LOAKE APPRECIATION THREAD

[Yowzer]

Must be fun to be in London during the summer sales. It sure seems like the Swing last is getting out of favour... A pair of blue suede shoes would be a nice casual addition too. Did you get any good deals?

 

[Yowzer]

Here is a brief comparison review between Loake Strand and Alfred Sargent Moore, priced at £198.95 and £395 respectively. I used the same format as Gentlemansgazette's shoe reviews.

STYLE

Both are Adelaide brogues, where as the Loake Strand has medallion toe caps.

THE LAST & FIT

Both are F width, very true to size. The AS 724 has a slightly more square chisel toe and a much narrower waist and heel, but never feels tight when wearing them. The Loake Capital last has about the same room at the ball of the foot as the AS, so the 2 lasts are very similar in fit and feel. I am normally a US E fitting in AE sizing.

The heel of the Loakes are lower than ASs.





WORKMANSHIP

I am no shoe expert, so will only pick out the obvious differences.

AS goodyear welt is channeled, compared to Loake's stitched aloft, a finer touch but not necessary more durable. Both have nice and neat brogueing, seams are stitched up nicely and so are the inside lining.

The finishing on the ends of the leather welt on the AS is much more neater and flush compare to the Loake. The burnishing of the Loake is inferior to the other AS burnished shoes, mainly in there are some very dark burnished patches where the leathers overlap, and where there is an uneven surface/indent on the leather upper, there is a lighter stripe not burnished.

The balance between the heel and last is better with AS, meaning that the sole will touch the floor in the area of the front arch when the heel stands flat on the ground, this means a more comfortable walk. The Loake does not have this balance, the sole is in the air when the heel is flat.

AS has a fiddle back waist compare to the straight waist of the Loake, it gives a more elegant touch, and looks better from all angles.





LEATHER

One can really tell the difference in leather by touch and feel.

The Loake 1880 line does have full grain leather uppers, however, when comparing to AS Exclusive line's full grain leather, here are the differences:

- Leather is very smooth and a lot less porous, feels like a heavy coating on the top, makes polishing very easy. This in a way confirms what some SF member's comment about lower end brand's full grain is somewhere between true full grain and corrected grain, but not as bad so it can still be classified as full grain.
- Leather is not as taut and thick as AS leather





CONCLUSION

While one can clearly see that AS Exclusive line is better than Loake 1880s, one must keep in mind there is a doubling of price. Both shoes fit me very well, so my feet can't feel the difference of the two yet, this may change if the Loake wears down quicker. From a practicality standpoint, better burnishing and detailing doesn't make the shoe last longer, nor can anyone tell the difference when they standing 1 m away. But since we are on the SF, detailing are looks are generally more important in the mind of the shoe owner and this is why we pay double or more for a pair of higher grade shoes.

The Loake 1880s, from my experience, are one of the best goodyear welt shoes in the sub 200 pound price point.

Good effort in writing the review wurger. How do you find the Capitals? I think they work very well for people with wide feet.

 

[wurger]

They do fit my feet very well, but my feet ain't that wide either, the capital last is designed for the most common foot. Loake G fitting would be more suitable for wide feet.

 

[Mr Knightley]

Here is a brief comparison review between Loake Strand and Alfred Sargent Moore, priced at £198.95 and £395 respectively. I used the same format as Gentlemansgazette's shoe reviews.

STYLE

Both are Adelaide brogues, where as the Loake Strand has medallion toe caps.

THE LAST & FIT

Both are F width, very true to size. The AS 724 has a slightly more square chisel toe and a much narrower waist and heel, but never feels tight when wearing them. The Loake Capital last has about the same room at the ball of the foot as the AS, so the 2 lasts are very similar in fit and feel. I am normally a US E fitting in AE sizing.

The heel of the Loakes are lower than ASs.





WORKMANSHIP

I am no shoe expert, so will only pick out the obvious differences.

AS goodyear welt is channeled, compared to Loake's stitched aloft, a finer touch but not necessary more durable. Both have nice and neat brogueing, seams are stitched up nicely and so are the inside lining.

The finishing on the ends of the leather welt on the AS is much more neater and flush compare to the Loake. The burnishing of the Loake is inferior to the other AS burnished shoes, mainly in there are some very dark burnished patches where the leathers overlap, and where there is an uneven surface/indent on the leather upper, there is a lighter stripe not burnished.

The balance between the heel and last is better with AS, meaning that the sole will touch the floor in the area of the front arch when the heel stands flat on the ground, this means a more comfortable walk. The Loake does not have this balance, the sole is in the air when the heel is flat.

