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Leather Quality and Properties - Page 80

post #1186 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by leetpuma View Post


Oh and you said cleaning was almost as important as conditioning.  Could you elaborate as to why this is? Is it just that cleaning opens the pores back up or something?

Dirt is often ground up rock. whatever it is comprised of it contributes to cracking of the leather. You may not see it on a suede but abrasion and drying take place.
post #1187 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post
 It looks like calf but lasts so much better that makers would lose money by using kangaroo. A shoe addict's choice, I'm sure.

I've spent too much time on these threads -- when you said "lasts," I thought you were referring to, you know, the lasting process. I thought to myself "If the leather's easy to make retain the shape of a last, how could they lose money?"

 

But then I remembered what "to last" means in the real world, and I got it. Womp womp.

post #1188 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Dirt is often ground up rock. whatever it is comprised of it contributes to cracking of the leather. You may not see it on a suede but abrasion and drying take place.


I see that makes sense. Thank you for the info again.

post #1189 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by leetpuma View Post


I see that makes sense. Thank you for the info again.

You're welcome.
post #1190 of 1313
What exactly is "box calf" and why is it supposedly better than regular calf? Is it just an appearance thing? Does anybody have photos to explain this?
post #1191 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

What exactly is "box calf" and why is it supposedly better than regular calf? Is it just an appearance thing? Does anybody have photos to explain this?

Box calf has been staked in 2 directions, so in simplified theory the grain is goes from roundish to rectangularish to squarish via this staking. At least, that's the traditional description, more or less. In practice there should be much less stretch and irregularities in a true Box calf. It also used to only be allowed on Black Calf and similar staking on colored calf would be called Willow Calf......not sure if any of that is cared about any longer.
post #1192 of 1313
Thanks, what do you mean by "staking"? Do you mean like stretched to dry during tanning?
post #1193 of 1313

So, can I use the same brushes that I use on my tan shoes on my burgundy ones. Or do I need to buy some new ones for the burgundy. I don't think this got answered. 

Very best wishes, Munky.

post #1194 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post

So, can I use the same brushes that I use on my tan shoes on my burgundy ones. Or do I need to buy some new ones for the burgundy. I don't think this got answered. 
Very best wishes, Munky.

if you don't mind getting the tan shoes darkened, yeah, just one brush.

I use one brush for all of mine brown shoes, and the other one for black
post #1195 of 1313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post

So, can I use the same brushes that I use on my tan shoes on my burgundy ones. Or do I need to buy some new ones for the burgundy. I don't think this got answered. 
Very best wishes, Munky.

Of course you can,Munky, but afterwards you won't want to use that same brush on your tan shoes shog[1].gif
post #1196 of 1313
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Thanks, what do you mean by "staking"? Do you mean like stretched to dry during tanning?

Here are a staking machine and its mechanism. Hardened leather after drying is sandwiched between vibrating stakes to soften the fibers of the leather.


Boarding by hand or machine is another method to soften leather. Besides softening, it develops grain patterns — willow grain, box grain, and pebbled grain. Box grain is considered as one of the origin of box calf.
Quote:
https://archive.org/stream/shoeleatherencyc00sain#page/100/mode/2up
BOX CALF — A well known proprietary leather having a grain of rectangularly crossed lines.
Quote:
Pebbled grain by hand-boarding

http://kokontrip.exblog.jp/21554963/
e0072660_16552093.jpg


Here are other explanations of its origin from Handmade Shoes for Men.




These are current definitions.
Quote:
http://www.iultcs.org/leather_terms/search.asp?look_for=calf

Box calf — Full chrome tanned calf leather, black or coloured, smooth or boarded. Note: In the UK it must be black. When it is in other colours, see willow calf.

Willow calf — Calf skin leather, coloured, commonly brown, usually with a typical willow grain or with a box grain pattern. Full chrome tanned and boarded either in one direction - head to tail - or in two directions, as with box calf.
post #1197 of 1313
That all sounds pretty harsh on the leather, no?
post #1198 of 1313
Hello everybody
Please allow me to correct France T. Kegar is a partner of Weinheimer Leder. When Freudenberg closed, the beamhouse machinery was transferred to Kegar where the entire production is taken by Weinheimer Leder. All of Freudenbergs articles are still produced using Freudenberg methods.
I would be happy to provide any further information should you wish.
post #1199 of 1313
Moral of the story: Don't buy cheap leather products!!!
post #1200 of 1313
Is such pollution synonymous with leather tanneries? How sad...
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