or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › My search for a Tuxedo
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

My search for a Tuxedo

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 

Hi all -

 

I am fairly new to posting (have been lurking for quite some time) and thought i would utilize this thread to keep track of my search for a Tuxedo (Sept 2014 wedding).  This will be my first MTM/Bespoke purchase in general, so the whole process of even finding a person or place has been a bit overwhelming.  Hopefully this thread can assist others in the future when searching for a MTM/Bespoke/OTR Tuxedo and or Tailor in Chicago.

 

So far, I have found the names and potential options of the below places and or persons.  I will keep this thread updated if/when I speak and or visit.  If anyone has additional suggestions I am all ears.

 

At this time I am leaning towards a midnight blue, Shawl collar (but this misses prefers a peak lapel), single button setup.

 

 

Chris Despos - While I do not think Chris's work can be disputed, it is simply out of my budget.  I sent Chris an email inquiry, he responded promptly and thoroughly.  I hope to discuss a bespoke blue blazer with him down the road.

 

Nicholas Joseph - While I was not able to find many reviews on this company I visited them this morning.  The personnel were very friendly and communication via email was prompt and thorough.

 

Thoughts: if there were no other options available in Chicago - I do not think i would have an issue using them for a tux.  They offer half canvassed jackets, 110, 120, 140 fabrics an a myriad of options for shirts as well.  I tried on a midnight blue/shawl collar and a black/peak lapel tux they had on the showroom floor - to my surprise they actually fit fairly well.  Stitching seemed well done and uniform, the sleeve buttons were functional, lining was nice, and they do a bit of a roped shoulder which I really love.  It was an overall nice experience.

 

 (a gentleman was in for his initial fitting while I was there.  I observed from my area, and to my untrained eye the suit fit well - no creases in upper/lower back/ arms were good length/ no pulling in the front)

 

Oxxford - to be contacted

 

Paul Chang Tailor -  Called this afternoon and left a voicemail - will update when I receive a return call

 

Ralph Lauren - Called the downtown location and spoke to Mark.  He was very friendly.  He advised they have their trunk show in September and it would be good to come in during that time to save some costs.  If I am in the city between now and then I will stop by and see him.


Brooks Brothers - to be contacted

 

Richard Bennett - to be contacted

 

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

post #2 of 28
Add Paul Stuart to your list. I do not know whetther they do MTM for tuxes, but their
standard " trad" tux, I own one decades old, that is a classic.
Edited by comrade - 7/1/13 at 1:32pm
post #3 of 28
Thread Starter 

Thanks, I will add them to the growing list.

 

Hopefully, by starting this early I can commission one or two potential places to make me a shirt and assess their work and process prior to committing to a full setup.

post #4 of 28
Knwl,

I encourage you to plan on meeting and using Chris at some point. However, fair warning, once you go there you will automatically increase your clothing budget. He has that effect.

Rob
post #5 of 28
I guess it depends on how much you're willing to spend. If you're looking to spend less than $2k then Canali makes a sharp tux.

If you start getting above $3k in you search, and some of names you listed will easily get you above that ( including RL) , then you
should elect to tack on a little more and go with Despos. He'll do it right and you'll feel great in it.

If you're concerned that you won't wear the tux enough to justify the price then you could go with a black or midnight blue peak-lapel single button
2 piece suit from Chris. That's what he made for my wedding and I found that I wear it fairly often - maybe 10 times in the last year. It's by far the best bespoke suit I have.

I agree with Rob though. If you live in Chicago you're playing with fire.
post #6 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dempsy444 View Post

I guess it depends on how much you're willing to spend. If you're looking to spend less than $2k then Canali makes a sharp tux.

If you start getting above $3k in you search, and some of names you listed will easily get you above that ( including RL) , then you
should elect to tack on a little more and go with Despos. He'll do it right and you'll feel great in it.

If you're concerned that you won't wear the tux enough to justify the price then you could go with a black or midnight blue peak-lapel single button
2 piece suit from Chris. That's what he made for my wedding and I found that I wear it fairly often - maybe 10 times in the last year. It's by far the best bespoke suit I have.

I agree with Rob though. If you live in Chicago you're playing with fire.


Very interesting idea!

