Dirt is often ground up rock. whatever it is comprised of it contributes to cracking of the leather. You may not see it on a suede but abrasion and drying take place.
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Leather Quality and Properties - Page 80post #1186 of 21773/30/14 at 11:05ampost #1187 of 21773/30/14 at 12:48pmQuote:It looks like calf but lasts so much better that makers would lose money by using kangaroo. A shoe addict's choice, I'm sure.
I've spent too much time on these threads -- when you said "lasts," I thought you were referring to, you know, the lasting process. I thought to myself "If the leather's easy to make retain the shape of a last, how could they lose money?"
But then I remembered what "to last" means in the real world, and I got it. Womp womp.post #1188 of 21773/30/14 at 1:49pmpost #1189 of 21773/30/14 at 3:08pmpost #1190 of 21774/8/14 at 8:11ampost #1191 of 21774/8/14 at 10:47amQuote:
Box calf has been staked in 2 directions, so in simplified theory the grain is goes from roundish to rectangularish to squarish via this staking. At least, that's the traditional description, more or less. In practice there should be much less stretch and irregularities in a true Box calf. It also used to only be allowed on Black Calf and similar staking on colored calf would be called Willow Calf......not sure if any of that is cared about any longer.post #1192 of 21774/8/14 at 12:22pmpost #1193 of 21774/12/14 at 3:19ampost #1194 of 21774/12/14 at 5:52amQuote:
if you don't mind getting the tan shoes darkened, yeah, just one brush.
I use one brush for all of mine brown shoes, and the other one for blackpost #1195 of 21774/12/14 at 5:52amQuote:
Of course you can,Munky, but afterwards you won't want to use that same brush on your tan shoespost #1196 of 21774/12/14 at 6:22amThread StarterQuote:
Here are a staking machine and its mechanism. Hardened leather after drying is sandwiched between vibrating stakes to soften the fibers of the leather.
Boarding by hand or machine is another method to soften leather. Besides softening, it develops grain patterns — willow grain, box grain, and pebbled grain. Box grain is considered as one of the origin of box calf.Quote:https://archive.org/stream/shoeleatherencyc00sain#page/100/mode/2up
BOX CALF — A well known proprietary leather having a grain of rectangularly crossed lines.Quote:http://www.shetlandfox.jp/blog/2013/02/2013pattern-order-fairvol2.html
Box grain by hand-boardingQuote:Pebbled grain by hand-boarding
Here are other explanations of its origin from Handmade Shoes for Men.
These are current definitions.Quote:http://www.iultcs.org/leather_terms/search.asp?look_for=calf
Box calf — Full chrome tanned calf leather, black or coloured, smooth or boarded. Note: In the UK it must be black. When it is in other colours, see willow calf.
Willow calf — Calf skin leather, coloured, commonly brown, usually with a typical willow grain or with a box grain pattern. Full chrome tanned and boarded either in one direction - head to tail - or in two directions, as with box calf.post #1197 of 21774/12/14 at 10:58ampost #1198 of 21775/15/14 at 2:18pmHello everybody
Please allow me to correct France T. Kegar is a partner of Weinheimer Leder. When Freudenberg closed, the beamhouse machinery was transferred to Kegar where the entire production is taken by Weinheimer Leder. All of Freudenbergs articles are still produced using Freudenberg methods.
I would be happy to provide any further information should you wish.post #1199 of 21776/4/14 at 4:53pmpost #1200 of 21776/4/14 at 5:21pm
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