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Hollande's and Akihito's suits: a comparison

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 

I like trim pants, but it's a good idea to make sure they're not too tight.  If the upper body is much larger, tighter pants can be disproportionate.  Contrast Francois Hollande with Emperor Akihito:

 


Edited by CrimsonSox - 7/30/13 at 12:41pm
post #2 of 27
Thread Starter 

The excellent tumblr Ivory Tower Style, from Unbelragazzo, has analyzed the photo above to explain why Akihito's fuller trousers are more elegant than Hollande's tight pants.  It's a great article: http://ivorytowerstyle.tumblr.com/

 

What's surprising is that the fuller trousers actually look more slimming.  They create a smooth, continuous line down the whole silhouette, while Hollande's figure is broken into two. The contrast is equally striking from the front.  Hollande's pants are excessively tight, creasing everywhere, even in the calves and knees.  While part of the difference is from Hollande's larger figure, note that his pants are tighter than Akihito's:

 

 

Here's a side shot showing the slimming effect of Akihito's fuller trousers, which are proportionate to his suit jacket.  The whole suit unified in one line from shoulder to shoe.

 

 

 

 

Akihito had great style, even when he was a young man.  Note the streamlined jetted pockets, which Prince Charles also prefers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lifetime of elegance:

 

post #3 of 27

Hollande's look is EXACTLY the reason why I prefer fuller pants. It seems soooo obvious in these pictures. Akihito looks great.

post #4 of 27
Agreed. Unbel's blog post is a good read.
post #5 of 27
Hollande's wimpy jacket lapels make him look larger too. Here's the permalink to the post for the unlikely future generations of SFers that come back to this thread when it's no longer top-posted on my site:

http://ivorytowerstyle.tumblr.com/post/56811752785/styleforum-member-victor-elfo-see-also-his
post #6 of 27
post #7 of 27

Part of this is because Akihito has a fantastic tailor: Kinn Tailors, headed by Hattori Susumu. Their website is here: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/index.html

post #8 of 27
The clothing of our ridiculous president is akin to the French social structure: the lower part is getting thinner and thinner, while the highest part becomes noxiously obese. How can he stand erect? It looks like everything's going to collapse. And to pile up different shades of ridicule, his tie is askew half of the time, which gives a good laugh to every single person I know (even in the French lowest classes). There's even a Twitter account called "François, your tie", that states for today: 30th July 2013, I've been worn askew 357 times for 680 public apparitions. https://twitter.com/FrancoisCravate

As always, H.I.M. Emperor Akihito is wonderfully elegant, in spite of his unusual body shape (or thanks to it?). Note that every Japanese person in the pictures above is actually wearing full trousers.
post #9 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Part of this is because Akihito has a fantastic tailor: Kinn Tailors, headed by Hattori Susumu. Their website is here: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/index.html

 

Pretty reasonable prices for full bespoke by an excellent tailor, if the price of 400k yen for a 2pc suit is up to date. Especially considering how much more expensive things frequently are in Japan.

 

PS. Hollande looks terrible, but I've never seen him look well-dressed.

 

PPS. I love the young Akihito's DB linen suit in one of those photos. I think I may have seen a different photo of him wearing the same suit, meeting some Oxford students of the same era who were visiting Japan. They're similarly attired, though sadly not as precisely...

post #10 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Part of this is because Akihito has a fantastic tailor: Kinn Tailors, headed by Hattori Susumu. Their website is here: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/index.html

 

Thanks for the link.  I was looking at the site, and what's interesting is that Hattori Susumu, who is 80 years old, has created a series of tailoring DVDs to pass on his knowledge to the next generation: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/dvd/index.html.   He also has a blog (http://kinntailor.blog98.fc2.com/), and runs a workshop to teach master techniques in tailoring (http://www.kinn-tailor.com/new/index.html).  Many of the great tailors are quite old, so it's important that their knowledge be preserved.  

 

I try to be careful about documentation, and I was just wondering if there might be a book or newspaper mentioning Hattori Susumu as the Emperor's tailor?  I do not speak Japanese, so I only did a quick search of Lexis-Nexis, but it does not have much Japanese news.  The silhouette of a sportscoat and a morning coat he wears do look like Akihito's, and Hattori's father, who was also a tailor, designed uniforms for the Imperial Household: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/company/index.html

 

 

 

post #11 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

I try to be careful about documentation, and I was just wondering if there might be a book or newspaper mentioning Hattori Susumu as the Emperor's tailor?  I do not speak Japanese, so I only did a quick search of Lexis-Nexis, but it does not have much Japanese news.  The silhouette of a sportscoat and a morning coat he wears do look like Akihito's, and Hattori's father, who was also a tailor, designed uniforms for the Imperial Household: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/company/index.html

 

I originally read about this on the Cutter and Tailor forum, where the information was provided anonymously by someone who claimed to have been trained by Hattori-san. The firm themselves would never mention the Emperor or their work. Ever. I don't think you'll find much in English, but I will do a search in Japanese on my other computer and get back to you.

post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

Pretty reasonable prices for full bespoke by an excellent tailor, if the price of 400k yen for a 2pc suit is up to date. Especially considering how much more expensive things frequently are in Japan.

PS. Hollande looks terrible, but I've never seen him look well-dressed.

PPS. I love the young Akihito's DB linen suit in one of those photos. I think I may have seen a different photo of him wearing the same suit, meeting some Oxford students of the same era who were visiting Japan. They're similarly attired, though sadly not as precisely...

Good to finally see Hatori san getting some recognition overseas smile.gif
His price only includes the tailoring fee. That plus the fabric (usually ¥100K yen+), so you're looking at ¥500K.

The current Emperor is also a good client of Henry Poole's. Though I'm not sure how long ago he made his last order there.
post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Hollande's wimpy jacket lapels make him look larger too. Here's the permalink to the post for the unlikely future generations of SFers that come back to this thread when it's no longer top-posted on my site:

http://ivorytowerstyle.tumblr.com/post/56811752785/styleforum-member-victor-elfo-see-also-his

I just found the thread, so thanks for the link.
post #14 of 27
Thread Starter 

The elegant Emperor:

 

post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 

Looks like the memo David Isle and I sent finally reached Hollande:

 

 

Much better trouser width than before:

 

 

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