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SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN - Page 3

post #31 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

some relevant reading. more interested in kolor after reading this. would love to have a look at some of it in person.
you should definitely check it out, some cool things to be found for sure. but i think the article wasn't that great at all (boil polyester into silk[y smooth] fabric = something new ... tell me more )

of course it runs tiny , and i think despite the claims it does portray a certain ideal era or whatever but still interesting nonetheless
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Fellow Linguist View Post

Ziggy Chen, Song for the Mute pics can be found here. Ziggy Chen seems cool from the pics so far.

manskirts, dramatic models, posing as dead, and to top it off, behaving how drunkards do as they stumble toward their makeshift bathrooms



more manskirts from Quantum


P.S. : KVA julius show was kinda lame though maybe i just find all these designers of that genre to be boring and repetitive tongue.gif

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post #32 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by zapatiste View Post

manskirts, dramatic models, posing as dead, and to top it off, behaving how drunkards do as they stumble toward their makeshift bathrooms


Don't forget the shoes! I can't even tell what's going on - is there a stripe around the upper, or is it a giant sole?
post #33 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by zapatiste View Post

you should definitely check it out, some cool things to be found for sure. but i think the article wasn't that great at all (boil polyester into silk[y smooth] fabric = something new ... tell me more )

well, yes, it could be if he's having a unique fabric woven for the purpose (edit: it says poly/silk blend boiled, not just poly, and it's not the boiled fabric that runs small, it's the manipulated nylon). just because it's boiled polyester doesn't mean it's just like comme's, in the same way not all wool gabardines are the same. certainly if he trained under yohji and junya he would be familiar with a pretty big range of unique fabrics too, and if he's interested in innovating he would presumably know enough to be able to do so genuinely. it's hard to judge without actually seeing anything, of course, but that's why I'd like to have a look in person smile.gif
Edited by pickpackpockpuck - 6/26/13 at 8:38am
post #34 of 192
^ agreed, and i just meant in general the sizing seemed tiny (as with most japanese stuff i;ve tried, not due to fabrics/treatments)

* * *

at least his own outfit was kinda cool

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i like these hackermann

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Edited by zapatiste - 6/26/13 at 10:34am
post #35 of 192
i don't even know where i could find kolor in nyc to look at. maybe i'm just drawing a blank. hlorenzo carries it, but that doesn't help me much.

atelier actually carried some of the ackermann men's. i wonder if they intend to stock him for spring 2014. that would be interesting to see. bright loud prints in a corner surrounded by a sea of black. hah (not the place, but z, you should call them to see what yohji they have left on sale. they had a bunch at 70% off not long ago)
post #36 of 192
have you tried If ? they at leaset used to stock it ... and DSM did so going by that maybe you should try the ny store when it opens later on ...

i think atelier will have them , but nobody will see the horrifying contrast of colors because of the move to the new place ... it's all online and by appt only, going the way of modern tekmology with the warehouse approach !

i actually didn't like their buys for ss13 which, to me, was all about exploring crazy prints in fun colors (although davidlee et al will disagree completely hehe). i've tried emailing the boutique in tokyo about one of the jackets that nobody picked up as far as i know, they won't reply :-( i have to give em a call i guess when it's midnight here hehe
post #37 of 192
Thread Starter 

MILAN MENSWEAR
24/06




UMIT BENAN











MILAN MENSWEAR
25/06




Z ZEGNA







post #38 of 192
I think plain black socks were the only thing in Raf ss14 I didn't hate.
post #39 of 192
post #40 of 192
umit!!

i like the v for vendetta mask thing going on
post #41 of 192

Umit always good.

 

What's with raf and shorts? isn't this the 3rd or 4th season with a disproportionate amount of them?

post #42 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTribe View Post

I think plain black socks were the only thing in Raf ss14 I didn't hate.

What didn't you like about Raf? I don't think it was his all-time high or anything, but it seems well executed and in line with his recent offerings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

Umit always good.

What's with raf and shorts? isn't this the 3rd or 4th season with a disproportionate amount of them?

To me it seems like a callback to the school uniform inspired stuff he did in the 90s.

Or maybe it's just a token concession to the fact that it's a spring/summer show.
post #43 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Fellow Linguist View Post

What didn't you like about Raf? I don't think it was his all-time high or anything, but it seems well executed and in line with his recent offerings.

And the square toes.

I was the first to defend (still do) the last collection but this I don't know man. There are some interesting stuff in there, stuff that calls back to the early collections but it's marred by all the flashy colors and the prints and... Not to beat a dead horse but this is so slick to the point of being sterile, maybe that's the industrial designer in Raf. On the topic of shorts and school uniforms, Fall 2012 (which I grew to really like) offered a much more convincing interpretation.
post #44 of 192
raf seems to have stopped caring about his own line some while ago
just seems like children playing dressup in boxers and parents' shirts

so much on the last page all just looked the same, scrolling up and down quickly i couldn't tell the collections apart.

i hear plockhov holds promise this year
post #45 of 192

Umit direction is a natural fit for him and given current events, delivers some semblance of meaning beyond just formal shapes or shock value.

 

the chunky loafers are kinda fugly, but I like the idea. some kind of velvet slipper would be cool with that tunic-under-suit thing.

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