excerpt from cathy horyn's appreciation of raf. i could be totally off, but I feel fairly certain this first sentence isn't true. can't imagine a 16-year-old, "fashion boy" or not, connecting with these clothes. but who knows, maybe cathy horyn knows a lot of 16-year-olds.
I feel fairly certain that 16-year-old fashion boys, and probably some 25-year-olds, were on their computers on Wednesday night, dying over these clothes. Somebody in the high fashion world was on their side, and that would be Mr. Simons. In 1996, 1997 and 1998, at the start of his fashion, he was on the side of an earlier generation, creating the updated version of the skinny black suit, among other things. His video “16, 17 How to Talk to Your Teen” remains, in my mind, one of the best visual expressions of the underlying hopes and attitudes in fashion.
He could always say more about fashion than almost any other designer, and he could say it with astonishing clarity and authority.
But not many designers have the drive, feeling and curiosity to appeal to two completely different generations.
To young men this season, Mr. Simons offered airy, unconstrained, versatile clothes (essentially a loose top or a collared shirt worn with the baby shorts and maybe layered with a blazer) that do not display the standard gender or luxury characteristics, and which have graphics that pulse with humor and life.
And to the fashion world, Mr. Simons offered a bounty of ideas — shapes, colors, proportions, textures — that others will greedily copy over the next few seasons.
feel like ann, dries, and yohji are all good but not great. all the collections are like extensions of previous work, which isn't a bad thing. it's good for designers to develop ideas over a longer period of time than a single season. but, as a result, there's no shock of the new, so to speak. i do really like the cream/beige looks from yohji and will be anxiously waiting to see some of the fabrics up close. I like a bunch of the footwear and coats from ann. with dries, the silhouettes and proportions are great as always, but the prints are too much for me. always happy to see new collections though. still plenty coming too!