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Eidos Napoli - Page 288post #4306 of 69834/2/16 at 10:29pmpost #4307 of 69834/2/16 at 11:26pmI lost track of whether armani or ferre started the trend; I think the ones pushing the structured shoulder and powerful look a la 30s were ferre and flusser. Armani cuts a more flowy and drapey cut. They were all nice and fresh at the beginning, then at some point the shoulders got bigger and bigger and the buttoning point arrives right at the navel and the jacket length went 33 inches from boc which was reiterated by trickle down effect to the mass market.
owait I thought we're in AAACpost #4308 of 69834/3/16 at 4:52amQuote:
If I'm not totally wrong then the NMWA adjustments happened from f/w14, the very first Eidos at NMWA offering, to s/15. Main change, less open bottom quarters, maybe lower button point, plus a few others one could dig out from this or NMWA's thread.post #4309 of 69834/3/16 at 5:22ampost #4310 of 69834/3/16 at 6:33amQuote:
Maybe if I'm not lazy sometime I'll photograph each iteration and highlight the differences: FW14 to SS15 to FW15. I own one of each. It changed every season.post #4311 of 69834/3/16 at 6:55ampost #4312 of 69834/3/16 at 8:12am
From my experience, whether something looks full or "old man" (if you prefer that term) depends on how the shape of your body and the shape of the garment work together.
I've had to donate trousers that measure similar to the Sal model NMWA sells because of how they constantly slip down, even though the front rise seems fine.
I've realized I need pleated trousers with a higher rise than most and can't compromise no matter how attractive something may seem in looks or price. Braces are also required.
Now, high rise pleated trousers would probably seem plenty "old man" on certain members here. That's because a different cut works better with their body type.
Same goes for jackets. I have closer cut jackets that measure very similar to the Eidos NMWA models. Going by measurements, pretty much a 54L with the chest and waist let out one inch.
My suit is cut fuller, but hangs nicely and works with my body type. On other people it would probably look ridiculous though.
Measurements aren't everything, of course, and I have a jacket that measures very similar to another but feels like I'm wearing nothing at all over my shirt.post #4313 of 69834/3/16 at 8:15am
See below for a partial breakdown
http://www.styleforum.net/t/358758/no-man-walks-alone-official-affiliate-thread/28395#post_8245398post #4314 of 69834/3/16 at 12:06pmFor those who have been waiting on Martin Patrick 3 to update their Eidos collection online, one of the reps took it upon himself to photograph the new Eidos collection they received, it's posted here: https://www.facebook.com/robertelderstyle/. I just called and placed an order, he was extremely pleasant to deal with (and no sales tax for NY residents).post #4315 of 69834/3/16 at 12:19pmpost #4316 of 69834/3/16 at 12:22pmQuote:Originally Posted by TAFJIR
For those who have been waiting on Martin Patrick 3 to update their Eidos collection online, one of the reps took it upon himself to photograph the new Eidos collection they received, it's posted here: https://www.facebook.com/robertelderstyle/. I just called and placed an order, he was extremely pleasant to deal with (and no sales tax for NY residents).
Thanks for sharing. They got some great stuff. Love all the tailored wear and the field jackets. I will be sad if Eidos ever totally abandons their tailored offerings.post #4317 of 69834/3/16 at 12:29pmQuote:
No one said anything about abandoning tailored offerings. It just isn't the focus. Bloomingdales will still offer a deep assortment and the specialty stores that specialize in tailoring will still sell the models they've done well with.post #4318 of 69834/3/16 at 12:41pmThread Starterpost #4319 of 69834/3/16 at 2:17pmpost #4320 of 69834/3/16 at 2:47pm
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