thought siki was overall, bad. coppens kind of fell off imo. it's not bad at all but not nearly as good as the last few. admittedly probably best use of extraneous/unnecessary zippers ever for a relatively 'minimal designer.
i remember clicking through geller quickly and being surprised by how much I liked it.
I agree it was a deliberate reference. the same way the straps toward the end reference lang, or the metallics in fall. (don't know if it matters, but he never actually worked under lang. he'd already left the company by the time siki arrived.)
Props for the oppressive camera framing tying in with the prison narrative. Sandals clapping sounds > soundtrack.
Feel like a more tightly edited show would've been better, can't say I really like the collection but it's still more interesting than most of the rest of NYFW. Wouldn't mind some detail pics, all white outfits are always difficult to assess from afar.
It's been pointed out (can't remember where) but the show also prompted one of the stupidest review I've ever read