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Eidos Napoli - Page 324

post #4846 of 6234

I'm sorry for my lack of remembering, but could someone do a breakdown of the jacket/suit fits as they are currently (Tenero, NMWA, Ciro, Tipo, etc)? I always seem to keep getting them mixed up and would be nice to get a refresher. 

post #4847 of 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas Knight View Post

I'm sorry for my lack of remembering, but could someone do a breakdown of the jacket/suit fits as they are currently (Tenero, NMWA, Ciro, Tipo, etc)? I always seem to keep getting them mixed up and would be nice to get a refresher. 

Tipo—mostly dead. Supposedly some small specialty shops carry it still. No clue which. One of the most conservative cuts. 3-button. More classic length. Natural shoulder, but not totally unpadded (if you can call what it has pads—mostly just the canvas plus a little extra. Maybe even just another lay of canvas in the shoulder is almost what it feels like).
Tipo (Click to show)

Tenero—the main cut you'll find nowadays. Carried by most places that carry Eidos. 3-button. Less padding than the Tipo in the shoulder (i.e. almost none at all—just a lightweight canvas going up from the chest through the shoulder). More contemporary, shorter length. Slightly more open quarters than Tipo.
Tenero (Click to show)



Notice one is shorter than the other. I've found length to be pretty inconsistent, by as much as 3/4". The shorter length is generally considered the length it's supposed to be, though.

Lorenzo—defunct. Sold only for one season (FW14). 3-button. Wider shoulders. Swooping, curving, 4-inch lapel inspired by Florentine tailor Liverano.
Lorenzo (Click to show)

Ciro—descendent of the Lorenzo. afaik only Marcus Malmborg in Sweden carries it, at least insofar as he does MTM. Lapels still swoop and curve but the quarters have been closed up a bit more, and other modifications.
Ciro via Andreas Weinas on Instagram (Click to show)

NMWA—the other descendent of the Lorenzo, except modified specifically by Greg Lellouche and Antonio and sold exclusively by NMWA. It started as essentially the same as the Ciro, but has since deviated. 3-button. Lapels are now straight-cut. Length is longer than Ciro. Shoulders feel like they've been brought in as well (someone would have to confirm, but that's how it feels to me).
NMWA (Click to show)


^^This is SS15 NMWA cut^^



^^This is FW15 NMWA cut^^



^^This is SS16 NMWA cut^^

Primo—slimmest of the cuts, from my understanding. Similar to Tenero otherwise. 3-button. Not sure what else is different besides slimness.
Primo (Click to show)

Balthazar—the cut that Bloomingdales carries now. Based on the Tipo, but shorter, and 2-button, with a slightly bellied lapel.

I have no images of this to show. Maybe somebody else does!

Lavato—the completely unstructured, washed blazers, which I don't think are produced anymore.

No images of this either... Somebody else?
post #4848 of 6234

Ciro and NMWA jackets are the same patterns exactly, except that NMWA model has 1cm extra length as well as buttoning stance 1cm lower.  Quarters are closed 1cm closer on NMWA vs Ciro.   That's all the changes.  Any other differences you may see are due to manufacturing changes between three different factories over the course of all these seasons - but would affect these two models the same way.

 

For our suits, we also modified the base trousers to have extra rise and sit a little higher than the original model.

 

Lorenzo/Ciro/NMWA are united by the same approach to the lapel, notch and roll.  Tipo and Tenero have slimmer lapels with noticeably higher gorge.  

post #4849 of 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Ciro and NMWA jackets are the same patterns exactly, except that NMWA model has 1cm extra length as well as buttoning stance 1cm lower.  Quarters are closed 1cm closer on NMWA vs Ciro.   That's all the changes.  Any other differences you may see are due to manufacturing changes between three different factories over the course of all these seasons - but would affect these two models the same way.

For our suits, we also modified the base trousers to have extra rise and sit a little higher than the original model.

