SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN



diniro said:

Jil ss14 is sick imo I don't get the hate. Also wish I was tall so I can just wear all margaret howell.

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It just feels like a mishmash of ideas --none of which are fully developed -- pulling the collection in different directions, she's been pushing prints for the last few collections and it always feel like an afterthought.

pickpackpockpuck said:

I really liked what Pilati did for Zegna. Like sipang said, it's a good fit. He was subversive in a subtle way. The tailoring here, for instance, is really cool and closer in its DNA to something like Damir than traditional Italian whatever. (Just for fun, imagine the look in black with frayed edges.) I'm not expecting anything like the YSL ss10 collection anytime soon, but I do have hope that Pilati will bust out something interesting in the future.

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It's in no way not a radical departure from the previous Zegna collections but it's great to see Pilati bringing the subtlety and refinement (and color palette) from his best YSL years (mainly FW07, SS08, FW10, SS11, FW11, SS12) to the label.

pickpackpockpuck said:

Ackermann did menswear before, I think just as a one-off thing when he was a special guest at Pitti. But if that's any indication, I'm not really super excited for his men's collection this year. It was exactly what you'd expect: iridescent flowing buttonless wrapped everything. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-HACKERMAN/. I think that looks great on women, but it felt a little old (and sleazy) for me on the guys. Maybe just me though.

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Hackermann = Damir x Hefner

Hackermann = Damir x Hefner

MH appeals to the uniformist in me. Also, I wish it was easier to find pants cut like this

Balenciaga too busy suing to put out a menswear collection?

futuresailors said:

Balenciaga too busy suing to put out a menswear collection?

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It's never been on the runway

I bought a ton of MHL one year and none of it fit me--it felt like everything was falling off of my body, and not in a cool, slouchy, way, but in a six-sizes-too-big kind of way. I wish I was big and tall like sipang so that I could wear all Margaret Howell all day. Same with Oliver Spencer, it's pretty tragic.

Kolor and Zegna are both great. Obviously, everyone's doing prints these days, but those two shows hit the sweet spot for the right mix of prints.

The first part of Tim Blanks's review of the E Zegna show: "There was something so languid about Stefano Pilati's first outfit in his debut show for Ermenegildo Zegna today—the casually closed, double-breasted jacket, the light topcoat—that it could only feel like a manifesto. Almost confrontational, in fact. The suits that followed were broken—jackets and trousers not matched, reflecting Pilati's conviction that a man whose closet is filled with suits isn't about to wear them as convention dictates. The proportions—the long jacket, the placement of the notch on the lapel, the high button—were equally discombobulating. But that is something that Pilati has always excelled at. He reconceptualizes the familiar. So he rolled and tied and slung the heart of Zegna into something that married today and tomorrow." http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014MEN-EZEGNA

I'm going to have to go against the grain and start some controversy. I didn't like mhl.
I like the idea of smocks and trousers but more in a raeburn/techy way. That looks like Eddie Bauer (sub shah)

I'm going to have to go against the grain and start some controversy. I didn't like mhl.
I like the idea of smocks and trousers but more in a raeburn/techy way. That looks like Eddie Bauer (sub shah)

Lol , the quadruple post shows how controversial I am

pickpackpockpuck said:

Glad people liked Margaret Howell. I thought it was nice too. McQueen and Jil both make me want some super baggy shorts. Lee Roach was ok. I get that he's got his signatures (strap/buckle closure on blazer - check!), but I'm already getting a little bored with it. Kolor was great. It really is super Dries-y though in a way that I can't help but feel is just unoriginal. That said, I still like the way it looks.

I really liked what Pilati did for Zegna. Like sipang said, it's a good fit. He was subversive in a subtle way. The tailoring here, for instance, is really cool and closer in its DNA to something like Damir than traditional Italian whatever. (Just for fun, imagine the look in black with frayed edges.) I'm not expecting anything like the YSL ss10 collection anytime soon, but I do have hope that Pilati will bust out something interesting in the future.




Ackermann did menswear before, I think just as a one-off thing when he was a special guest at Pitti. But if that's any indication, I'm not really super excited for his men's collection this year. It was exactly what you'd expect: iridescent flowing buttonless wrapped everything. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-HACKERMAN/. I think that looks great on women, but it felt a little old (and sleazy) for me on the guys. Maybe just me though.

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EZegna and ZZegna by far the best collections for me

I think Pilati should try it with a own label and hit the avant garde road!
Remember the collection he did for atelier NY

KingJulien said:

It's never been on the runway

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It's also going to be in Paris.

Ziggy Chen, Song for the Mute pics can be found here. Ziggy Chen seems cool from the pics so far.

some relevant reading. more interested in kolor after reading this. would love to have a look at some of it in person.

"One designer who has always exemplified this East-West tradeoff in his work is Junichi Abe, the man behind the brand Kolor, Pitti Uomo’s guest menswear designer for SS14. Abe’s schooling at BUNKA college in Tokyo and the years spent behind the scenes at Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe have distilled an inherent sense of the avant-garde in his work – albeit one that shines through in construction and fabrication rather than superfluous embellishment and wild asymmetries.
...
"'His design and his concept of fashion is about the design itself – he’s not one of these designers who draws his inspiration from an era, or a feather or an object or a movement. It’s all about how he starts developing fabrics. He makes the fabrics himself, he develops new ways of putting two threads together that don’t belong together. He manipulates polyester into silk, boils it, to make totally new textures”. An ice blue mackintosh that billowed out behind its wearer highlighted this technique, as did blazers ruched down the front and sleeves. “His work is all in the details. Like the nylon trench”, continued Hetta “it’s a fabric that is never used for clothing, and it is shrunk from three times the size to create the scrunched effect. For me as a stylist today, I see there are some designers who are more like stylists – picking a reference from an era and a look then mixing it and matching it together. What Junichi does is very ‘inclusive’ design – maybe you don’t need to wear a total look of Kolor, but I think men out there just want to see something that isn’t forcing you into an era or an idea or a mood, but something that is technically well done as a garment.'"
http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/2820/Kolor_at_Pitti_Uomo_2014