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Frederick Scholte (Savile Row) - Page 3

post #31 of 131
Thread Starter 

It's interesting how hard it is to find the shoulder seam in his coat, even though the fabric is light.  Very fine sewing:



Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2




A flawlessly fitted sleeve:




The benefit of a high arm-hole and well-cut shoulder is that when the arm is raised, half the coat does not rise up:


Edited by CrimsonSox - 11/24/13 at 9:26pm
post #32 of 131
Scholte was known to have a quick tongue, being not afraid to use it, and to being quite the authoritarian at work. Here's a couple of stories from my past that I heard about him.

My good friend, Harry Errington, at a young age was given a job at Scholte's as a cutter. He was cutting a suit out when the boss walked through and noticed Harry cutting with his left hand. He promptly declared that Harry either cut with his right hand or he was fired. As it happens, harry was ambidextrous and simply switched hands, to Scholte's surprise, and thereby kept his job.

The second story appertains to a client of mine who, at one time, had used Scholte. My client was at a country estate for the weekend and Scholte had been invited, too. After dinner, as was customary, the men retired for a smoke, a brandy and a game of snooker. One of the guests, leaning across the table to take a shot, decided to have some fun at Scholte's expense and said in a loud tone that the velvet jacket he was wearing was no good and too tight. Scholte, without a word, walked round behind the client and ripped the jacket open through the center back seam and declared, "well you haven't paid for it"

Oh, I would love to have done that!!
post #33 of 131
CS, I am pretty sure these fabrics were not light in today sense but I guess minimum 10-11 oz
post #34 of 131
Thread Starter 

Ah, I should have said light in color marco.


It's good to hear from you, Len.  I always enjoy seeing your work, and I greatly enjoyed the stories.  The Duke of Windsor once saw Scholte ripping a morning coat off the back of the American Ambassador, after the Ambassador's wife started criticizing it during a fitting.  I'll have to post a short excerpt from the Duke's memoirs on his experiences with Scholte. 

post #35 of 131
CrimsonSox, an excellent thread with great insight. Kudos to you!
post #36 of 131
Thread Starter 

I love the fit of the shoulders and sleeve on this suit:




Surreal.  The Duke of Windsor with Dali:



Jackie Kennedy:



No front dart (just an underarm dart), consistent with Scholte's philosophy of minimizing the number of visible seams on a coat:




The summer of our lives: 



The difference that color makes.   Sleeve pitch looks good.  The buttons are matched to blend into the jacket fabric.






Edited by CrimsonSox - 11/28/13 at 8:42pm
post #37 of 131
Thread Starter 

In living color, continued.


A contrasting tie:



vs. tone-on-tone:




The famous windowpane suit:




The pale grey shirt is hard to find today, but it was more common in the 30s.  Click to enlarge:



The softly rolled lapel and finely sewn shoulder seam:


Edited by CrimsonSox - 11/28/13 at 11:03pm
post #38 of 131
Thread Starter 

"His jacket, navy blue with bold white checks; shirt, pale blue, two-toned, with tiny checks; tie, grey and blue checks; trousers, grey flannel; the moccasins, white and brown. " -- Vogue, 1949



Note the moderate width of the trouser cuffs.


Vogue, 1964:



That suit shoulder (albeit, with the jacket unbuttoned):



A beautiful suit:


Edited by CrimsonSox - 12/1/13 at 12:24am
post #39 of 131
Thread Starter 

The way a suit should fit: 




The Duke of Windsor at the Grand Canyon, 1959: 




The Duke's jackets from the early 1920s had a somewhat trimmer shoulder, following the slim fashion of the time:



The gray-flannel suit, Windsor style:




This was not an easy photo for me to post, given that I'm a Red Sox fan:



A houndstooth suit:




The lack of a front dart, or its displacement to the side, suggests this is a Scholte:




The Mayor of New York meets with the Duke of Windsor, who's wearing a three-piece double-breasted suit.  Note the jetted pockets in many of the Duke's suits:




Navy jacket with white wool flannel trousers, the classic summer look:





The difference that color makes:



Edited by CrimsonSox - 12/2/13 at 9:42pm
post #40 of 131
Thread Starter 

It's tweed day with the Duke of Windsor and Frederick Scholte:



post #41 of 131
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

It's tweed day with the Duke of Windsor and Frederick Scholte:


I believe the tweed suits in the second picture is the one I have seen at the V&A, or at least is exactly in the same pattern
post #42 of 131
I have already subscribed to this thread but that seems like an insufficient acknowledgment of appreciation. So thanks.
post #43 of 131
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

Sometimes I like to dress like my crazy grand-uncle.

That is a Royal Air Force regimental tie if any reader is interested.

To add some of my personal notes to this thread, the Duke himself wrote on how he gave one of his London made trousers (Foster &Sons of Bond Street) to a NYC tailor (H Harris) for him to copy, and as he did a good job, he then got all his trousers from him.

I start to believe that after Scholte retired or passed away, the Duke may have done the same for jackets as other then the Jackets I saw at the V&A there are other jackets at the MET and some sold at the famous 1997 auction that are cut the Scholte way but not labelled by him.

Finally, from the Duke auction catalogue and the article CS has reported in this thread, apparently the Overcoats were made by Simpson, a specialist in the field.
post #44 of 131
A probably rare footage of a Scholte jackets or made like One, in movement and with back views
post #45 of 131
Thread Starter 

I always enjoy and learn from your thoughtful posts on the forum and the London Lounge, Dopey.  This thread is my modest way of saying thanks to the sartorialists like yourself and Vox who have an interest in the history and greatest examples of tailoring.   


Marco, I appreciate your sharing the British Pathe videos.  They're a wonderful way to see Scholte's work in motion.


Patterns of elegance:



The difference that color makes:








Elegant in the summer (click to enlarge):




The couple's first anniversary:


Imported from JPEG image:


The nicely fitted shoulder:








The joy of dressing well:



The Prince of Tweed:



Fun socks:






The advantage of a high armhole on a jacket:




A suit should fit even when you move:



Who did Luciano Barbera name as his greatest style influence?  


Edited by CrimsonSox - 12/18/13 at 9:17pm
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