Machine Made Bespoke vs. Handmade Bespoke?

Grammaton Cleric · Jul 16, 2013

A London tailor (other than Cad & The Dandy) offers both a machine-made bespoke suit vs. a handmade offering. Both suits are cut and fitted by this ex-Savile Row cutter, with the sole difference being the method of manufacture.

The machine-made suit is priced about 30% cheaper than its handmade counterpart.

So, this begs the question - what exactly does one lose by opting for the machine-made version? I suspect the lapels may not swell and roll as nicely as the hand-padded ones, but does anything else stand out? The fit is (should be?) comparable.

At the very least, I'm guessing the machine-made offering would be well suited for overcoats, odd trousers etc. w/o any discernible loss of quality / utility. Thoughts?

Grammaton Cleric · Jul 17, 2013

No one?

unbelragazzo · Jul 17, 2013

I'd ask exactly what is done by hand for each line. I doubt it's all by hand in the handmade line, and it may not be all machine stitched in the machined line.

Also, as jefferyd has explained various times, there are lots of things that are done by hand but can be done equally well by machine as long as you have the right machine and a talented enough operator. Just saying "done by hand" or "done by machine" isn't sufficient information to know whether it's done well or poorly.

unbelragazzo · Jul 17, 2013

To expand a little more...I think some people hear the phrase "machine made" and picture raw materials starting on a conveyor built, entering some smoke-puffing big metal box, and exiting the other side as a suit. This isn't what happens, at least at the kind of place you're talking about. There are big complicated machines that do the lapel padding (see here: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2008/09/what-exactly-is-pad-stitching.html). But most of the "machine stitching" will be a human, using a machine as a tool, feeding the fabric in by hand. There's still plenty of room for human error and craftsmanship.

bboysdontcryy · Jul 17, 2013

Experience (not with Cad) tells me when a coat is 'machined', chances are that the canvass, or lapels are 'padded' with machine, as opposed to laboriously by hand. It's also probable that the lining is not felled by hand.

Unbel is right that, you might want to check with them to determine which step is by hand, and which step is by machine, especially since they, being in charge of the production process, will be able to elucidate you on this.

unbelragazzo · Jul 17, 2013

They should also be able to show you finished garments from each line so that you can judge the difference for yourself.

Eustace Tilley · Jul 17, 2013

I'll try and give you an answer more helpful than 'it depends.' I suspect that a difference will be apparent on both the canvas and lapels - from what I have been told, hand-padding / stitching both does lead to a springier, more attractive, garment that molds to the wearer over time. That being said, a machine made product would certainly be well suited to an overcoat and trousers. If the overcoat is produced to your satisfaction, why not give them an odd jacket and see how it goes.

poorsod · Jul 17, 2013

As I understand is that ironing is also very important to giving the coat its shape and not just cutting and stitching. Who is doing the ironing in the machine made process?

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Machine Made Bespoke vs. Handmade Bespoke?

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