Good call -- I was puzzled by that too, especially since the Duke wore a white vest in the photographs I've seen of him in a tailcoat.
What an extraordinary experience. How were the measurements on the jacket? The Duke remarked that one of the keys to Scholte's tailoring was the "the perfect balance of proportions between shoulders and waist in the cut of a coat." How was the level of handwork, compared to bespoke of today?
Hawes and Curtis was the Duke's shirt-maker and haberdasher. It's very different now, without the bespoke offerings, but in the 1920s and 30s it was regarded above Turnbull and Asser. I'll have to post a review of various London tailors and shirtmakers from a book published in 1930 when I have the chance.
London is a Man's Town by Helen Josephy and Mary Margaret McBride was published in 1930 as a guide to shops in the city. It's one of those secret treasures in Widener Library -- it's been borrowed only three times before, in 1999, 1965, and 1956. The section on tailors is quite interesting:
In the review, the King is George V, the Prince of Wales is the future Duke of Windsor, and the Duke of York is the future George VI, who was the subject of The King's Speech.
London is a Man's Town (1930) on shirtmakers. Mr. Curtis refers to F.P. Curtis, the co-founder of Hawes and Curtis, and the author of one the original books on men's style, Clothes and the Man (which shares the same title as Alan Flusser's first book). Note Curtis' advice on evening dress:
I wanted to help get a Scholte into the hands of JefferyD or another forum member. I found two substantial archives. The first is in the "Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection" at Kensington Palace. They have a single breasted tweed suit, a double breasted tweed suit, and an evening suit by Scholte. They are usually not publicly displayed, but the museum notes that you can see them if you make an appointment with Jenny Wedgbury, email@example.com, Tel. 020 3166 6626. The Scholte suits are stored in the archives "for anyone studying costume history, design and fashion studies." http://www.hrp.org.uk/MediaPlayer/ViewPlaylist.aspx?PlaylistId=121&SiteMapId=1777
The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Kensington Palace was the archive that the costume designers for the film W.E. used to study the construction and measurements of the Duke of Windsor's suits: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/entertainment/articles/2012-01/20/film-we-costume-designer-interview/viewgallery/4
A second archive is at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which has a morning suit, an evening suit, a double-breasted suit, and a tweed suit. I'm not sure about their access policies: http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections?ft=scholte&ao=on&noqs=true
Sometimes I like to dress like my crazy grand-uncle.
An unsurpassed fit by Scholte. You wouldn't add or take away a millimeter from that perfectly proportioned shoulder. The sleeve flows flawlessly into the jacket:
The sewing is extremely fine and is hardly visible in the shoulder and top of the sleevehead:
Hi Poorsod. I did a Google book search for "F.P. Scholte" and "7 Savile Row" (the address of his firm) and saw the book. I found it in the Widener catalog and borrowed it. I'll post more excerpts from it in the coming days, and a review of Savile Row tailors from the New Yorker, 1929.
In the archives, Scholte is sometimes misspelled "Sholte," so it's useful to search under that name (that's how I found the newspaper article above on the cost of his suits), as well as "Frederick Scholte." Did you know, by the way, that Lawrence of Arabia was a client, when not wearing his Arab dress?
A surprising combination -- JFK meets the Duke of Windsor:
Scholte and the perfect suit shoulder:
The Duke's engagement photo can be found on the excellent site Voxsartoria: http://www.voxsartoria.com/post/52481140628/the-stiff-white-collar-crowd-the-infamous.