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Help a college kid build a suit and shirt! - Page 2

post #16 of 30
I highly recommend you don't go with 2.5" ties or lapels. It is an immature look.
post #17 of 30
Agreed. Unless you're an extra for Mad Men, I'd ditch the fashion forward look for officewear and job interviews. If you want that stuff for going out to clubs or whatever, that's a totally different topic.
post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowsnuzzy View Post

Lol I posted a picture of me in a spread collar with a 4 in a hand knot on another thread for something else and someone commented to use a fatter knot to take up the space. I kind of knew it in the back of my head but was hoping no one would notice... I guess it comes down to personal preference 

My current suit lapel is 2.5", I guess that seems slimmer but I'm a very thin guy. Also, I pretty much wear only slim ties (2.5 inches) as well so I think it works fine. Probably go for this size again. As for my colors, I was definitely thinking charcoal and navy. I currently have black - probably not the best first choice but I didn't know any better. 

It seems like your mind is made up. Do you just want to hear that people agree with you? If so, just stick to GQ.

2.5 inch lapels are too slim. I don't care how skinny you are.
post #19 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post


It seems like your mind is made up. Do you just want to hear that people agree with you? If so, just stick to GQ.

2.5 inch lapels are too slim. I don't care how skinny you are.

Perhaps the lapels are too slim, that's something I'm not certain about. I'll talk to the tailor and see what he thinks too. As for the ties, it might be immature but I think it's worse when an 18 or 20 year old wears a full 3.5 inch tie. For some reason it reminds me of investment bankers... an older crowd. I'm sure in 10 or 20 years the slimmer ties will look stupid on me, but for now, as a young adult, I think the 2.5 inch style goes along with the whole idea of wearing slimmer cuts in everything from jeans to formal wear. 

 

Not looking for agreement necessarily as I'm sure I won't find it here, but I've gotten some great information regarding the customization of my next suit that will be put to use. That was my goal. 

post #20 of 30
Being 18, not wanting pleated pants is understandable. You're young and skinny, so go wild with your style, that's fine. I guess you don't want to dress like a mid-30s professional, and that's cool. Your body, style, and clothing needs will change a lot in the next 10 years, so anything you buy now is not going to be around so long anyway.

Since you listen to GQ, then you should heed their advice that the only shirt collar you need is the semi-spread. If your FIH knots are too small, then you've got cheap skimpy ties. Quality ties will produce an ample sized knot when tied FIH.

Otherwise, listen to Patrick. His advice is spot on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Two buttons, navy or charcoal, 100% wool, bemberg lined. At least 3.5" lapels with notches. Two standard flap pockets. Always get 2 vents, your waiter analogy makes no sense. The only thing that shouldn't have vents is a dinner jacket. Trouser pockets make no difference, slant is easier to get your hands in. If you get pleats, get one single forward pleat with cuffs, if you get flat front cuff is optional.
post #21 of 30
Well, best of luck ...

But just remember that your business meetings, conferences, and interviews will probably be with people older than you and you're going to look really foolish to them in a lot of cases.

Nothing wrong with a 3" tie at all - ditto lapels. It doesn't need to be full scale Tom Ford and it doesn't need to be Joel McHale stupid skinny.
post #22 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowsnuzzy View Post

Perhaps the lapels are too slim, that's something I'm not certain about. I'll talk to the tailor and see what he thinks too. As for the ties, it might be immature but I think it's worse when an 18 or 20 year old wears a full 3.5 inch tie. For some reason it reminds me of investment bankers... an older crowd. I'm sure in 10 or 20 years the slimmer ties will look stupid on me, but for now, as a young adult, I think the 2.5 inch style goes along with the whole idea of wearing slimmer cuts in everything from jeans to formal wear. 

Not looking for agreement necessarily as I'm sure I won't find it here, but I've gotten some great information regarding the customization of my next suit that will be put to use. That was my goal. 

