side seams.

Pic without the belt. It had a "sprezzhook" inside to let you do the Pitti look of the folded right lapel thing haha.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Hubba hubba, nice jacket. Where did you try that beauty, and was there a 50r/40r available?
smile.gif
post #5436 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Easily Amused View Post

Hubba hubba, nice jacket. Where did you try that beauty, and was there a 50r/40r available?
smile.gif

Lol it belongs to a friend who bought it before even I was really buying Eidos. He let me wear it for a day when we were visiting.
post #5437 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

Lol it belongs to a friend who bought it before even I was really buying Eidos. He let me wear it for a day when we were visiting.

D'oh, what a tease!
post #5438 of 6324
so nobody has responded to my super well-researched question about how bloomingdales compares to random other shop... j/k, so after reading through all these fits i still can't figure out which one is this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEv3NAHvTeY/ or slideshow: http://www.trunkclothiers.com/journal/index.php/eidos-napoli-ss16-at-trunk

as i recently procured this suit on a whim and it fit so well i immediately ordered one of those bloomingdales ones (for a frankly ridiculously low price after the site allowed me to double-up on codes) and an ulster overcoat, neither of which i will see until my next stateside visit in a couple months. hopefully the fit is close, particularly in the shoulder.

on another note, what are people doing about the buttons? the only people in my area who can do buttonholes are bespoke tailors and i've only found one who is willing to do it, but only a few months from now..
post #5439 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by freedom_fries View Post

so nobody has responded to my super well-researched question about how bloomingdales compares to random other shop... j/k, so after reading through all these fits i still can't figure out which one is this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEv3NAHvTeY/ or slideshow: http://www.trunkclothiers.com/journal/index.php/eidos-napoli-ss16-at-trunk

as i recently procured this suit on a whim and it fit so well i immediately ordered one of those bloomingdales ones (for a frankly ridiculously low price after the site allowed me to double-up on codes) and an ulster overcoat, neither of which i will see until my next stateside visit in a couple months. hopefully the fit is close, particularly in the shoulder.

on another note, what are people doing about the buttons? the only people in my area who can do buttonholes are bespoke tailors and i've only found one who is willing to do it, but only a few months from now..

what do you mean? Bloomingdales used to carry Tipo (3 roll to 2), now it's all Balthazar (2 button and shorter and slightly narrower lapel), pretty sure everything you see online in Bloomingdales are all Balthazar, though sometimes you can still find Tipo in store (in some discount rack). For buttons, easy, non-working..., I never find much usefulness with working button, the only time I bother with working button is bespoke... or if it's a no charge option for MtM (doesn't happen these days or I don't think)
post #5440 of 6324
sorry, i meant which fit is the trunk suit. i did manage to figure out that the bloomingdales is balthazar...
post #5441 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by freedom_fries View Post

sorry, i meant which fit is the trunk suit. i did manage to figure out that the bloomingdales is balthazar...
Trunk carries Tenero (they also have Augusto, but that is a completely unstructured shirt-jacket style; I'd be amazed if that was made into a suit)
post #5442 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

There was another model that I recently got to wear for a day. No clue what it was called. You can find references in old pics on Antonio's IG. The one I tried was a DB and belted. Had belt loops at the back side seams.

Pic without the belt. It had a "sprezzhook" inside to let you do the Pitti look of the folded right lapel thing haha. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

@NickPollica I'd love to hear your side of the story of this look. Brian Cook might have been the first to do it, but Victor DeLeon (of Cucinelli, dont know if you know him) says that Cookie got it from him after he saw it on a window mannequin in Firenze.

post #5443 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

There was another model that I recently got to wear for a day. No clue what it was called. You can find references in old pics on Antonio's IG. The one I tried was a DB and belted. Had belt loops at the back side seams.

Pic without the belt. It had a "sprezzhook" inside to let you do the Pitti look of the folded right lapel thing haha. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Nice loafers.

 

Details please? Thanks.
 

post #5444 of 6324
Quote:
Originally Posted by metranger8694 View Post
 

Nice loafers.

 

Details please? Thanks.
 

 

i think they're aldens

post #5445 of 6324

Ah, yeah. Maybe unlined snuff suede Aldens.

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