Frederick Scholte (Savile Row)

carpu65 · May 14, 2015

Another Scholte's pattern from one of his cutters:

marcodalondra · May 14, 2015

carpu65 said:
Obviously were various cutters at H.Harris (in early 60s Francesco Smalto,the famous Parisian tailor were one of these). Is possible that in 50s one of these main cutters were trained by Scholte himself (and this explain because the Duke chose H Harris). Remember that Scholte's technique was not spread;so only a Scholte's cutter could make a suit as Scholte. The Duke had some others tailors over Scholte. He had suits from Caraceni (the Parisian branch before the war,and the Milanese Caraceni after the war) from Metzel,a tailor in New York (in the period in which was Governor of Bahamas),from a tailor in Montecatini Terme during a holyday in 1948. And from 50s Davies & Son and Forster & Son, that had cutters from Scholte's old firm. Is interesting think that the Duke went around with the Scholte's patterns. Maybe here is one of those:

Hi Carpu, I did not mean "cartamodello", but reverse engineer, so starting with a finished jacket and creating a model. Any tailor would be able to do that. During fitting they would be able to make it fit. It is clear for what I have seen at the V&A with a jacket made from a london/Bahamas outfitter that also offer custom tailoring, and I doubt it very much they had a Scholte cutter

carpu65 · May 14, 2015

Very interesting Marco.
You have some photos of this Bahamas jacket?

marcodalondra · May 14, 2015

carpu65 said:
Very interesting Marco.
You have some photos of this Bahamas jacket?

I do but I am not allowed to published them online as when you book the appointment they make you sign a legal binding document...

Is this one:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/3508

It has the same slanted under arm dart I have observed in person on this other one (I know it is a DB but virtually same construction in the shoulders as well):

http://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/today-at-kerry-taylor-auctions-duke-of.html

Edit: as far as I know Fosters were the trouser makers before Harris and only made trousers for him. I knew about the other tailors for the odd things. He also used Simpsons for overcoats, a specialist of the time.

carpu65 · May 15, 2015

I confess that i prefer the cut of the Duke's coats of 1950s over the 1930s.

jefferyd · May 15, 2015

carpu65 said:
Another Scholte's pattern from one of his cutters:

@carpu65 do you have the next page of this draft?

carpu65 · May 15, 2015

Unfortunately no; but Sator,another member of this forum, probably yes.

VRaivio · May 26, 2015

I guess this is the golden chest drape cut:

No creases, no bulging cloth, no loose space -- just some nice fabric and canvas that arch above the chest like a sail in wind.

carpu65 · May 28, 2015

cadmonkey · May 28, 2015

The Gawd. Thanks for putting this together!

lukejackson · Jun 22, 2015

Ivan Scholte said:
This coat was made for a client who never came to collect it. The label was in the pocket. The coat is fur lined and has an astrakhan collar.

With the exception of the hip pockets and lack of turnback cuffs, this looks almost exactly like a coat made for the Duke of Windsor himself.

EDIT: I have made a mistake. The one worn by the Duke was by Simpson and Sons, London.

igo9 · Oct 10, 2017

Guys,

I have this beautiful double-brested coat, and I'm thinking, if it is possible that it's real coat of Edward VIII or from Frederic Scholte. What do you think? I will be grateful for more info.

bengal-stripe · Oct 10, 2017

igo9 said:
I'm thinking, if it is possible that it's real coat of Edward VIII or from Frederic Scholte.

No way! - 'Duke of Windsor' seems to be a ready-to-wear brand. Although the suit might have been made in England, there is a possibility the 'DoW' brand might have been labelled like that for the export market (USA?) to give the merchandise some oldie-worldly credentials.

A genuine Savile Row suit would not have sported a visual label of either tailor, or, even worse, the name of the client. These details, as well as the date, would have been on a ticket stitched inside one of the breast pockets inside the coat.

Frederick Scholte (Savile Row)

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