At some point, the issue with the immature look is that your clothes get noticed more than you. Regardless of age, you want to be the guy who looks damn good and not have details of your outfit be a distraction. The super skinny lapel and skinny tie look calls a lot of attention to itself. I've never heard someone comment about how someone looks old because they wear a 3.5 inch tie which is a pretty normal tie width; I have heard many comments on skinny ties and most not so positive. If you must, look at something that is 3 to 3.25 inches wide. I've probably worn classic proportions since I was 18 and never had an issue with it (and frankly, at 18 looking a bit older has its advantages professionally and personally). Young people often think (mistakenly) that they have to do something to classic menswear to not look out of place in it when nothing could be further from the truth. That's a symptom that the clothes wear you rather than you wearing the clothes and you don't want that.
post #23 of 30
post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

frankly, at 18 looking a bit older has its advantages professionally and personally). Young people often think (mistakenly) that they have to do something to classic menswear to not look out of place in it when nothing could be further from the truth.

Word!
post #25 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post

Being 18, not wanting pleated pants is understandable. You're young and skinny, so go wild with your style, that's fine. I guess you don't want to dress like a mid-30s professional, and that's cool. Your body, style, and clothing needs will change a lot in the next 10 years, so anything you buy now is not going to be around so long anyway.

Since you listen to GQ, then you should heed their advice that the only shirt collar you need is the semi-spread. If your FIH knots are too small, then you've got cheap skimpy ties. Quality ties will produce an ample sized knot when tied FIH.

Otherwise, listen to Patrick. His advice is spot on.

A lot to think about here. I never considered my ties too skinny, and upon further inspection I realized most of my ties are, in fact, 3". I do agree that the super skinny ones look terrible, but I don't consider my ties to be in that category. 

 

For the collar, should I go the "traditional point collar" or Semi-spread? 

post #26 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowsnuzzy View Post

A lot to think about here. I never considered my ties too skinny, and upon further inspection I realized most of my ties are, in fact, 3". I do agree that the super skinny ones look terrible, but I don't consider my ties to be in that category. 

For the collar, should I go the "traditional point collar" or Semi-spread? 

I'd go with semi-spread. It looks better, lets the collar points be hidden by the lapels of your jacket and gives you more space to tie your tie knot (and point collars look really weird unbuttoned and without a tie IMO) whereas semi-spread does not look as bad in more casual contexts (I hate button down collars but many well dressed men do like them for casual settings). IMO 3 inch wide ties are on the skinny end but not obscenely so. Definitely much better than 2.5.
post #27 of 30
Yeah, essentially get any collar that the points go underneath the lapels of the jacket. Seeing points when then jacket is buttoned looks a bit slovenly.
post #28 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post

Being 18, not wanting pleated pants is understandable. You're young and skinny, so go wild with your style, that's fine. I guess you don't want to dress like a mid-30s professional, and that's cool. Your body, style, and clothing needs will change a lot in the next 10 years, so anything you buy now is not going to be around so long anyway.

Since you listen to GQ, then you should heed their advice that the only shirt collar you need is the semi-spread. If your FIH knots are too small, then you've got cheap skimpy ties. Quality ties will produce an ample sized knot when tied FIH.

Otherwise, listen to Patrick. His advice is spot on.

Also, you said if the knots are small then they are cheap ties. Doesn't the material play a huge role? Pretty much all my ties are from the tiebar (yes I know not the best quality but great value), and some of their cotton/linen ones I have make very small FIH knots while their fake grenadine silk ties make excellent sized knots. Is it even possible to get a good sized knot from a cotton tie? I was under the impression that the quality of a tie is determined by the stitching and material, both of which are not good, but decent, for tiebar. 

post #29 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowsnuzzy View Post

Also, you said if the knots are small then they are cheap ties. Doesn't the material play a huge role? Pretty much all my ties are from the tiebar (yes I know not the best quality but great value), and some of their cotton/linen ones I have make very small FIH knots while their fake grenadine silk ties make excellent sized knots. Is it even possible to get a good sized knot from a cotton tie? I was under the impression that the quality of a tie is determined by the stitching and material, both of which are not good, but decent, for tiebar. 

Quality plays a part, but so does the material. A think heavy silk will tend to make a bigger knot, and so will a wider tie or where the tie begins to widen.

I have cotton and linen ties that make a good sized knot.
post #30 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post

Quality plays a part, but so does the material. A think heavy silk will tend to make a bigger knot, and so will a wider tie or where the tie begins to widen.

I have cotton and linen ties that make a good sized knot.

This. Also some ties use more wool interlining which can also help make a thicker knot.
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