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What Has Been the Worst Era for Men's Suits? - Page 10

post #136 of 146

Seems pretty standard:

 

post #137 of 146

Regarding Rothstein, this is what I read "Rothstein was the Moses of the Jewish gangsters, according to Cohen, the progenitor, a rich man's son who showed the young hoodlums of the Bowery how to have style; indeed, the man who, the Sicilian-American gangster Lucky Luciano would later say, "taught me how to dress."

post #138 of 146
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezentius View Post
 


I do wonder though, what will weddings be like when those 20-something clubbers obsessed with thin lapels and skinny ties decide to settle down? One would hope that their sense of aesthetics will improve with age.

 

I have more than one jacket with 2.5" lapels - one vintage - and I wear skinny ties.  My groomsmen and I looked like this at my wedding (and thanks for giving me another excuse to post the picture; I have a bit of a problem). 

 

 

But, on the topic, obviously the 70's were the worst era for suits.   Right now, I think we are at the beginning of a renaissance of wonderful, classic styling in suits.  The skinny lapels are working their way out of fashion, and peaks have made a strong comeback.  Pants are fitting well again, among those that know what they're doing when they dress - mine below are an off the rack pair from Brooks Bros, so hardly exotic, but they just plain fit, and are made with a reasonable rise.  I hope it all also spills over into Tuxedos, as well.

post #139 of 146
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMartNJ View Post
 

Regarding Rothstein, this is what I read "Rothstein was the Moses of the Jewish gangsters, according to Cohen, the progenitor, a rich man's son who showed the young hoodlums of the Bowery how to have style; indeed, the man who, the Sicilian-American gangster Lucky Luciano would later say, "taught me how to dress."

I suspect "style" and "how to dress" are speaking to the broader field of proper decorum. This did probably extended to how one dresses, but in this he was simply transmitting his own upper class upbringing (rather than creating any sort of new style to be associated with gangsters).

post #140 of 146
Quote:
Originally Posted by kasakka View Post


I've been watching the series recently and aside from the baggy pants (and shirts) and way too big shoulders they're not bad at all. At least they don't have slim lapels, gorges that try to disappear on the shoulders or buttoning points at the diaphragm.

 

I think you've hit on what I subconsciously like about them, they're not as ridiculously big as the 80s, but still have a bit of a noirish feel to them or something.  One of the last shows where everyone wore suits until the current revival I think.

post #141 of 146
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post
 

 

I have more than one jacket with 2.5" lapels - one vintage - and I wear skinny ties.  My groomsmen and I looked like this at my wedding (and thanks for giving me another excuse to post the picture; I have a bit of a problem). 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

But, on the topic, obviously the 70's were the worst era for suits.   Right now, I think we are at the beginning of a renaissance of wonderful, classic styling in suits.  The skinny lapels are working their way out of fashion, and peaks have made a strong comeback.  Pants are fitting well again, among those that know what they're doing when they dress - mine below are an off the rack pair from Brooks Bros, so hardly exotic, but they just plain fit, and are made with a reasonable rise.  I hope it all also spills over into Tuxedos, as well.

The morning suit will always get a thumbs up from me (I won't even nit-pick the non-standard pattern on your pants as I am so glad to see that somebody still knows how to dress for a daytime wedding). Frankly, I think it's time to bring back the stroller for daily wear ;-) .

 

I think you are right about a renaissance of sorts. A lot of it is driven by the fascination the public has with period television shows such as Boardwalk Empire, Downton Abbey, etc.. I have had a couple of suits with double breasted waistcoats that I thought would remain unique in this modern age. Yet starting last year, I see Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren and now even Suit Supply all selling the double breasted waistcoat. If I had to venture a guess, it's in no small part thanks to the DB vests sported by Nucky Thompson in season 2 and 3 of Boardwalk Empire.

 

One strange side effect of this rediscovery of menswear by the public is that we are seeing an astonishing array of styling elements making a simultaneous comeback. Edwardian, Jazz Era, Mad Men; you name it and it's out there right now. My hope is this doesn't turn into the bizzaro-world of the 1970's where they attempted to integrate 20's and 30's themes with baroque elements (test-pattern jackets with giant hacking pockets and shirt ruffles). So far though, a lot of the stuff I am seeing in the last 18 months is pretty damn excellent.

 

Ralph Lauren Purple Label

Paul Stuart Phineas Cole

Suit Supply

post #142 of 146
I made a conscious decision to hi toward the more obscure, but traditional, check pattern. There is a long history of wearing check trousers with morning dress, it just hasn't been seen much since the mid 20th century. I assure you, my details are all absolutely correct. Plys I can wear these pants way more often than cashmere stripe. I also considered chalk stripe.
post #143 of 146
Bumping this thread because it's an interesting subject.

Going back through the (now widely available thanks to Google pic search) centuries of menswear you can find what people have considered silly fads in each era. It's best illustrated by actually posting pictures of the good and the bad of each era, by a highly personal sense of taste of course. Let's start from the 40's:

40's

Hasn't aged with grace:
The Zoot suit, popular from 1930s-40s (Click to show)

Good:
Fairly classic cut by today's standards, with quite generous width but clean lines and draping (Click to show)

50's

Hasn't aged with grace:
50s saw the rise of youth culture, which of course spawned outfits that would not age well. I kinda like the teddy boys, but its not exactly good taste (Click to show)

Good:
Cary Grant, what else needs to be said? The pants might have stuck out as being somewhat wide today, but otherwise this is quitetimeless (Click to show)

60's

Hasn't aged with grace:
Love their music, but this look would probably stand out as odd today (Click to show)

Good:
Making this too easy, but I chose Sean Connery. Sure the lapels are a bit slimmer, the buttoning slightly higher and tie narrower, but this is still a nice look (Click to show)

70's

Hasn't aged with grace:
Oh the horror, nothing redeeming about this (Click to show)

Good:
Alec Guiness, meticulously dressed in 1979 adaptation of Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy (Click to show)

80's

Hasn't aged with grace:
Don Johnson, no words needed (Click to show)

Good:
Focus on Prince Charles, classic and elegant ensemble (Click to show)

90's

Hasn't aged with grace:
The reign of the wide shoulders and low buttoning point (Click to show)

Good:
Admittedly, its hard finding good stuff from the 90s, but it existed (Click to show)

00's - present

Will not age with grace:
Thom Browne, a symbol of everything wrong with the modern suit, i.e. too tight, short et c (Click to show)

Good:
Ethan of the Armoury, always in well cut classic garments that compliment his build (Click to show)


So, what can be deducted from this?

Nothing really, but even though the 70's and early 90's saw an outbreak in widespread use of horrible menswear, every era has seen both crap and greatness. The common denominator of the successful looks seem to be an adhering to classic measurements, colours and fabrics. Even though we can clearly tell that the Cary Grant suit would look dated worn today, it doesn't make us laugh either.
post #144 of 146
Thread Starter 
I am still going with the Late 80s/ Early 90s.
post #145 of 146
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

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So, what can be deducted from this?

Nothing really,
hilarious
post #146 of 146

The current era. for sure.

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