Dirt is often ground up rock. whatever it is comprised of it contributes to cracking of the leather. You may not see it on a suede but abrasion and drying take place.
Leather Quality and Properties - Page 80
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I've spent too much time on these threads -- when you said "lasts," I thought you were referring to, you know, the lasting process. I thought to myself "If the leather's easy to make retain the shape of a last, how could they lose money?"
But then I remembered what "to last" means in the real world, and I got it. Womp womp.
Box calf has been staked in 2 directions, so in simplified theory the grain is goes from roundish to rectangularish to squarish via this staking. At least, that's the traditional description, more or less. In practice there should be much less stretch and irregularities in a true Box calf. It also used to only be allowed on Black Calf and similar staking on colored calf would be called Willow Calf......not sure if any of that is cared about any longer.
if you don't mind getting the tan shoes darkened, yeah, just one brush.
I use one brush for all of mine brown shoes, and the other one for black
Of course you can,Munky, but afterwards you won't want to use that same brush on your tan shoes
Here are a staking machine and its mechanism. Hardened leather after drying is sandwiched between vibrating stakes to soften the fibers of the leather.
Boarding by hand or machine is another method to soften leather. Besides softening, it develops grain patterns — willow grain, box grain, and pebbled grain. Box grain is considered as one of the origin of box calf.
BOX CALF — A well known proprietary leather having a grain of rectangularly crossed lines.
Box grain by hand-boarding
Here are other explanations of its origin from Handmade Shoes for Men.
These are current definitions.
Box calf — Full chrome tanned calf leather, black or coloured, smooth or boarded. Note: In the UK it must be black. When it is in other colours, see willow calf.
Willow calf — Calf skin leather, coloured, commonly brown, usually with a typical willow grain or with a box grain pattern. Full chrome tanned and boarded either in one direction - head to tail - or in two directions, as with box calf.
Please allow me to correct France T. Kegar is a partner of Weinheimer Leder. When Freudenberg closed, the beamhouse machinery was transferred to Kegar where the entire production is taken by Weinheimer Leder. All of Freudenbergs articles are still produced using Freudenberg methods.
I would be happy to provide any further information should you wish.