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SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN - Page 9

post #121 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

Garmento on Pilati
 
Thanks for that article pppp. Pilati deserves the praise imo. He's got a cool take on classic stuff. I had to go back and look at a few of those older YSL collections. I'm a fan of his new Zegna stuff. Garmento mag-a-blog is pretty good, too. Spend a good half hour reading other articles.
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

SLP was truly awful and very good, best SLP collection to date.

Hopefully, we'll witness a progressive Thom Browneisation (intentional or not) with the next few collections.

 

What parts did you think were awful and what good? I'm all for mods & rockers, but it was really cartoonish to me -- like Glee meets Grease. The casting was freaky, I'll give him that. 

 

 

 

 

 

p.s. I always think I should qualify my comments with "I have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to fashion" since I just go by what I see as an occasional fashion dabbler.

post #122 of 192
My favorite looks from my top 5 collection for Spring 2014

Prada
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This is the most "street" influenced collection I have seen from Prada. Relaxed silhouettes with interesting Hawaiian inspired prints reminiscent of the 50s.

Marc Jacobs
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Very easy pieces with relaxed and classic shapes, young and vibrant prints and colors

Walter Van Beirendonck
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My favorite design idea of the whole season are the jackets with the "interior of a room" graphic print. Great use of graphics and asymmetry

Junya Watanabe
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More light and fresh and still very Junya with cool manbags

Raf Simmons
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Very confident new proposal of proportions for men with cool colors and graphics. My favorite pieces of the season are the oversized, loose, graphic printed shirts which will be fun and comfortable to wear during a hot summer
post #123 of 192

cont'd

 

 

 

 

Jonathan Saunders

 

 

 

 

Jil era Raf as interpreted by London Fashion Week

 

 

 

Julien David

 

 

 

 

Tumblr-wave clothing for party boys that don't want to go full on Jeremy Scott or KTZ.  Feels current but not relevant.  I would like to see if I can find some for myself - most likely just a tee shirt but ideally some patterned trousers.

 

 

 

Junya Watanabe

 

 

 

 

 

More of the same of the past 3 years.  I think things have gotten overly detailed though. Conservative buys will sell well but the interesting reversible jackets will be prohibitively expensive.  Admittedly, I'm just a sucker for 2008-2010. Lastly, I really disliked the styling so it made it hard to pick any full looks I like (of which there were none, so I included ones with specific pieces I liked). Not a fan at all of any of the bags, but I imagine most people won't agree with me there.  The green suede boots are perfect.

 

 

 

Kenzo

 

 

 

I like most of it in isolation, but I can't see anybody I know wearing (or more specifically, wanting to wear) any of it.  I realize this isn't a traditional criteria for judging a fashion show, but I'm a consumer of clothes, so I'm writing these as such.

 

 

 

Kolor

 

 

 

 

I love the peacefulness that there is to these clothes.  They sort of seem like they're for an older clientele, although I can't explain why.  I wish I was able to handle more than just what If picks up.  The sandals are great.

 

 

 

KTZ

 


 

 

What the people who used to wear Givenchy will wear instead.  (My selections not indicative of this, so view the whole collection.)

post #124 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

Great contributions sip-san; really well worded.

Can we have a "Sipang's thoughts on helmut Lang versus raf Simons" segment?
I've always thought the two were similar in regards to relaxedness and techy fabrics. (Early raf)
Whatcha think?


My Helmut Lang knowledge is very limited but u asked so... bullshiting ahead

HL had a pretty big influence on young Raf but it's not so much about specific features as it is about the way to 'approach' fashion (obviously this will/can result in similarities down the line). HL (and Margiela (and others but let's keep this relevant to the topic at hand)) expanded the playing field, sort of. 90s minimalism promoted a concept of simplicity (in reaction to the excess of the 80s) that was as much about clean lines and bare designs as it was about introducing casual (unadorned by nature) and sportswear-inspired elements (functional and pragmatic by nature, the techy fabrics were a key ingredient of 90s minimalism: Jil, Prada,...) and mixing them with formal/fashion pieces. Jeans, tshirts, basics were elevated to fashion items and in turn fashion became more down-to-earth. What sets HL apart though is that he merely used this new language, this blurring of the lines, as a tool to explore and present themes of sensuality, fragility, aggression and the tension between the two (notions that would be central tof Raf's work a couple years later): the fabrics (leather, nylon, plastic), the sheer tops and cut outs exposing the skin, the bondage elements, the military inspired items; there's something of a contained menace coexisting with vulnerability (a sheer sleeveless shirt, an almost evanescent coat pit against a chainmail butcher apron or a bulletproof-like vest). It's been qualified as punk although Helmut himself found the term inadequate, in any case the ambiguous tone that ran through the collections was cultivated down to the choice of models ( [...]but there was also something "broken" about him, a word once used to describe what he wanted his male models to look like--interesting in a slightly fucked-up way. ) All of this to say that, from that point on, fashion stopped being some disconnected and artificial world of glamour, supermodels, tans and fakes smiles and became something real that you (Raf) could relate to, something with humanity.

Raf built on those foundations and added his own layers of exploration of teenage isolation/teenage tribes (and the cultural references that shape them).


Thank you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

SLP was truly awful and very good, best SLP collection to date.

Hopefully, we'll witness a progressive Thom Browneisation (intentional or not) with the next few collections.

What parts did you think were awful and what good? I'm all for mods & rockers, but it was really cartoonish to me -- like Glee meets Grease. The casting was freaky, I'll give him that.