Yes, thanks for clarifying! I've only tried on one Ciro over a year ago, but haven't seen one since.

Also, nobody judge me for how clearly obsessed I am with Eidos LOL.
post #4850 of 6234

Great post - I just wanted to clarify the NMWA model info

post #4851 of 6234
mossrockss thank you for posting !! Very informative sir !!
post #4852 of 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

Yes, thanks for clarifying! I've only tried on one Ciro over a year ago, but haven't seen one since.

Also, nobody judge me for how clearly obsessed I am with Eidos LOL.
In this thread I think your obsession qualifies you as a hero.

Here's one for the community: I have a tweed SC from the first (or nearly the first) collection done by Antonio (FW '13, I think). The model is listed as GFDREW. Any clue what that is? Feels totally unstructured, shorter than the Tipo but unsure if it is as short as Balthazar. Anybody else have one?
post #4853 of 6234
I have a few Balthazar models from Bloomies, and I concur about the shape of the lapels. They appear to be similar to more 'mainstream' suit labels (for lack of a better description)
post #4854 of 6234

Just saw this on IG ,SS 17







Much more on Eidos Napoli instagram!
post #4855 of 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLW View Post

Here's one for the community: I have a tweed SC from the first (or nearly the first) collection done by Antonio (FW '13, I think). The model is listed as GFDREW. Any clue what that is? Feels totally unstructured, shorter than the Tipo but unsure if it is as short as Balthazar. Anybody else have one?

I believe it is FREEDREW model which is developed for japanese market before Antonio's time. I found one on the thrift store in Japan a few months ago. It is lightly fused construction and fit small.
post #4856 of 6234

The new season looks absolutely fantastic - I know the tailored pieces get a lot of love here, but the softer knits and casualwear pieces have always been my favourite.

Speaking of the tailored pieces - I have a Lavato style shirt jacket, I'll try and remember and post some pictures here. It's definitely a bit small on me these days, I've worn it so much it's got a really nice beat in feel to it.

post #4857 of 6234
SS17 looks great. Love the adaptation of the brand and how the casual gear just swing in a different direction in terms of inspiration,silhouette, etc. I'm curious how the retailers response and who picks up what. I can see Barney's picking up some of the more unique pieces.

In other news, does anyone have experience with the unstructured Augusto jacket/coat from the current SS16 season? It's the one pictured her from Saks. I'm wondering if I should size it like my Field Jacket (EU 48) or size it like my Suit Jacket (EU 50). Can anyone shed some light?
post #4858 of 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonio028 View Post

SS17 looks great. Love the adaptation of the brand and how the casual gear just swing in a different direction in terms of inspiration,silhouette, etc. I'm curious how the retailers response and who picks up what. I can see Barney's picking up some of the more unique pieces.

In other news, does anyone have experience with the unstructured Augusto jacket/coat from the current SS16 season? It's the one pictured her from Saks. I'm wondering if I should size it like my Field Jacket (EU 48) or size it like my Suit Jacket (EU 50). Can anyone shed some light?

That looks like it's knit, in contrast with the one i got—the medallion print one from barneys (same as this one at trunk). I got my normal sportcoat size. Here is how it fit me (see any of the 48 images above for sportcoat comparison lol).
Couple extra fit pics (Click to show)



post #4859 of 6234
Thank you Antonio for continuously designing awesome casual takes on dinner jackets and formalwear that real life people can maybe sorta pull off in everyday life.

Everyone wants to wear Purple Label but just look like waiters doing so. Your pieces however look much more at home in everyday life.
cheers.gif


post #4860 of 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

Thank you Antonio for continuously designing awesome casual takes on dinner jackets and formalwear that real life people can maybe sorta pull off in everyday life.

Everyone wants to wear Purple Label but just look like waiters doing so. Your pieces however look much more at home in everyday life.
cheers.gif


I really hope NMWA carries a decent number of these. This season's DB dinner jacket sold out in my size in less than three hours and was never to return...
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