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SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN

post #1 of 192
Thread Starter 

LONDON MENSWEAR 15/06 -18/06


Done


MILAN MENSWEAR 22/06 - 25/06



22/06 - 10:30 • Ermenegildo Zegna
22/06 - 16:00 • Jil Sander

23/06 - 09:30 • Bottega Veneta
23/06 - 10:30 • Trussardi
23/06 - 11:30 • Iceberg
23/06 - 13:45 • Marni
23/06 - 14:00 • Calvin Klein Collection
23/06 - 15:00 • Vivienne Westwood
23/06 - 16:00 • Missoni
23/06 - 18:00 • Prada
23/06 - 19:00 • Moncler Gamme Bleu

24/06 - 14:00 • Etro
24/06 - 17:00 • Umit Benan

25/06 - 10:30 • Giorgio Armani
25/06- 12:30 • Z Zegna




PARIS MENSWEAR 26/06 - 30/06



26/06 - 12:30 • Julius
26/06 - 13:30 • Julien David
26/06 - 15:30 • John Lawrence Sullivan
26/06 - 16:30 • Walter Van Beirendonck
26/06 - 18:30 • Haider Ackermann
26/06 - 20:30 • Raf Simons

27/06 - 11:30 • Issey Miyake
27/06 - 12:30 • Rick Owens
27/06 - 12:45 • Jean Paul Gaultier
27/06 - 16:30 • 22/4 - Menswear
27/06 - 17:30 • Yohji Yamamoto
27/06 - 19:00 • Dries Van Noten

28/06 - 10:00 • Junya Watanabe
28/06 - 11:00 • Ann Demeulemeester
28/06 - 12:00 • Maison Martin Margiela
28/06 - 12:45 • ACNE
28/06 - 13:00 • Henrik Vibskov
28/06 - 14:00 • Juun J
28/06 - 15:00 • KRISVANASSCHE
28/06 - 16:00 • Cerruti
28/06 - 17:00 • Comme des Garcons
28/06 - 18:00 • Givenchy

29/06 - 11:00 • Atelier Gustavolins
29/06 - 11:45 • Sacai
29/06 - 12:00 • Songzio
29/06 - 13:00 • Tillman Lauterbach
29/06 - 15:00 • Dior Homme
29/06 - 16:00 • Boris Bidjan Saberi
29/06 - 18:00 • Miharayasuhiro
29/06 - 19:00 • Damir Doma
29/06 - 20:00 • Hermes

30/06 - 11:00 • Lanvin
30/06 - 12:00 • Agnés B
30/06 - 12:45 • Christophe Lemaire
30/06 - 18:00 • Thom Browne
30/06 - 20:00 • Saint Laurent
post #2 of 192
Thread Starter 

LONDON MENSWEAR
15/06 -18/06


LONDON--Looking past the awful shit, the Prorsum biting Prada (nice color blocking tho), the dummies bandwagoning the Givenchy trainwreck, the generic #menswears, the browear Damir-lite, the Tom Ford, the "let's add some random piece of fabric on a shoddy design and call it avant-garde" , . .





ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Not a fan of the prints overload mid-show or some of the weird tailoring after that but those first few layered looks are great.









CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN









LEE ROACH









SHAUN SAMSON

The collection as a whole is pretty shit, I save the overalls, the oversize and the platform vans.







MARTINE ROSE

Never disappoints.








OLIVER SPENCER








E. TAUTZ

Can't help but feel the collection is somewhat connected to the #menswear appropriation of experimental layering and ethnic garments but the E.Tautz guy looks like he's having fun with his last few collections










MARGARET HOWELL

Great volumes & color palette. Boring done great. SW&D needs more Margaret Howell.








Edited by sipang - 6/20/13 at 9:05pm
post #3 of 192
I like some of the Christopher Raeburn stuff. The Margaret Howell is as you say boring, done well. Oliver Spencer is completely inoffensive, but could be from last year or the year before.
post #4 of 192
Is that a Haider Ackermann menswear presentation I see on the Paris schedule?drool.gif
post #5 of 192
Thread Starter 
yes yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by WWD View Post

Look who’s joining men’s fashion week in Paris: Haider Ackermann. The Antwerp, Belgium-based designer, who won acclaim for a one-season foray into men’s wear in 2010, is to present what he’s calling a “men wardrobe” for spring 2014 on June 26. Details about the presentation format could not immediately be learned.

Ackermann unveiled his first men’s designs during a coed runway show at Pitti W in Florence, and the collection was immediately picked up by a small group of international retailers, including Barneys New York. The Colombian-born talent founded his label in 2001 and is known for sensual draping and nomadic silhouettes.
post #6 of 192

Like the Margaret Howell. Giving me a 90s vibe (nttawwt).

post #7 of 192

The funny thing about astrid anderson/man/jw anderson is how... boring it is.

 

 

 

The spencer hart collection had some nice moments. nothing groundbreaking, but a pleasant summation of the casual-loose aesthetic floating around the fashion world right now. Would fit nicely in the 'blazers and suits' thread:

 

http://thefashionisto.com/spencer-hart-springsummer-2014-london-collections-men/

 

 

post #8 of 192
Thread Starter 

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
19/06 - 20/06





KOLOR

Dries vibes










post #9 of 192
Thread Starter 

MILAN MENSWEAR
22/06





ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Good fit for Pilati



















JIL SANDER

As unfair as it might be, Raf probably ruined Jil by Jil for me. Retrospectively, I think her comeback collection might've been my favorite. Most of it just looks underwhelming and a bit dull and confused, the prints feel out of place. The shorts are great.













post #10 of 192
quite liked some of that Zegna
post #11 of 192
Thanks for the great posts / thread Sipang. You're right about Kolor aping Dries, but Kolor's pricepoint doesn't make that a very appealing idea. I like some of the prints (the paint splatter thing) from Oliver Spencer but the show as a whole is pretty uninspiring.
post #12 of 192
Jil ss14 is sick imo I don't get the hate. Also wish I was tall so I can just wear all margaret howell.
post #13 of 192

I'm curious what was done to the leather at the jil show. If you watch the video it looks like it has been bonded or something; it barely creases when the guy walks.

post #14 of 192
Glad people liked Margaret Howell. I thought it was nice too. McQueen and Jil both make me want some super baggy shorts. Lee Roach was ok. I get that he's got his signatures (strap/buckle closure on blazer - check!), but I'm already getting a little bored with it. Kolor was great. It really is super Dries-y though in a way that I can't help but feel is just unoriginal. That said, I still like the way it looks.

I really liked what Pilati did for Zegna. Like sipang said, it's a good fit. He was subversive in a subtle way. The tailoring here, for instance, is really cool and closer in its DNA to something like Damir than traditional Italian whatever. (Just for fun, imagine the look in black with frayed edges.) I'm not expecting anything like the YSL ss10 collection anytime soon, but I do have hope that Pilati will bust out something interesting in the future.




Ackermann did menswear before, I think just as a one-off thing when he was a special guest at Pitti. But if that's any indication, I'm not really super excited for his men's collection this year. It was exactly what you'd expect: iridescent flowing buttonless wrapped everything. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-HACKERMAN/. I think that looks great on women, but it felt a little old (and sleazy) for me on the guys. Maybe just me though.
post #15 of 192
Love the Zegna. Not feeling Jil, and I'm usually a fan. Margaret Howell looks awesome, but I think all the positive comments biased me. smile.gif
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