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Quick Opinion: RLBL Shoulders (with pictures) - Page 2

post #16 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Yeah, it might be a fools errand. I just like the structured shoulders of an RLBL, and most of my suits are soft shouldered. I'm also thinking about the Zegna Torino cut, but it's a bit pricier.

Paul Stuart PC
post #17 of 33

I have both softer and stronger shouldered suits.  I wear and appreciate both, but I think that many posters tend towards the Neapolitan/American/Anderson&Sheppard soft shouldered persuasion.  The strong shoulder has its own heritage, though, in much of British, Parisian, and Roman tailoring -- think of Huntsman, Brioni, and RLBL.  It can be a sharp, masculine, attractive silhouette (which is why it's used for most military tailoring).  Just look at these Anthony Sinclair suits for Sean Connery's James Bond.  Ralph Lauren has said that Sinclair's Savile Row cut was the main inspiration behind Black Label, and perhaps the namesake for the "Anthony" model.  Notice the structured shoulder, the low buttoning 2B, the high gorge, and the trimmer lapels.  Anthony Sinclair was RLBL before RLBL.

 

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(For more Bond pictures, I highly recommend: thesuitsofjamesbond.com)

 

Whether someone should wear broader shoulders should be influenced by his head and neck size.  The key is to balance the head with the correctly proportioned suit shoulders.  Grant's suit shoulders work well for him, but wouldn't be appropriate for someone with a narrow or short head.  In most pictures that people post of suits, it's hard to judge, because the head is blocked out for anonymity. 

 

post #18 of 33
Great reply, thank you very much.

I have somewhat high shoulders, which makes structured shoulders a little more difficult (but not impossible). Zegna's Torino cut is a great square-shouldered model that works well on high shoulders, as well as Dunhill's Belgravia model (again, made by Zegna).

The RLBL in my pic up top is a 40R; An SA at the mansion recommended I try a 42R; these are the results:






And here is an Armani Collezioni (don't judge; I like the pattern and lapels!) in the Sartorial model (square shoulders)




Also, I'm of the impression that a structured shoulder can accentuate shoulder imbalance (one shoulder is high than the other).
post #19 of 33
Shoulder looks fine. Chest and waist look a bit tight though.
post #20 of 33
dont like it. doesnt look like it flows with the body
post #21 of 33
Not really keen on the RLBL shoulders. Too wide I'm afraid.
post #22 of 33
Thread Starter 

I'll post an after tailoring picture as a follow-up for this one. I'm way excited to see the results!

post #23 of 33
OP, sorry if I hijacked your thread. Wanted to contribute since I've been eyeing my own RLBL.
post #24 of 33
Thread Starter 

Not at all! Glad it's a productive discussion...I'm really looking forward to the end results for mine.
 

post #25 of 33

The 42R RLBL fits well -- there are no wrinkles radiating from the top button, so the waist is right.  The sleeve pitch is correct, since the sleeve is smooth.  There are no indentations on the top of the sleeve, so it looks like the shoulders are a good width.  The vents are kicking slightly, but that should be a straightforward fix from the tailor.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Great reply, thank you very much.

I have somewhat high shoulders, which makes structured shoulders a little more difficult (but not impossible). Zegna's Torino cut is a great square-shouldered model that works well on high shoulders, as well as Dunhill's Belgravia model (again, made by Zegna).

The RLBL in my pic up top is a 40R; An SA at the mansion recommended I try a 42R; these are the results:






And here is an Armani Collezioni (don't judge; I like the pattern and lapels!) in the Sartorial model (square shoulders)




Also, I'm of the impression that a structured shoulder can accentuate shoulder imbalance (one shoulder is high than the other).
post #26 of 33
More RLBL fit pics: Thoughts?

1. Nigel Model in 40R. Fits much much better imo. The shoulder seems softer too.





2. RLBL Anthony in 40R, double breasted. The shoulders seem a bit better than previous 40R models I tried. Maybe because it's double breasted?



post #27 of 33

Don't like the look of them on your shoulders...

post #28 of 33
Here's a comparison pic from the back:

The first pic is an Anthony in 40R

The second is a Nigel in 40R

Do the shoulders look better on the Nigel?




post #29 of 33
Nigel is definitely better for you. RLBL used to have the Daniel model a few years back and they are only SC but the shoulder is excellent....very soft. I think Nigel is the new Daniel (although from last time I checked, it was not as soft as Daniel)
post #30 of 33

The back is cleaner on the Anthony.  Also, there's no pulling on the button on the 42R Anthony, whereas there are wrinkles around the fastened button on the Nigel, indicating tightness.  I would get the Anthony, but the most important question is your comfort when wearing the jackets.  

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