It just feels like a mishmash of ideas --none of which are fully developed -- pulling the collection in different directions, she's been pushing prints for the last few collections and it always feel like an afterthought.
I really liked what Pilati did for Zegna. Like sipang said, it's a good fit. He was subversive in a subtle way. The tailoring here, for instance, is really cool and closer in its DNA to something like Damir than traditional Italian whatever. (Just for fun, imagine the look in black with frayed edges.) I'm not expecting anything like the YSL ss10 collection anytime soon, but I do have hope that Pilati will bust out something interesting in the future.
It's in no way not a radical departure from the previous Zegna collections but it's great to see Pilati bringing the subtlety and refinement (and color palette) from his best YSL years (mainly FW07, SS08, FW10, SS11, FW11, SS12) to the label.
Ackermann did menswear before, I think just as a one-off thing when he was a special guest at Pitti. But if that's any indication, I'm not really super excited for his men's collection this year. It was exactly what you'd expect: iridescent flowing buttonless wrapped everything. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-HACKERMAN/. I think that looks great on women, but it felt a little old (and sleazy) for me on the guys. Maybe just me though.
Hackermann = Damir x Hefner