or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › How We Used to Dress
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

How We Used to Dress - Page 8

post #106 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


Clearly you haven't visited The London Lounge.

No I haven't ;)

 

Yes, I do love my Tweeds and I do love my coarse woolen coats. But my fathers suits, which were pretty nice 40 years ago, are bulky affairs with cloth we would never find appropriate for formal dress. Improved production methods really changed how cloth feel.

post #107 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackinthebox View Post

No I haven't wink.gif

Yes, I do love my Tweeds and I do love my coarse woolen coats. But my fathers suits, which were pretty nice 40 years ago, are bulky affairs with cloth we would never find appropriate for formal dress. Improved production methods really changed how cloth feel.

There are quite a few posters on this forum who regret that cloth is now lighter and softer. They are willing to pay a premium for the specially made London Lounge fabrics, which are mostly between 15 and 20 ounces. Most tailors, especially English ones, prefer working with this heavier fabric as well, as its easier to iron into the shape you want, and holds that shape better over time.
post #108 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Ok, well, this post:

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/01/beau-brummels-on-14000-year.html

states the 1929 price of a SR suit to be ~13 pounds.

This site:

http://www.measuringworth.com/exchangepound/

gives the average price of a pound in US dollars as $4.86.

So the 1929 price of a SR suit in dollars was 13*4.86 =$63.18.

63.18 < 357.60.

QED.

Ahhhh fantastic! Clearly you have data which trumps anything I said about the pricing!

 

It does make you wonder about standards of living for tailors back then :P

post #109 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackinthebox View Post
 

 

Yes, I do love my Tweeds and I do love my coarse woolen coats.

 

ORDER TAUPE PEAKED LAPEL BLAZER,
BROWN LINING
,

Jacket, Peaked Lapels, 2 Button Jacket, 2 Straight Flap Pockets, and Jetted Ticket Pocket, Single Vent, 4 Button Working Cuff, 4" Hand Stitched Lapel

£475
(£500 less 5% discount


FOR FULL MADE TO MEASURE ADD YOUR DETAILS FROM OUR
MADE TO MEASURE JACKET PAGE
+ £100

 

****************************

http://www.tweed-jacket.com/

post #110 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Copeland View Post

http://www.tweed-jacket.com/

 

I don't know what point you were trying to make (once again) but you do realize that Bookster, the company you linked to, has just gone bankrupt, don't you? Or probably you didn't.

post #111 of 157
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

^The calculation you did there has nothing to do with SR suits, or any one good or service for that matter. All you did was compare the growth rate of average per capita income to the growth rate of the CPI. The whole point is that you could get a good suit for much less than $350 in 1930 - that is, price inflation for bespoke suits has been much greater than the overall price level since 1930.

On your first point, I agree - men might be in their "Sunday best." My point is, 1) everyone had a Sunday best, and it was pretty good. 2) They wore it fairly often, not just weddings and funerals, like today.

The photo in Manhattan in 1929 with which i started this thread was undoubtedly taken during the week- the men in the photo are
observing a "noise" study being conducted by sientific/engineering professionals, who are by our SF standards very well- dressed.

Regarding cost approximations over the decades, a simplier examplle may be seen in men's haircuts. Because haircutting has not benefitted
by any signficant improvements in productivity for probably centuries, the cost of a haircut rises at least with the rate of inflation. It may also be
influenced by the availability of barbers, which is, in turn, a function of alternate occupations open to those who might in an earlier era have chosen
the barbering trade instead of IT or x-Ray technology.
post #112 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Copeland View Post



ORDER TAUPE PEAKED LAPEL BLAZER,

BROWN LINING,
Jacket, Peaked Lapels, 2 Button Jacket, 2 Straight Flap Pockets, and Jetted Ticket Pocket, Single Vent, 4 Button Working Cuff, 4" Hand Stitched Lapel

£475

(£500 less 5% discount

FOR FULL MADE TO MEASURE ADD YOUR DETAILS FROM OUR
MADE TO MEASURE JACKET PAGE

+ £100

****************************


http://www.tweed-jacket.com/

This is heading towards middle/upper class stuff IMO. How many people in the UK have ever heard of "Bookster"? Maybe the British Royal family, a few celebs, and some members of an internet forum? I only know about them, because I'm a member of this forum and also "Ask Andy About Clothes". The rest of the population is wearing the skinny and cropped polyester shit they bought from Topman, Burton, Brooks, Debenhams, Gap, etc.