 

Ideally, i would like to be around $2,000.  However, i had not given a thought to a midnight blue "suit".  That is a very interesting idea and your right - i would probably get more use out of a suit than a formal tuxedo.  But by creating a suit so similar to a tux are we getting a bit into the parody realm (in a bad way)?

 

can you post or send any pics of the suit Chris made for you? Any details (pocket styles/darts/ etc)  I am very interested in seeing what that looks like.  Also, what did your groomsman wear?

 

Any pics would be great!

 

Thanks

post #7 of 28
A midnight blue peak lapel single-button suit is pretty damn close to a tuxedo. I assume you wear it with a plain-front shirt and FIH tie to keep it solidly in suit territory?
post #8 of 28
^If it is a daytime wedding, the suit should definitely be preferred to a tuxedo. if you really want to snazz it up, add a vest, maybe a double-breasted shawl lapel.

You might also want to consider my friends from Kowloon, W.W. Chan. They visit Chicago on every tour. You can find out a lot about them on the forum, and they do excellent work, as I can personally attest.
post #9 of 28
I had a black peak lapel suit made, not midnight blue. I think only the stodgiest of the English would consider it a parody but of course they think the tux is a parody of the morning coat, and I dare you to wear a morning coat;) Here in the States I think people moved beyond this mindset years ago. In fact, in my city of San Francisco, people would rather see you in a well fitted black suit than in a tux. There are plenty of evening functions here where a black suit fits in just right but a tux would be too much.

As for our wedding, we got married in DC in the evening so black seemed appropriate. I didn't want a tux because I figured I wouldn't wear it often enough.
The groomsman wore black suits with charcoal ties and I wore a platinum tie with mine. I'll send you a pick.

Like I said, I've worn it about ten times since the wedding but never before 5pm. It's always been an evening suit for other weddings or parties. I'll either wear it with a white shirt and platinum tie or sometimes with a gray shirt and dark tie. It gets complimented every time I wear it and it is incredibly comfortable to wear.

Having said all this, I think my wedding would have been just as sharp if my groomsman and I would have worn gray and of course grey is even more practical.

I don't have experience with the other tailors you mentioned in Chicago. I know Oxxford is very expensive so don't see them coming out around $2k.
post #10 of 28
Bear in mind that an awful lot of the internet rules about tuxedos and wedding wear are basically made up and don't really exist in the real world.
post #11 of 28
Why not make it a midnight blue double breasted?
post #12 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Working Stiff View Post

Bear in mind that an awful lot of the internet rules about tuxedos and wedding wear are basically made up and don't really exist in the real world.

I was aware of many of them many years before I ever so much as heard of the Internet.
post #13 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLibourel View Post

^If it is a daytime wedding, the suit should definitely be preferred to a tuxedo. if you really want to snazz it up, add a vest, maybe a double-breasted shawl lapel.
Quote:

I forgot about Chan. Yes, that is a good option for the OPs price point. They appear to do excellent work for that price. Unfortunately, the OP just missed them. They were in Chicago in June and won't be back until October. It could still work. He could meet Chan in October, have a basted fitting in June/July when they return, and then Chan could ship the suit in August.

Having said all that, overseas commissions can be stressful and complicated. I've never used Chan but I have used another and in the event something goes wrong with the cut etc. it is a royal pain in the ass. Having gone through it, I would advise against risking it with a wedding suit especially seeing how tight the schedule would be. He could speed up the schedule by meeting with Chan in other cities but that just ads to costs and at that point he may be much better off allocating the money to pay for Despos.


I'd be inclined to stick with the local options.
post #14 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post

Why not make it a midnight blue double breasted?

+1. A 9-10 ounce wool mohair blend DB in midnight blue would be absolutely stunning. It's a perfect suit for a formal event where a tuxedo would be too much and will probably get a lot more use than a tuxedo. If OP isn't a fan of DB suits, this could well be the place to do a peak lapel one button suit in a similar fabric.
post #15 of 28
Thread Starter 

wow great replies!

 

i am very interested in considering a single button peak lapel suit, as it may get a lot more use than a tuxedo.  As i only own a couple suits at this time, i would prefer to keep single button vs. double breasted.  I can appreciate a good double breasted suit, but not for me at this time.

 

FWIW the wedding is planned to be around 5-6pm, so it will be an "evening" wedding...

 

Dempsy - thanks for the pictures.  the setup looks amazing!

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › My search for a Tuxedo