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St. andrews suits - Page 2

post #16 of 28
Quote:
I guess the you answered my question, Andrew. So this is not like a RLPL. Geez, you know, I've gotta be honest. The suit is in my price range, but I'm still just torn about whether to put my money into Chan MTMs or a SA, Oxxford, or similar at a 7-800 price point.
Please do me a favor and buy it so I don't have to agonize over it anymore.
post #17 of 28
Quote:
He was doing a cut that while still fairly soft in the shoulders, was EXTREMELY tapered in the waist. For instance, several of the size 40L coats I had measured 42-43" in the chest and 36-37" in the waist.. Standard difference between chest and waist measurements is 2-4", not 6-7". I've never seen anything with that much waist suppression. Now he seems to be doing a cut with much wider shoulders, a lot of padding, and with a very suppressed waist, not as much as before, but still more than just about everything else on the market. It's very dramatic, and not to my taste (not that my taste is the final word of course.) As for Ralph Lauren buying St. Andrew's - I haven't heard anything about that but I haven't been subscribed to DNR for a while. I suppose it's within the realm of possibility.
I usually have my jackets tapered in to reveal a very flattering suppressed hourglass cut. I have a slim, muscular body and call pull this shape off quite well. Same goes with high gorge 6-4 DB suits, I look very good in them. I do not like wide shoulders, but rather more of a Neapolitan look. I have not bought anything from RLPL (jackets / suits) since they were made by Chester Barrie, so I have not really paid close attention to their line the last 2-3 seasons. The CB RLPL's were really beautiful and it would be a shame if they have ruined that design. Jon.
post #18 of 28
SaintAndrews is owned by Cantarelli, so I very much doubt that Ralph Lauren has bought it. Sort of reminds me of the assertion by an Oxxford salesman that they had bought C&J. Andrew, do you have a model name or number for the SA jackets? I have a few SA's, one of which is from Bergdorf and has very lightly padded shoulders, as well as a private label jacket from Harrison James with more padding. It would be helpful to know which pattern these jackets are cut on. Thanks.
post #19 of 28
When I get back home this weekend, I'll check and see if I can identify the model number.
post #20 of 28
i, too, doubt that standrews has been purchased by ralph lauren. as a public company, rl would likely announce an acquisition of that size, and they haven't done so (at least according to bloomberg). however, dnr wrote a couple of years ago that rl was interested in standrews, mostly for its factory. so the idea isn't too far-fetched.
post #21 of 28
I think RLPL must have a number of silhouettes available.   I have purchased several of the suits over the past couple of years from the RL store in Dallas, and the waist/chest ratio on all of them is pretty standard (the chest averages around 44, while the waist is in the 40-42 range).  The newest one I have (purchased in Feb.) does have a larger chest, but it is also drapier and, if anything, has less waist suppression.  In fact, I would say that my suits look fairly similar to the St. A suits Andrew is auctioning. I know RLPL takes some flak for being too theatrical/costume-like, but I have found that the line has plenty  of great-looking "conventional" options available rtw.  In other words, you can buy RLPL off the peg without all of the English-Country-Estate-Circa-1930 flourishes if you want.  I wear mine to work and don't ever feel the least bit anachronistic in them.  (Granted, I'm a butler for Lord Shiftenberry.  Jk.)  Who knows, maybe the Dallas store gets the more conservative stuff.  Wouldn't surprise me.
post #22 of 28
Thread Starter 
I see all but three of the St. Andrews suits have been sold.That's some pretty quick action. Great stuff at a great price, so not entirely surprising.
post #23 of 28
Good point JErwin. I haven't gone into a Polo store and tried on all the suits - I'm only going off of the models that I've owned or sold. So they could indeed have a number of different models, some of which I may not have seen.
Quote:
I see all but three of the St. Andrews suits have been sold.That's some pretty quick action. Great stuff at a great price, so not entirely surprising.
I'm surprised they are selling faster than the Barbera's are. Maybe because of the fabric??
post #24 of 28
Quote:
I'm surprised they are selling faster than the Barbera's are. Maybe because of the fabric??
I'll bet it's the lapel style. The Barberas roll cleanly to the middle button instead of rolling to (or above) the top button like most contemporary 3-buttons. I actually did a double-take on the picture because the Barberas look like two-button suits at first. The St. Andrews is probably a more accessible/familiar style.
post #25 of 28
As to why the St. Andrews suits would move quicker than the more well-known Barbera brand, my brother (a former New Yorker and now a S.F. area resident) told me that California, the South, and the Sunbelt residents have little need for "winter" flannel. This limits the audience. Even in the colder states, it appears that a year-round wardrobe of "supers" is supplanting the old concept of two seasonal wardrobes of flannel suits in the winter and "tropical" or lightweight cotton in the summer. Land's End preaches that it's more economical to wear its year-round suit. I myself am not sure that the "year-round" suit can be worn in subarctic conditions or that it looks right.
post #26 of 28
To continue with my speculations, Barbera is a product of northern Italy, acknowledges English influences, and therefore usually includes flannel in his lines. Kiton and Attolini are products of Naples, where flannel is a punishment in the heat. Perhaps this is why you so rarely see these lines carry flannel (have never seen one on "Worlds Finest" Ebay store). Alan Flusser,in all his books, still touts seasonal wardrobes. But he is a not-so-secret admirer of Brooks Brothers in the '60's, where "tropical", linen, and seersucker vanished from the shelves in September and "year-round" was unknown. Yes, most top-end New York stores still carry heavier weight suits, but it takes money and an interest in style (especially, retro style) to avoid the less costly "year-round" wardrobe. Sorry for the length of this.
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
Frankly SS, I love seasonal clothes. Very lightweight wools or silk/cotton blends are only appropriate in the summer where I live and are a joy to wear -- very luxurious. On the other hand, I've got a couple of heavy cotton suits and several heavy wool slacks and wool/cashmere shirts that I love wearing in the fall and winter (but would be impossible to wear in the spring or summer). I long, long ago dismissed the idea that I'd be too warm wearing them in my office. Not at all -- perfectly comfortable (and I don't have individual climate control for my office at work). At the beginning of the next season, I bring out of garment bags my old friends from 6 months earlier.... Shoes too.
post #28 of 28
Quote:
As to why the St. Andrews suits would move quicker than the more well-known Barbera brand, my brother (a former New Yorker and now a S.F. area resident) told me that California, the South, and the Sunbelt residents have little need for "winter" flannel. This limits the audience. Even in the colder states, it appears that a year-round wardrobe of "supers" is supplanting the old concept of two seasonal wardrobes of flannel suits in the winter and "tropical" or lightweight cotton in the summer. Land's End preaches that it's more economical to wear its year-round suit. I myself am not sure that the "year-round" suit can be worn in subarctic conditions or that it looks right.
This makes sense to me. Also, I get the impression that suits made of those really light summer fabrics tend to be less durable. Seeing as how I'll most likely be moving to a more temperate climate in a year (where it doesn't snow) I'm stocking up only on super 1xx's suits.
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