...which kind of brings me to the other threak...
http://www.styleforum.net/t/354283/what-has-been-the-worst-era-for-mens-suits/105#post_6499719
Edited by MikeDT - 7/30/13 at 11:13pm
post #113 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDT View Post

This is heading towards middle/upper class stuff IMO. How many people in the UK have ever heard of "Bookster"? Maybe the British Royal family, a few celebs, and some members of an internet forum? I only know about them, because I'm a member of this forum and also "Ask Andy About Clothes". The rest of the population is wearing the skinny and cropped polyester shit they bought from Topman, Burton, Brooks, Debenhams, Gap, etc.

...which kind of brings me to the other threak...
http://www.styleforum.net/t/354283/what-has-been-the-worst-era-for-mens-suits/105#post_6499719

At least people in UK has TM Lewin?
post #114 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Ok, well, this post:

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/01/beau-brummels-on-14000-year.html

states the 1929 price of a SR suit to be ~13 pounds.

This site:

http://www.measuringworth.com/exchangepound/

gives the average price of a pound in US dollars as $4.86.

So the 1929 price of a SR suit in dollars was 13*4.86 =$63.18.

63.18 < 357.60.

QED.

Yesterday my post didn't get through:

 

Fantastic data, absolutely crushing my earlier notion that bespoke got relatively less expensive! I love that kind of stuff.

 

I do wonder about the standards of living of those tailors, as that makes for really iffy margins. But perhaps someone else can shine a light on that. I'd think it paid more as those in the textile mills I studied.

post #115 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


At least people in UK has TM Lewin?

Among others, for sure. 

 

TM Lewin also has good sales, such as the following (Reg $800.00) on sale for $279.00 :

 

 

post #116 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDT View Post

 The rest of the population is wearing the skinny and cropped polyester shit they bought from Topman, Burton, Brooks, Debenhams, Gap, etc.

 

Nothing beats the look and feel of top quality wool:

 

 

Also from TM Lewin:

 

"This quintessentially British casual sports jacket is the perfect choice for a weekend away from work or any informal occasion. Made from 100% Scottish wool, it's our contemporary take on the timeless tweed jacket, crafted with all the extra detail you have come to expect from us. A stylish paisley silk lining and contrasting collar lining add an extra touch of luxury to this seasonal essential.

    Jacket Only
    Casual Cut
    2-Button Grey Jacket
    Plain Herringbone
    100% Wool
    Woven In Scotland

post #117 of 157

First: thanks for the wonderful data unbelragazzo, clearly my hypothesis was flat out wrong and bespoke has become much more expensive! I'd never imagine clothing was so cheap considering what we know about spending patterns. 

Also, I am at a loss why a thread about what men used to wear needs to be filled with advertisements puzzled.gif

post #118 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Ok, well, this post:

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/01/beau-brummels-on-14000-year.html

states the 1929 price of a SR suit to be ~13 pounds.

This site:

http://www.measuringworth.com/exchangepound/

gives the average price of a pound in US dollars as $4.86.

So the 1929 price of a SR suit in dollars was 13*4.86 =$63.18.

63.18 < 357.60.

QED.

2013 Average annual income= $69.000/year

1930 Average annual income= $1368/year

5 / 69 = 7% of avg income now

63 / 1368 = 5% of avg income then

So in the same ballpark.

Back then food was ~2x as a % of family expenditures... all these numbers move around as a function of innovation and structural changes in supply/demand.

The biggest flaw in this analysis is the use of average annual income vs. the price of SR suits. Average income has nothing to do with it. Should use top 1% or 2% income instead. As global wealth increases, wealth inequality increases, so I would think the comparison is even better on that basis, if not favoring now instead of then in terms of affordability.
post #119 of 157
"price" is not the same thing as % of per capita income. It's just price. My only claim is that SR suits were cheaper then than now. Other things, like computers, were more expensive.
post #120 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

At least people in UK has TM Lewin?

Apparently there is a TM Lewin in Bristol, must be quite recent. I know it wasn't around when I was living there. So there's some sartorial hope for the place after all.... biggrin.gif without having to go to London.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › How We Used to Dress