or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Eidos Napoli
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Eidos Napoli - Page 362

post #5416 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

The balthazar is 1cm shorter in the body with a slightly narrower, bellied lapel and a two button closure. Its basically the Isaia Gregory and it existed well before I started. I made the tipo longer with a better lapel but it just didn't sell at full retail. I fought with every store about it for two years and finally gave in. The tenero has the same lapel as the tipo - its just 1 cm shorter, unlined with a completely soft shoulder. I think its the most versatile model we make.

Tenero is perfect.
post #5417 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

The balthazar is 1cm shorter in the body with a slightly narrower, bellied lapel and a two button closure. Its basically the Isaia Gregory and it existed well before I started. I made the tipo longer with a better lapel but it just didn't sell at full retail. I fought with every store about it for two years and finally gave in. The tenero has the same lapel as the tipo - its just 1 cm shorter, unlined with a completely soft shoulder. I think its the most versatile model we make.

I would think theses changes are minor to the general public (and maybe even buyers). You mean to say a Bloomingdales shopper looking for a suit would pass up an Eidos model based on 1cm length, shape of a lapel, and the third button? I would think these are apparent and more relevant to a more informed crowd like those on SF. This a result of looking at the data/sales numbers?
post #5418 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by teddieriley View Post

I would think theses changes are minor to the general public (and maybe even buyers). You mean to say a Bloomingdales shopper looking for a suit would pass up an Eidos model based on 1cm length, shape of a lapel, and the third button? I would think these are apparent and more relevant to a more informed crowd like those on SF. Interesting...

If you could see the the difference in our sell through numbers you'd be very surprised. The 3 button alone makes selling tailoring in bloomingdales basically impossible and the 98% of the sellers on the floor think that "the young guys" want to wear shorter jackets with narrow lapels. What funny is that this opinion is almost exclusively help by sellers that are 50+. Basically every "classic" tailoring store thinks that is what it takes to sell tailoring to a younger customer.
post #5419 of 6284

Are the cotton knit ties supposed to be 64" long or did mine get stretched somehow? Even at 6' 2" and with a double four in hand I can't wear them.


Edited by ChetB - 9/11/16 at 9:30pm
post #5420 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by teddieriley View Post

I would think theses changes are minor to the general public (and maybe even buyers). You mean to say a Bloomingdales shopper looking for a suit would pass up an Eidos model based on 1cm length, shape of a lapel, and the third button? I would think these are apparent and more relevant to a more informed crowd like those on SF. This a result of looking at the data/sales numbers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

If you could see the the difference in our sell through numbers you'd be very surprised. The 3 button alone makes selling tailoring in bloomingdales basically impossible and the 98% of the sellers on the floor think that "the young guys" want to wear shorter jackets with narrow lapels. What funny is that this opinion is almost exclusively help by sellers that are 50+. Basically every "classic" tailoring store thinks that is what it takes to sell tailoring to a younger customer.
I totally believe this. Bloomie's SA's were always borderline shocked when I would skip over shorter, "hip" jackets and go for Tipos.

I always thought Tenero was slimmer in waist and shoulder, huh...

Speaking of Tipo, it was in action today
post #5421 of 6284
General public does know what they think look good or bad regardless true or not, and certainly don't care why (though lapel size, leg tapering 3 vs. 2 button what not tends to stand out), so what's in trend definitely factor in.

From my own personal experience wise Balthazar looks better on me than Tipo (yea I know it's just 0.5 inch difference in length), my theory is probably because I'm a short guy (5ft7in). I take EU 46R in Balthazar and EU 46S in Tipo so the difference might be even smaller. The Tipo I own is from either the very first or second season when Eidos just came to Bloomingdale while the Balthazar I own is from last season so might have something to do with the manufacture change as well.

Tipo on me just looks like another jacket that "fits" (or fits ish, shoulder is not that great) but nothing special (waist suppression looks like it's not truly there even though it's fairly suppressed). Balthazar just looks better, from shoulder to the overall fit, though it still fits different than Isaia Gregory I have to say.

I have tried NMWA in EU46R which works except just a bit too long. I have only tried Tenero in EU48R (from Saks, they don't carry EU46), and my gut feeling is Tenero or NMWA in EU46S is probably going to work out the best.

p.s. I'm not one of those guys who wants jacket to be super fitted, one of my favorite 3 roll to 2 jacket (and still is) is the old Ralph Lauren Polo II made by Corneliani (though arm hole can be higher), so if you ask me why Tipo doesn't work I wouldn't really be able to tell you other than it just looks plain for my body type. I do like the 3 roll to 2 and larger lapel on Tipo though.
post #5422 of 6284
Saw these - wondering if they were Tipo or Tenero..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferdsje View Post

If you're talking about this hospack jacket, I purchased this morning in eBay. Just take my Eidos jackets normal size (48us) but according to the online measures, I'm afraid could be small. If you want can post pics when received it
post #5423 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnguy001 View Post

Saw these - wondering if they were Tipo or Tenero..
90% sure not Tipo.

May be Primo or some other not-often-seen model. Seller has some Primos in other fabrics
post #5424 of 6284

There's some pretty good deals (very) on three styles of Eidos suits on Bloomingdales.com.   It doesn't specify whether they are short or regular... probably regular.  I'll see how it goes!  I just ordered the Gingham and the Tonal check.  I'm not certain that the Tonal check will actually fulfill though for ~$500 a pop.  The tonal check looks awesome... gingham looks nice too but I'm concerned maybe it'll be a little sheeny based on the photo (but I have yet to see an EIDOS suit that I don't love... so I guess I'm not that worried.)... may order the cross strap chukkas tomorrow.

post #5425 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnguy001 View Post

Saw these - wondering if they were Tipo or Tenero..

Tipo - None of the other models are ever available 1/4 lined.
post #5426 of 6284
If someone could go ahead and draw up a quick infographic of all the Eidos models that would be great. I keep losing track..
post #5427 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post


Tipo - None of the other models are ever available 1/4 lined.

 

seller told me it's a primo (and sent a picture of the tag - granted it could be a picture from another jacket)?

post #5428 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by YseanY View Post

seller told me it's a primo (and sent a picture of the tag - granted it could be a picture from another jacket)?

I developed the patterns and the primo has never existed with any bemberg on the inside. The jacket in the photo is a tipo. You can also tell because the shoulder has more structure than the primo, which is completely soft with grinze. The only thing I can think of is that the jacket pictured is not what you will receive if you order.

As for model breakdowns, Ive done this before. If you search my posts you can find it.
post #5429 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

I developed the patterns and the primo has never existed with any bemberg on the inside. The jacket in the photo is a tipo. You can also tell because the shoulder has more structure than the primo, which is completely soft with grinze. The only thing I can think of is that the jacket pictured is not what you will receive if you order.

As for model breakdowns, Ive done this before. If you search my posts you can find it.

Also the online jacket measures didn't look like a normal 48 jacket. Shoulder and large length sounds rare to me (43 And 72cm), much more like a 46 size. I didn't pay much atention for that because many times measures are not much accurate. Anyway, jacket it's on way home so, I will post impressions when finally arrives.

Thanks nickpollica for clarifying one more time
post #5430 of 6284
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

Tipo - None of the other models are ever available 1/4 lined.

Question answered.

Nevermind
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Eidos Napoli