Incase ppl are still subscribed to this thread, here's an interview To take your own first example, how did this start? Did you already know one another?
Daniel: Well, it all started with a purchase. I bought peir's blazer from suspension point and as soon as I put my arm into the ribbed sleeve I was sold. The materials worked so well and the whole piece was cut so sharply. That detail was what made me write to peir. From there we spoke about some of her pieces and ideas for other projects.
Summertime: I finished school and asked peir if I could come and intern for her. Long shot, I didn't think she'd go for it but she did, which was super cool. She had some ideas for bags and an online shop so my background in industrial design would fit in. It took me two weeks to get organized and peir set me up with her assistant Andy, and was very hospitable with my accommodations. They were very down to earth, and it was all kind of unreal.
From there we worked on some bag designs and I got to work side by side with her making patterns which was definitely interesting. As well as see everything in real life, the materials, the cut etc...
She really thinks from a multi dimensional way, especially about the function of the fabric when making the garment and that's what I loved from the beginning.
I had to shelve the idea for the snowman pants to go work with Peir, but when I came back people were still asking me when I will relaunch it. I kind of felt the trousers needed more work. I thought maybe it could be cool to work on a collab with Peir. There was lots that I saw in her studio in london when I worked with her and felt she could take it further.
Peir: I received an email from Daniel, it was the first time a customer had emailed me personally and it was really great to hear direct feedback. We discussed some ideas, it was a really great exchange. Then he got in touch a few months later to do an internship with me....I was hesitant at first as I didn't want a customer working for me... But I liked how open and enthusiastic He is, so I got him on board. We had some cool outcomes. Overall it was fun and pretty effortless. Daniel approached me to work on a collaboration after his stint in london. We both thought it could be something fun to work on and see how it pans out, but I wanted to mull over the details first before going into it.I was wondering about the type of input/thoughts Peir Wu brought up concerning the original pair and how you guys came about to adding the new details/materials
Peir: Daniel sent me the trousers and I read the background story to it....I liked the fit of the trouser, which is a signature silhouette of Daniel, but also saw that it needed some reworking. there was a lot of traditional but unnecessary details for eg. How the jigger button flap was designed before, it was one little bit with the button hole sewn into another little flap of fabric / the double welt pocket with the pearl button... the elongated rise made it really elegant and dapper, kind of like these 1940s mens trousers which I really like and have a small personal collection of, and a tapered leg which made it look "tailored streetwear". The fabric was really beautiful, but I felt it could maybe do better with a dry wool so the lines would be cleaner, and silhouette stronger. I wanted it to be the perfect balance between Daniel's personal style, and my reductionist, hyper modern aesthetic.
I first experienced dry wools through a mill in Yorkshire and as well as some mills in japan. Dry wools are a signature of British wools, compared to Italian wools which are "wetter" and drapes more. The Japanese love British wools for that dry feel, and they make it into traditional but minimal English Gentlemen suit blazers. The Japanese mills' version of dry wools have a technical edge. sometimes they weave washi paper in, or they do a chemical treatment to the yarns..always creating a really interesting hand feel. I immediately saw that this would be the best fit for this project, and envisioned one that looks like a regular dry wool at first, but the hand feel would be subtly surprising.
Daniel really liked the elastic details from my ss14 collection, and I still felt that the idea could be explored in a different way in this project. It was a good challenge. Something simple, yet surprising. It's not overt, but makes you look twice. That was something I wanted to achieve in the overall first impression when someone first handles it.
So after processing all the ideas....we had a few discussions back and forth...it took a little longer due to the time difference and all these other projects between...we were both very happy with the final product, I took it for a test drive....it was super sweet. I then sent it to Daniel....
But also what was exciting to me, the process of designing a label for snowman. We shaped it in stages. In the end it was reduced to 3 dots. When Daniel showed it to me, the first reference that came to mind was the opening credits for Space Odyssey 2001 where the sun was rising, I thought that felt absolutely right.