I think it was all awful but I liked it. To be clear, I'm only talking about the show as spectacle (hence Thom Browne), I initially dismissed it as yet another offensively unimaginative regurgitation but it grew on me. I absolutely don't give a fuck about the label so I'm just here to be entertained and entertained I was. As you said, it was cartoonish, there was a grotesque element to it all, a weird queasy vibe that I found a bit arresting (and yes, it's probably 90% thanks to the casting) and that was something new for a SLP show. That's all.
post #125 of 192
Thread Starter 

PARIS MENSWEAR
28/06







JUNYA WATANABE

Same collection calls for same criticism, I just wish he'd put his gear fetishism to the service of richer or less literal fantasies, something closer to his rtw output. No offense to german hikers.
That being said, I like the way is patchwork construction and patches of colors and fabrics create images of geometric abstraction.





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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

Not feeling the wisterias appliqués (or whatever they are) at all, or most of the black and white looks for that matter. Found myself liking the blue greys outfits the most, bit of an heritage workwear vibe.







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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Bah ok bof





JUUN .J

This gorilla arms bullshit seriously needs to stop, it was already ugly three years ago and time hasn't been kind. (Also applies to Damir, we'll get to that later). The coats below are pretty much the only thing that works.










KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Much better than the Dior Homme effort. Kinda like the riff on sportswear and how that kangaroo zip acts as some sort of branding. Green is nice. The sad thing with KVA is that you can see that the guy has some interesting ideas but most of the time they either get lost in incohesive and all over the place collections otherwise full of dull or incongruous designs (like those stupid trench coats, see link) or they get repeated ad nauseam and lose most of their appeal (see DH). I think.







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COMME DES GARCONS HOMME PLUS

Layering as narrative. Best.







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post #126 of 192
Great stuff as usual Sipang. To say you elevate this thread is an understatement; to say you elevate this side of the forum is more to the point.

Good call on KVA, too. I'm a DH guy, and felt ehh about the collection, however, KVA's natural inclination seems to nail the sportswear. I'm feeling the green.
post #127 of 192
yes kris! i was quite happy to see him move past that workwear stage....phew
i like all the nods to sportwear and the silhouettes.

i do agree that he flip flops a lot. military to workwear (kinda hand in hand) and sportwear.
post #128 of 192
This is from the review of DH FW13 on style.com, and I think it's half of what characterizes KVA.

"Van Assche was adamant about his own changes to the house DNA. He swatted away the description 'skinny,' the constant tag of Slimane's Dior Homme; in its place he offered 'sporty.'" http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2013MEN-CDMEN

The other half might be "minimal" or something like that. It's all very pared down. There's one detail or embellishment or idea that acts as the focus and is repeated over and over (often ad nauseam, like sipang said). The soundtrack to every show should be Philip Glass: a sequence mutating over the course of numerous repetitions. When it works it can be great, but when it doesn't the volume of repetitions feels empty and numbing.
post #129 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

Great stuff as usual Sipang. To say you elevate this thread is an understatement; to say you elevate this side of the forum is more to the point.

Good call on KVA, too. I'm a DH guy, and felt ehh about the collection, however, KVA's natural inclination seems to nail the sportswear. I'm feeling the green.


Ha, well thank you, glad you enjoy !

(but please don't feed my ego, I have enough delusions of grandeur as it is)




PARIS MENSWEAR
29/06






TILLMAN LAUTERBACH

Nothing groundbreaking but a really solid collection. Good driesian (too driesian ?) volumes and tailoring, muted color palette, sensible layering and interesting fabrics.








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BORIS BIDJAN SABERI

Great (I'm biased towards anything involving some kind of utility vest-like contraption). I like the oblique (and yet truer, think about it) approach to the collection nautical theme referenced through fabrics, colors, minute details and construction.














MIHARAYASUHIRO

Monochromatic layering is best layering. Wish the whole collection had those voluminous trousers. Phoenix embroidery kinda kitsch.
Props to Tim Blanks for using "ass-paralyzingly expensive" in his review.





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DAMIR DOMA

(Pictures selected at random. )

Why you do me like that DD ? I guess for most this is just the new high point of Damir's ongoing journey to mainstream mediocrity / final nail in the coffin; for my part, I liked the last few collections but this is an unmitigated mess. It looks like an aggregate of shitty year old trends with some Raf bits thrown in for good measure. The most baffling thing is the exaggerated/gorilla arms tops, it's been done to death, it looks awful and yet here they are in all their glorious shittiness. Doesn't make sense. Absolute step back.












HERMES

Perfek. Helping rich ppl not to look like complete douchebags since 1988.








Edited by sipang - 7/23/13 at 8:38pm
post #130 of 192

I've been really digging the Julius s/s 2014...

 

 

post #131 of 192

 

Have never before considered owning white pants, but those look perfect.

post #132 of 192
Thread Starter 

PARIS MENSWEAR
30/06







LANVIN

Lanvin has been gravitating more and more towards a looser and pared-down silhouette since last spring and this is their most convincing effort yet. The slim fitting looks appear uncomfortably out of place in comparison. +1 for surreptitiously trying to bring back fanny packs.



















CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE

Gonna have to strongly disagree with the 4est on this one, the collection was a home run. I don't see it as an afterthought, if anything Lemaire has been incredibly consistent with his collections year after year, it always goes back to this soft utilitarian vibe, basics made noble through details and volumes (both of oriental inspiration mostly). Feels like his infatuation with the 80s is becoming less palpable also (though some Memphis stuff in the background wouldn't really look out of place, maybe it's the overall color palette -- after Luigi Ghirri's photographs).
Hop, full collection.















post #133 of 192

really really liking lemaire

 

that black parka drool.gif

post #134 of 192
those yellow pleated pants...
post #135 of 192

Big fan of both of these:

 

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