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SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN - Page 4

post #46 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zapatiste View Post


so much on the last page all just looked the same, scrolling up and down quickly i couldn't tell the collections apart.


stop being so blasé


Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

umit!!

i like the v for vendetta mask thing going on


The masks are a stroke of genius, they manage to imbue the collection with fantasy while anchoring it in reality at the same time.
post #47 of 192
The video of the umit show is great. Turkish music playing as those masks walk toward you is perfect. Turkey is also kinda the ideal inspiration for east-meets-west. Thought it all worked really well together.

Z, there must be something you're excited about other than Yohji, no? I'm really curious to see if Boris stays on this slightly more polished course. I really liked fall and would love to see the grungy urban warrior costume stay away!
post #48 of 192
yup i think i mentioned to you there are a couple kids that were asked to go show in paris, though it's not on the schedule here. let's see how that pans out.

i thought ann ss13 was a disaster but she came back in full glory for fall so i have high hopes. dries as well.
really interested to see what marvielab does, summer collections are usually great. i almost went to the GBS show, it's private but they're so nice to let anyone in really, even blasé stragglers like myself. he's a bit eccentric and politicized but i am really fond of his work. and, in contrast to the article you linked, it really echoes with an earlier era placing the wearer there. same with PH which is on the hype train express.

boris had a very interesting and solid collection few shows back, it got a bit too caught up in the current mood for my tastes but who knows, he does weird things. speaking of fabrics and treatments, i think he did great work with the translucent leather, as disgusting as it was. maybe these fellows should look more to hire materials scientists.

goes without saying but CCP collection is on the horizon (if you ask when it comes out, "we're working on it" is the reply you get hehe) and i expect nothing but horrifying abstractions and nightmares materialized.

edit: i forgot to add missoni, i liked that one :-)
Edited by zapatiste - 6/26/13 at 6:47pm
post #49 of 192
post #50 of 192

All four of those guys would get crucified in WAYWT

 

edit - wait was that the point of the second video? patch[1].gif

post #51 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

The video of the umit show is great. Turkish music playing as those masks walk toward you is perfect. Turkey is also kinda the ideal inspiration for east-meets-west. Thought it all worked really well together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Umit direction is a natural fit for him and given current events, delivers some semblance of meaning beyond just formal shapes or shock value.

300px-Orientalism.jpg(* don't worry i don't think this work was such paradigm shift as it's portrayed but certain libs/academics i just thought of it seeing the show -- reminded me of old illustrations from euro painters having traveled eastward)

i still liked the collection, longer blazers with kurtas = what former user the shah, RIP, would have worn cool.gif
post #52 of 192
Umit is Turkish and grew up mostly in Istanbul. Do you think he's guilty of exoticism in this case? He's not really an outsider with a fantasy of the east.

Edit: not being argumentative, just wondering
Edited by pickpackpockpuck - 6/26/13 at 7:42pm
post #53 of 192
Would really depend on where in Istanbul and in what kind of family, so without assuming anything I don"t think he is, but I think those that embrace his fantasies and parade him [and good work] around like a peacock, along with those who consume, are. But then again that's the entirety of fashion, in a matter of speaking :-p

On the other hand, and this may be politicizing, but given the state of Turkish society, I think this may be a more a dream of memories past, and being an antiquarian myself, I appreciate it even more.

Either way, ignoring Said, I think this is a much better approach than, say, Thamanyah.

Edit: I know, you're too kind to be argumentative hehe ;-)
Edited by zapatiste - 6/26/13 at 9:07pm
post #54 of 192
Rick uhoh.gif

rickss14-41.jpg
post #55 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by zapatiste View Post

On the other hand, and this may be politicizing, but given the state of Turkish society, I think this may be a more a dream of memories past, and being an antiquarian myself, I appreciate it even more.

The video I watched of his show started with an interview where he talked about exactly this. It was a nostalgic, and probably romanticized, view of Turkey.

Rick was a snooze. I think it was about showing off the sneakers.
post #56 of 192
rick show was literally the 3 same designs shown over and over again
post #57 of 192

he's taking queues from Raf 

post #58 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

he's taking queues from Raf 

seems many are turning to short shorts for this paris showing

Ann's Vineyards, the show collection seemed nice, not as dramatic a return to her former self (as seen by my inexperienced eyes) as FW13 but better than what was shown this time last year. some of the candy stripes etc were silly but i guess that was her intent.

cutaways galore, hello pppp :-)
this first one is so victorian i love it

IMG_5590.jpgIMG_5610.jpgIMG_5582.jpg
post #59 of 192
Dries florals inlove.gif

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95


* last one is ss93 , really floral 20 years ago
post #60 of 192
excerpt from cathy horyn's appreciation of raf. i could be totally off, but I feel fairly certain this first sentence isn't true. can't imagine a 16-year-old, "fashion boy" or not, connecting with these clothes. but who knows, maybe cathy horyn knows a lot of 16-year-olds.
Quote:
I feel fairly certain that 16-year-old fashion boys, and probably some 25-year-olds, were on their computers on Wednesday night, dying over these clothes. Somebody in the high fashion world was on their side, and that would be Mr. Simons. In 1996, 1997 and 1998, at the start of his fashion, he was on the side of an earlier generation, creating the updated version of the skinny black suit, among other things. His video “16, 17 How to Talk to Your Teen” remains, in my mind, one of the best visual expressions of the underlying hopes and attitudes in fashion.

He could always say more about fashion than almost any other designer, and he could say it with astonishing clarity and authority.

But not many designers have the drive, feeling and curiosity to appeal to two completely different generations.

To young men this season, Mr. Simons offered airy, unconstrained, versatile clothes (essentially a loose top or a collared shirt worn with the baby shorts and maybe layered with a blazer) that do not display the standard gender or luxury characteristics, and which have graphics that pulse with humor and life.

And to the fashion world, Mr. Simons offered a bounty of ideas — shapes, colors, proportions, textures — that others will greedily copy over the next few seasons.
http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/06/27/raf-simons-who-do-we-respect/

feel like ann, dries, and yohji are all good but not great. all the collections are like extensions of previous work, which isn't a bad thing. it's good for designers to develop ideas over a longer period of time than a single season. but, as a result, there's no shock of the new, so to speak. i do really like the cream/beige looks from yohji and will be anxiously waiting to see some of the fabrics up close. I like a bunch of the footwear and coats from ann. with dries, the silhouettes and proportions are great as always, but the prints are too much for me. always happy to see new collections though. still plenty coming too!
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