Originally Posted by Ebonyman
In an effort to enhance my spring sport coat collection, I picked up three "Polo" RL linen jackets on ebay. The jackets are olive, navy and a medium blue/grey with a nice herringbone pattern.
After they arrived, I couldn't help but notice how heavy these things are. I've never held a linen garment as heavy as these SCs in my life! I'm not aware of linen being a fall/winter garment so what could be the point of making a summer garment so heavy that it can't be worn during the time of year it was intended for?
Then again, maybe that's why they were all on ebay in the first place........
I have posted about this phenomena of over constructed linen suits and jackets several times. Makers seem intent on building linen suits and jackets that "feel substantial" rather than lightweight. I think this is because, until recently, linen wasn't very mainstream and mainstream customers equate lightweight with poor quality and limited durability (neither of which is true with linen). The result is fully lined suits with heavy stabilizing fusing and made from materials like herringbone patterned Irish linen (heavy weight linen weave). The end product is somewhat less wrinkle prone and feels, to the uninitiated, like it will be more durable, but these overbuilt abominations are nearly impossible to wear in high-humidity, high-heat environments, pretty much defeating the whole purpose of linen garments.
Recently I purchased a linen suit ( http://bit.ly/12FZRnt ) from Suit Supply that I have been pretty darn happy with (once I had my tailor fix the sizing). It's definitely more "fashion" than my usual BB and PS stuff, but it is actually lightweight and very comfortable (even in full 3 piece form) during these worst days of NYC summer weather, despite having a full lining. Also, regardless of what I feel is far too short a jacket (the SS Lazio pattern is for a short jacket), people keep complementing me on the suit. That said, this SS example was the only one I could find (without going MTM or bespoke) that I consider livable after looking at a half dozen brands. As a result, I just had my older linen (properly half-lined) suit refitted as I suspect finding reasonably priced and wearable linen is only going to get harder.