AS has a fiddle back waist compare to the straight waist of the Loake, it gives a more elegant touch, and looks better from all angles.





LEATHER

One can really tell the difference in leather by touch and feel.

The Loake 1880 line does have full grain leather uppers, however, when comparing to AS Exclusive line's full grain leather, here are the differences:

- Leather is very smooth and a lot less porous, feels like a heavy coating on the top, makes polishing very easy. This in a way confirms what some SF member's comment about lower end brand's full grain is somewhere between true full grain and corrected grain, but not as bad so it can still be classified as full grain.
- Leather is not as taut and thick as AS leather





CONCLUSION

While one can clearly see that AS Exclusive line is better than Loake 1880s, one must keep in mind there is a doubling of price. Both shoes fit me very well, so my feet can't feel the difference of the two yet, this may change if the Loake wears down quicker. From a practicality standpoint, better burnishing and detailing doesn't make the shoe last longer, nor can anyone tell the difference when they standing 1 m away. But since we are on the SF, detailing are looks are generally more important in the mind of the shoe owner and this is why we pay double or more for a pair of higher grade shoes.

The Loake 1880s, from my experience, are one of the best goodyear welt shoes in the sub 200 pound price point.

Very interesting indeed.

What is an Adelaide Brogue? I've not heard that term before.

 

[Mr Knightley]

They do fit my feet very well, but my feet ain't that wide either, the capital last is designed for the most common foot. Loake G fitting would be more suitable for wide feet.

I have a highish instep rather than a wide foot as such and do find the Loake G fitting very well-suited to my shape of foot. As a result Loakes tend to feel better after a day in the office than any of my G fitting Church's Oxfords.

 

[wurger]

Adelaide brogues are a variant of oxfords with broguing in a "U" shape around the laces and it does not intersect any other seams on the vamp, also called an "u -throat" oxford.

Normally, an oxford shoe has two separate pieces of leather for the vamp and the quarter that are sewed together. An Adelaide brogue has just one piece of leather for the vamp with no quarters, like a whole cut but with a separate piece for the facing.

Loake Tweed is a standard semi-brogue, and Loake Strand is an Adelaide semi-brogue.

 

[wurger]

They do fit my feet very well, but my feet ain't that wide either, the capital last is designed for the most common foot. Loake G fitting would be more suitable for wide feet.

I have a highish instep rather than a wide foot as such and do find the Loake G fitting very well suited to my shape of foot.  As a result Loakes tend to feel better after a day in the office than any of my G fitting Church's Oxfords.

And most of Loake's G fitting dress shoes are from their comfort line, that helps too.

 

[Mr Knightley]

Adelaide brogues are a variant of oxfords with broguing in a "U" shape around the laces and it does not intersect any other seams on the vamp, also called an "u -throat" oxford.

Normally, an oxford shoe has two separate pieces of leather for the vamp and the quarter that are sewed together. An Adelaide brogue has just one piece of leather for the vamp with no quarters, like a whole cut but with a separate piece for the facing.

Loake Tweed is a standard semi-brogue, and Loake Strand is an Adelaide semi-brogue.

Ah, I see. Thank you.

 

[wurger]

My brown shoe collection, comparison of Loake 026G and Capital F last, compare to other F lasts, and different shades of brown!

Loake Tweed, Loake Strand, Alfred Sargent Ramsey, Herring Drake, and Alfred Sargent Hunt.

 

[Yowzer]

Is that the drake on the 1966 last? How does it compare to the Capital?

 

[wurger]



Is that the drake on the 1966 last? How does it compare to the Capital?

Yes, the 1966 last, it's very similar in fit to Capital. The 1966 has a chisel toe, while the Capital has a more round toe.

 

[kashmir]

026 G so chubby but I like

much better than them American fatlasts, I don't know why... something about AE & Alden just looks off to me. I think it's the vamp.

 

[wurger]



026 G so chubby but I like

much better than them American fatlasts, I don't know why... something about AE & Alden just looks off to me. I think it's the vamp.

I think it's more to do with the symmetric round toe, combined with the lower quarters for lower insteps. UK shoes are generally more asymmetrical with a lot more curves on the outside of the shoe when come to lasts which I think is more elegant.

 

[Mr Knightley]

Quote:
I happen to be wearing my Kews today and the resemblance with the Drake is quite striking.

 

[Ivar]

I can vouch for these Loake-made boots from Herring Shoes. Just don't wear them when it's wet underfoot (my sole was a hollow carcass after I had used these over a winter season).

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-info.php?&brandid=6&shoeid=3044