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How to tell if a jacket is fused or canvassed?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
I went into 3 day suit broker today to purchase a suit and the salesman was not very knowledgeable. In fact, he even tried to BS me about lapels.

How do I know if a suit is canvassed or fused? I don't really want to spend too much on a suit because I am a college student. But I also want something decent, that will last.

post #2 of 9
Pinch test: Pinch the cloth beneath the jacket's bottom buttonhole on both the inside and out. Gently pull apart. If you can feel a third layer inside, then the jacket's fully canvassed.
post #3 of 9
Fully canvassed or half-canvassed? How can you tell if something's half-canvassed? TIA.
post #4 of 9
Do the pinch test up near the chest. In a fully fused suit, even the chest area will only have 2 layers. In a half canvassed suit, parts of the chest area will have 3 layers, but it will only have 2 layers near the bottom of the jacket.
post #5 of 9
I wanted to revive this thread because while I think I know what the difference is, what makes canvassed suits better? And could someone explain half-canvassed a little bit better for me? Thanks.
post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheessus View Post
I wanted to revive this thread because while I think I know what the difference is, what makes canvassed suits better? And could someone explain half-canvassed a little bit better for me? Thanks.

Drape. A canvassed suit will drape better and feel better on the shoulders. Also fused construction will look like crap after being dry cleaned too many times.
post #7 of 9
post #8 of 9
if its a dark suit with say black or dark blue button hole thread, you will see the canvass (as a light tan color) wedged inbetween the fabric and intermingled in the thread of the hole, very easy to see if it is full canvass or half. Additionally, you will feel if it is half canvassed by running your hand down the front and feeling where the canvass ends.
post #9 of 9
Working on the "pinch test." A few of my suits/coats seems to be canvassed in the chest (clearly three layers of not fused fabric), but not the lapel. I thought even half-canvassed jackets had canvassing in the lapel. No? Or am I maybe feeling a floating chest piece vs canvassing? Or just really missing something with the concept?

Incidentally, the reason I ask is that I've gotten wavy lapels on a few jackets lately, which I assume is from fusing gone wrong(?), and for that reason am trying to understand how to shop better.

Thank you!
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