He was doing a cut that while still fairly soft in the shoulders, was EXTREMELY tapered in the waist. For instance, several of the size 40L coats I had measured 42-43" in the chest and 36-37" in the waist.. Standard difference between chest and waist measurements is 2-4", not 6-7". I've never seen anything with that much waist suppression. Now he seems to be doing a cut with much wider shoulders, a lot of padding, and with a very suppressed waist, not as much as before, but still more than just about everything else on the market. It's very dramatic, and not to my taste (not that my taste is the final word of course.) As for Ralph Lauren buying St. Andrew's - I haven't heard anything about that but I haven't been subscribed to DNR for a while. I suppose it's within the realm of possibility.