Eidos Napoli

Delfino

All our 3 button jackets are 3/2 roll. I spoke with

pkilcull said:

By the by, has anyone seen this suit in person or own it?

I grabbed the last 46R from the bloomingdale's website; the price was virtually impossible to pass up.

However, the way it's buttoned on the model in addition to the description listing the jacket as both unlined and fully canvased, concern me. (The pants are also listed as unlined). I wonder if the description is accurate.

Any details would be appreciated, though it should arrive at my home in about a week.

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Bloomingdales regarding the product shots last season but looks like the message was lost in translation. The biggest challenge with their selling online is that they shoot our samples ahead of time, which are NEVER sampled in the models they order, as opposed to waiting until they receive their own order. Its important to know this going in. For spring they ONLY have the tipo. This will change back to the balthazar starting next fall.

In reference to unlined and fully canvassed, the two have nothing to do with each other. I don't own a single piece of lined tailoring and its all full canvas.

@NickPollica

How heavy is the fabric on the brown herringbone suit. I doubt any will be around when I head out to San Francisco next week, but curious anyway.

Brown remains, I think, unduly underrated as a color for suits/SCs.

Is it possible for something to be duly underrated?

unbelragazzo said:

Is it possible for something to be duly underrated?

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I would think so. A hard 3?



NickPollica said:

All our 3 button jackets are 3/2 roll. I spoke with
Bloomingdales regarding the product shots last season but looks like the message was lost in translation. The biggest challenge with their selling online is that they shoot our samples ahead of time, which are NEVER sampled in the models they order, as opposed to waiting until they receive their own order. Its important to know this going in. For spring they ONLY have the tipo. This will change back to the balthazar starting next fall.

In reference to unlined and fully canvassed, the two have nothing to do with each other. I don't own a single piece of lined tailoring and its all full canvas.

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Thank you for the lesson, Nick, much appreciated

@NickPollica

What's the main difference between Isaia and Eidos? I understand that they're both canvassed, but what explains the $2k (roughly) difference in price.

Awesome stuff btw.



TweedyProf said:

@NickPollica
 

How heavy is the fabric on the brown herringbone suit. I doubt any will be around when I head out to San Francisco next week, but curious anyway.

Brown remains, I think, unduly underrated as a color for suits/SCs.

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Not that heavy - I'm not a fabric expert but it's basically something nice for crisp fall days and not enough for cold winter.

I tried taking pictures on my iPhone 5 but they don't do the suit any justice. If a couple of you are week away from seeing it in person I think you'd be better off waiting since you will not be disappointed.

It's a very rich brown with some copper undertones - much darker than the website makes it look. Delfino fabric and flap pockets (at least on mine, since Bloomingdales site showed patch but I am guessing that ties into what Antonio was saying earlier).



othertravel said:

@NickPollica

What's the main difference between Isaia and Eidos? I understand that they're both canvassed, but what explains the $2k (roughly) difference in price.

Awesome stuff btw.

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probably level of handwork? I thought I read somewhere earlier it's a well machien made suit. Isaia also has different aesthetics.



othertravel said:

@NickPollica

What's the main difference between Isaia and Eidos? I understand that they're both canvassed, but what explains the $2k (roughly) difference in price.

Awesome stuff btw.

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Aesthetics aside - handwork. There is substantially more handwork in an Isaia garment than an Eidos one.

TweedyProf said:

@NickPollica
 

How heavy is the fabric on the brown herringbone suit. I doubt any will be around when I head out to San Francisco next week, but curious anyway.

Brown remains, I think, unduly underrated as a color for suits/SCs.

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I'd say its mid weight (I can't remember the grams offhand but I would guess around 325 - 350).



TweedyProf said:

I would think so. A hard 3?

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If you're saying that hard 3s just suck and that's why they're rated low, then they are not underrated. They're just deservedly rated low. AFAIK underrated always implies that the thing described deserves to be rated higher.

unbelragazzo said:

If you're saying that hard 3s just suck and that's why they're rated low, then they are not underrated. They're just deservedly rated low. AFAIK underrated always implies that the thing described deserves to be rated higher.

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D, I meant it as a funny way of saying that they suck. You're way of putting it is more to the point!

NickPollica said:

Thought some of you would be interested in seeing what we showed yesterday. I'm sure you will all be happy to know that we kept formal a little more straightforward this season...

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I've been wearing the Ulster coat – from last season, I believe – which looks indistinguishable from the coat shown above other than the fact that the Ulster falls below the knee for most people, for about a week now.

For those who are considering the item, I'd say that the styling and fabric is quite good for the price (~$1100 MSRP) and the coat fits true to size at the shoulders. However, the canvassing is quite light and the 500g fabric is appropriate only for above freezing weather with a sweater or a jacket inside. There is no allowance to lengthen the sleeves, so the tailor has to add fabric to make the alteration. And the collar is not stiff enough to be worn raised, as shown above.



BD22 said:

I've been wearing the Ulster coat – from last season, I believe – which looks indistinguishable from the coat shown above other than the fact that the Ulster falls below the knee for most people, for about a week now. 

For those who are considering the item, I'd say that the styling and fabric is quite good for the price (~$1100 MSRP) and the coat fits true to size at the shoulders. However, the canvassing is quite light and the 500g fabric is appropriate only for above freezing weather with a sweater or a jacket inside. There is no allowance to lengthen the sleeves, so the tailor has to add fabric to make the alteration. And the collar is not stiff enough to be worn raised, as shown above.

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the fabric above versus the one you purchased are very different. The one above is an 800g alpaca and wool blend that is fully lined in shirting weight flannel. I felt that, in general, all our coats needed to be heavier and warmer than last season so I did this to most of them. That said, increased weight for both outer fabrics and lining raises the price. You get what you pay for.

Regarding sleeve length, Our ulster coat has turnback cuffs (like you would find if you made it bespoke withost tailors) which means adding extra fabric isn't going to happen. I tried to compensatefor this by making them fairly long with the thought that its easier to shorten. Obviously we dont want to make the sleeves so long that everyone will need to shorten but this is the first negative feedback I've heard regarding sleeve length on this model. Unfortunately, as with any rtw brand, not all of what we make is going to fit people perfectly.

I was able to grab a few things last night







I am also awaiting a suit from another store.


I am debating this one
https://www.stanleykorshak.com/products/Navy-Donegal-Herringbone-Sportcoat/11836